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			<title>Green Building Forum - Internal wooden doors</title>
			<lastBuildDate>Sun, 19 Apr 2026 03:30:19 +0100</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>Internal wooden doors</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16925&amp;Focus=287217#Comment_287217</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 06 Feb 2021 21:53:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>bardo</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[I've been looking for simple wooden doors for our new build home. I'm new to the world of door buying and would appreciate some experienced viewpoints. Everything I come across appears to be either veneer finish (presumably packed with waste wood) or solid wood which on further inspection is a laminate. Many of the doors look exactly the same, presumably coming from same factory in China. For example this supposedly solid oak door (which is laminated oak) https://www.ukoakdoors.co.uk/suffolk-solid-oak-door is more than twice the price of the veneer version by same company. Is it worth paying over double for a solid laminate versus a veneered oak version? Do they look the same and offer the same sound and thermal insulation? Are there any reasonably priced wooden doors made in the UK? Cheers!]]>
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		<title>Internal wooden doors</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16925&amp;Focus=287223#Comment_287223</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 07 Feb 2021 02:09:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Mike1</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[That looks like a framed and ledged door with tongued and grooved solid timber battens - which is not the same as laminated. It doesn't say what type of oak it is though, which may matter if you're trying to match it to other oak, for example. Someone may well be able to identify it. Solid timber should have a much greater life as it can be readily sanded, repaired and redecorated if necessary. Though such doors may not be compatible with the aesthetic of the building as a whole, and many doors are probably changed for fashion rather than due to problems.<br /><br />Veneered doors are trickier to repair due to the laminate - you can't sand out more than surface damage - but can look good, and be more affordable. The core largely determines the thermal and sound insulation, and could be a range of materials from cardboard honeycomb, to chipboard, plywood or laminated timber, and various varieties between. The more solid, the better their robustness & sound attenuation.<br /><br />The veneer need not be timber though - high pressure laminates, Formic and the like, are among the alternatives but, from your post, I guess you're after a timber finish...]]>
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		<title>Internal wooden doors</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16925&amp;Focus=287225#Comment_287225</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 07 Feb 2021 08:31:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>tony</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[In the old days they used to use inch thick t&g beaded wide boards with ledgers abs Suffolk latches tee hinges with or without braces <br /><br />They look nice, easy and wood, I have made some and they last well too]]>
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		<title>Internal wooden doors</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16925&amp;Focus=287228#Comment_287228</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 07 Feb 2021 09:48:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>djh</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[We have veneered doors, because SWMBO insisted on no ledges etc anywhere to catch dust and require cleaning. So I bought fire doors for everywhere; they're not that much more expensive and they are a lot more solid. Haven't had any problems but there are only the two of us and two lazy cats. No toddlers, balls or dogs.]]>
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		<title>Internal wooden doors</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16925&amp;Focus=287234#Comment_287234</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 07 Feb 2021 11:37:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>SimonD</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Both doors are solid core but only have 15mm - 16mm maximum trim to all sides - just make sure you don't need to trim more off the bottom for floor finishes and the requisite bottom ventilation gap.<br /><br />The solid oak door also uses mortice and tenon which is the best jointing method. The veneer door can be purchased either 35mm or 40mm thickness but the solid door is 35mm only.<br /><br />Engineered solid doors may be more stable and have less tendency to move over time but that benefit is offset by the veneer layer. Would be interesting to know the thickness of the veneer in case you need to repair at any point.]]>
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		<title>Internal wooden doors</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16925&amp;Focus=287236#Comment_287236</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 07 Feb 2021 13:17:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>owlman</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[I suppose Stefan, the first question you have to ask yourself is, do I want the doors to look the same from both sides. The answer to that will guide you down a particular construction  and price route.]]>
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		<title>Internal wooden doors</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16925&amp;Focus=287248#Comment_287248</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 07 Feb 2021 19:43:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>djh</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: SimonD</cite>requisite bottom ventilation gap</blockquote><br />Forgotten where I learned it - one of the PH websites, I think? But you can build in the ventilation gap concealed in the architrave above the head of the door rather than cutting off the bottom of the door. Works well.]]>
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		<title>Internal wooden doors</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16925&amp;Focus=287288#Comment_287288</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 08 Feb 2021 14:35:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>SimonD</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: djh</cite><blockquote ><cite >Posted By: SimonD</cite>requisite bottom ventilation gap</blockquote><br />Forgotten where I learned it - one of the PH websites, I think? But you can build in the ventilation gap concealed in the architrave above the head of the door rather than cutting off the bottom of the door. Works well.</blockquote><br /><br />That's a nice idea!]]>
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