Knotting , primer, u/c and satinwood prior to glazing.

Three fixings each side, good ones, two in the head, none in the sill

Hope there is a fall on the sill and glass rebate, use drained bead for the bottom one.

Butyl mastic putty to set glass - presumably white

General purpose silicone to frame/brickwork outside painters mate inside.

I never paint sill behind the drip so that it can breathe out any moisture - very old school on that but saves the sill in the long run

Foaming wood glue to joints

I've just installed new timber windows and doors throughout my house. I opted to use fixing straps instead of drilling and fixing through the frames. The straps are screwed to the outside of the window frame and then I just used masonry screws into existing masonry wall and woodscrews into the timber frame.

My fixings were as per the supplier screwed in about between 100-150mm from each corner and I have then spaced the straps at 400mm centres around the rest of the frame.

Where frames are connected between say a door and sidelight I've screwed and used either a silicon sealant, or a sealant/adhesive. Where I haven't needed to screw together, i.e. horizontal connection, I've just used sealant/adhesive. On all these connections, both internal and external I have an addition painted wood bead that laps the joint and hides the sealant/adhesive.

Remember to use packers at the bottom and side corners and just top side corners and below any mullions.

Sealant and foam wise, I've used Soudal SWS window system which comprises Soudal 215LM external sealant, SWS Expanding Foam to fill between frame and wall, and Soudal Acrylic Acrylirub SWS paintable internal sealant. The sealant adhesive I'm using is Soudal Fix-All Flexi

Picture attached of fixing in timber frame I'll also post additional photo in masonry.

Excellent comments and food for thought.

How does the sill fit to the blockwork then if no fixings Tony? Just use the brackets as above and fix to the brickwork or is the frame screwed downwards into the sill? Or screw up through the sill into the frame? So essentially the frame and sill form one big frame?

This frame (sill and frame) then gets fixed high level above and sides only so the sill essentially rests on the blockwork/DPM thereafter?

There is a fall on the sill but not on the frame, I'll get one added for good measure

Timber now all knotted with Zinsser BIN

Oil based primer next...

Is there anything that shows evidence of oil based versus water based versus linseed paint etc?

Or is it all just branding?

So where you've mentioned primer, undercoat and satinwood are these all oil or water based?

Or go with linseed based which according to one supplier mentioned above there is no need for undercoat or primer....

Posted By: VictorianecoIs there anything that shows evidence of oil based versus water based versus linseed paint etc?

Or is it all just branding?

It's certainly not all branding - it's more vapour permeable. Linseed oil was used for centuries before the advent of synthetic paints, ether with natural pigments or with lead. The use of lead has now ended, of course.

With the quest to reduce VOCs and dissatisfaction with the durability of 'modern' paints (rather than peeling and cracking, linseed deteriorates gracefully over longer timescales) it's seen a resurgence, though it's never gone away entirely.

More recently it's been used by English Heritage (https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/brodsworth-hall-and-gardens/caring-for-brodsworth/#), for the Chateau of Versailles (http://www.iiconservation.org/node/6496) and others.

The main consideration is drying time; if you're painting in a workshop prior to fitting then probably around 48 hours per coat. If painting outside it's best undertaken in summer. But see the individual manufacturers for guidelines & tips on technique - it's much runnier and applied thinner than modern paints, but covers more per litre.

I’ve used Jotun Demidekk ultimate windows and doors (for all but one item)outside decorating for the last 5 years, relatively expensive but a one pot solution , not had to touch anything up yet.

The technical guide sheets recommends primers etc for that though?

Just looked up my old orders , its changed name, used to be called “Demidekk ultimate windows and dooors” now its “Demidekk ultimate window system”. More reading to be done.Thanks for spotting it.

Yes, for me the bottom rebate needs to be drained and I would build in the ability for it to drain away any condensation or dew that might form on the inside safely away to outside.

Tiny 3 or 4mm non biodegradable blocks or packers under the bottom glazing bead,

I always drilled holes down through the glass rebate leading to outside for wooden windows

If you have a chamfer or fall on the glass rebate that will help and holes non critical so long as water can get out

Drained glazing is what we want

Screw and glue sill to frame, I would use foaming wood glue, no setting mastic also possible.

Glass can be puttied or butyl masticced in and top and both sides glazing beads the same and screwed

Bottom bead I would set on packers seal to glass with silicone or polysulphide sealant hope to stop water going in the top and to let any that gets in out again

Basically a gap filler - so yes

Full joint fill, and tiny amount with the glue

I would use screws and plugs into masonry 50 or 55mm into solid, if bricks are vert brittle then go 80mm into mortar beds but aim for centre straps old No 10 screws 40mm to wood, 50mm to masonry

I would block down off the wood lintel and use flat straps to restrain top