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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
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    The search I've just done on here relate to some older threads. Just wondering what people's up to date experiences are with LO suppliers?

    At the stage where my shop windows are ready to paint (softwood frames, hardwood sills and door frame)

    Currently debating the best method to paint and LO looks a good option and not too costly given it's a one off project. We can paint in the workshop so not in a rush to get it done in a day but need to make sure what we do is right.

    Pointers appreciated
    No info on LO suppliers but m experience with LO is not so good. I put it on some T&G on dormer windows, southish facing, and after a few years it went black with mould which didn't really come off and has remained stained to this day. I'm not sure what would have happend if I had given a light sanding and recoat every couple of years but that would have been too much work to make LO viable.
    What would be your preference then?

    This is for shop window front right next to a main road so will need to be washed quite frequently also
    Thought process on Sadolin?
    • CommentAuthorvord
    • CommentTimeFeb 10th 2021
    I've been happy with linseed paint from Ingilby. Never had mould issues.

    Though it's not your high gloss stuff. It'll matt quite quickly. Matts less quickly for further coats after the first ones have properly gone off. Also it takes a day or two to dry to the touch and that's only a 2 month linseed paint season in the summer.

    Only real advantage is it doesn't crack so you don't have to spend a week every 5 years stripping cracked modern gloss paint from the window. And it's breathable so the wood doesn't rot so much if water gets in somewhere.
    Spoke with Ingilby and they seem very confident their product would be good for my shop front. They suggest using two coats straight on the wood with no requirement for a base coat.

    What is your experience?
    • CommentAuthorvord
    • CommentTimeFeb 11th 2021
    Depends on the colour. For the black windows on the front they need 2 coats. White on the back needed 3 coats for coverage. This was on bare wood. You don't get all the benefits painting over cracking modern paints so best to strip back to wood. Don't use primers as that would defeat the point too. Linseed needs to soak into the wood. Often people use boiled linseed oil mixed 50% with real turpentine to soak the wood first, but I've never done that. It would probably help prevent pigment soaking into the wood.

    I've found all have went fairly matt after 2 years, but I did notice another coat painted on in places in the summer has retained it's gloss.
    Posted By: VictorianecoSpoke with Ingilby and they seem very confident their product would be good for my shop front.

    They would wouldn't they !
    • CommentAuthorvord
    • CommentTimeFeb 11th 2021 edited
    Posted By: Peter_in_Hungary
    Posted By: VictorianecoSpoke with Ingilby and they seem very confident their product would be good for my shop front.

    They would wouldn't they !

    It was the wrong question. Better question is how do I refinish in 5 years time. For a big window I stripped in 2013 the modern paint manufacturers might have advised me that the paint would crack, but as it's waterproof the water that gets into the cracks won't be able to get out again so rot will set in. Unless I spend a week stripping back to wood again. Maybe only me that doesn't have the time, but I'm almost Linseed paint all over now and maintenance is easy as it doesn't crack. For everything else it is worse. Much longer drying times, less gloss. If I was a builder I would use the modern paint as it's not my problem 5 years later.
    Is it a new window? I was set on LO but the double glazing manufacturer recoiled in horror as apparently it would degrade the glass seals.
    When we used Linseed oil paint we shellac'd the rebates for the glazing, to stop the putty drying out.
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