Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition |
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These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment. PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book. |
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Posted By: GreenPaddy You could add a remote humidistat to the existing fan, maybe something like this...
https://crwltd.co.uk/extractor-fan-inline-bathroom-run-on-timer--humidity-sensor-switch-socket-2335-p.asp?
Posted By: GreenPaddy What is it you're trying to control? RH in the bathroom, at the window...You might want to be able to de-activated it so it can't come on at night, as say room temp falls, and RH rises. I think I might just put a timer on it, and be done with it. Increase the time period if you see a bit more cond. Off between 10pm and 7am, or what ever.
Posted By: GreenPaddy That doesn't really help with the main thrust of your question - how to not repeat this in the house.
Posted By: GreenPaddy As others have said, you have a cold bridge at the foot of the window. It may be resting on the metal cill, and bridging the cavity. So metal cill from inside to out, and possibly cold air directly underneath from cavity. Is the cill thermally broken? Is the unit sitting on insulation? Door thresholds and floor based window cill details are often a problem.
Posted By: chrisduncanFor when we get to building the new house I need to know what insulation to put under the cills. I've had a look at some previous discussions on GBF. We will be having sliding doors 2300mm high. Not sure yet if they'll be double or triple glazed.
Is Compacfoam 200 still the go-to solution?
Posted By: WillInAberdeenIs that an air leakage path as well as a drainage path?
Posted By: chrisduncan
Bifold frame sits on 36mm plywood packers on top of concrete blocks. It didn't occur to me that I might be creating a cold bridge by doing so. The plywood supports both front and back of the cill so bridges the thermal break. Arghh.
Well at least I know what not to do in the main house!. I think I might have thought that plywood wasn't enough of a thermal conductor to matter very much.
http:///newforum/extensions/InlineImages/image.php?AttachmentID=7749" alt="bifold cill.png" >
Posted By: lineweightSo, can't it just be designed so that the thermal break in the frame sill can be aligned with the insulation layer in the wall below?
Posted By: lineweight(b) Yes, I see that in principle, although you could argue this is an issue even if you bridge the leaves further down somehow.
My understanding was that stuff like compacfoam is only strong in compression, not designed to span across gaps, but I might be wrong.
perhaps I should look at PH bifolds, if such a thing exists
Posted By: LFInsulators - strong - may be of use ?
permali glass was used in cryogenic plant design and was really tough stuff.
google says - https://permalideho.co.uk/products/
We used like in these photos
https://www.rilco.com/products/isolation-blocks-additional-components
Sindanyo block was another similar one.
I was only doing heat leak calcs not mechanical and it was nearly 30 years ago.