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| Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition |
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These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment. PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book. |
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Posted By: tonyYes but why use aerated blocks, they crack dreadfully, May as well use medium density concrete blocks -
But I like it! Raft will need double layer of grids and possibly thickening at the edges. My engineer did that to me, and under internal load bearing walls. I requested a redesign and instead of 200 slab with thickened edges now have a 225thick reinforced monolithic slab with no thickening, no cracks or problems
But he did a good job on the bales, Hilliard did a good job on the passive slab, and two others did good jobs on the arched timber roof and the engineered floor joists!
Posted By: CranbrookThe thermos were really just to keep weight down on the foundation and for ease of use tbh, and as they are 7N and I thought that they had better resistance to cracking than the standard thermos...
Posted By: jamesingramHave a look at 'passive slab' foundations
Somewhere online there the SE details laid out.
Try 'vikinghouse' not sure if it still up though. I may take a look now.
Or the old AECB gold EWI solution , that'll give you more details
+1 don't use thermo lite or any acc arrested block. Use fenlite, fibolite or similar. There a good mid weight block made out of recycled aggregate that's good can't remember it's name currently
Posted By: Mike1Posted By: CranbrookThe thermos were really just to keep weight down on the foundation and for ease of use tbh, and as they are 7N and I thought that they had better resistance to cracking than the standard thermos...
Take a look at 3.6N lightweight expanded clay aggregate block (e.g. Plasmor Fibolite, Lignacite Fibo 850).
Posted By: CranbrookAre the interlocking eps300 blocks imperative in these foundations (as opposed to sheets of eps300)?
Posted By: djhAre the interlocking eps300 blocks imperative in these foundations (as opposed to sheets of eps300)?
You need strength in the edges of the EPS 'bucket' to contain the concrete.
I bought my EPS direct from Kore in Ireland.
Posted By: Peter_in_HungaryIf you shutter around the EPS to contain both EPS and concrete then interlocking EPS shouldn't be needed.
Posted By: jamesingramusually fine with a single block padstoneWonderful thing, padstones, but much misunderstood. Often a thick wodge of so-so plain concrete is cast onto dodgy masonry, as a sort of ritual, without any understanding that the idea is to bind together, stabilise and share load across several bricks/stones or lower-strength blockwork, which individually aren't up to it. A cut length of presetressed conc lintol only 65mm high, well bedded in strong mortar onto well chosen bricks/stones, is going to be much better than a 8" high blob of rough in situ conc.
Posted By: djhPosted By: Peter_in_HungaryIf you shutter around the EPS to contain both EPS and concrete then interlocking EPS shouldn't be needed.
You may be right, but I haven't tried it and wouldn't want to. Have you?
Posted By: fostertomPosted By: jamesingramusually fine with a single block padstoneWonderful thing, padstones, but much misunderstood. Often a thick wodge of so-so plain concrete is cast onto dodgy masonry, as a sort of ritual, without any understanding that the idea is to bind together, stabilise and share load across several bricks/stones or lower-strength blockwork, which individually aren't up to it. A cut length of presetressed conc lintol only 65mm high, well bedded in strong mortar onto well chosen bricks/stones, is going to be much better than a 8" high blob of rough in situ conc.
Posted By: Peter_in_HungaryPosted By: djhPosted By: Peter_in_HungaryIf you shutter around the EPS to contain both EPS and concrete then interlocking EPS shouldn't be needed.
You may be right, but I haven't tried it and wouldn't want to. Have you?
Yes - but for a different purpose. Over here concrete ring beams are routinely cast in situ with EPS outboard of the concrete to give a similar(ish) thermal performance to the blocks they are sitting on. The ring beam ends up thinner than the block wall by the thickness of the EPS.
Method - the shuttering is put up level with the wall edges, the EPS is put inside the outer shuttering, the iron work put in and the concrete poured.
To create the EPS 'bucket' I would lay the base EPS then use this to butt the shuttering to, then place the side EPS inside the shuttering. This way the shuttering is dimensioned by the base EPS and the pressure of the concrete keeps the side EPS in place. By way of a bit of extra security a batten can be fixed to the shuttering on top of the side EPS to make sure it doesn't get dislodged, although with ring beams here that is not done.
Posted By: djhPosted By: CranbrookAre the interlocking eps300 blocks imperative in these foundations (as opposed to sheets of eps300)?
You need strength in the edges of the EPS 'bucket' to contain the concrete.
I bought my EPS direct from Kore in Ireland.
Posted By: Viking HouseHi Cranbrook, it's not necessary to shutter the EPS L sections or interconnect them, the L's are made from EPS300 that's nearly as strong as wood, gravity and friction holds them in place on the compacted hardcore even when you use a poker. A 200mm thickened edge slab with 100mm inner slab means you have to heat less concrete with the underfloor heating . Swedish are better with foundations while the German's are better with structure.
Posted By: CranbrookCan I achieve this is one pour.. i.e. get to finished floor level with one pour?
Posted By: djhPosted By: CranbrookCan I achieve this is one pour.. i.e. get to finished floor level with one pour?
You have to make the slab in one pour, otherwise you will lose strength. It's doubtful that the top of the slab will be your FFL unless you're committed to a polished concrete floor? In which case think very carefully in advance about how you will achieve level access.
Posted By: CranbrookCan I achieve this is one pour.. i.e. get to finished floor level with one pour?I understood what you meant, the answer is yes.
Posted By: Viking HousePosted By: CranbrookCan I achieve this is one pour.. i.e. get to finished floor level with one pour?I understood what you meant, the answer is yes.
Posted By: CranbrookPosted By: jamesingramHave a look at 'passive slab' foundations
Somewhere online there the SE details laid out.
Try 'vikinghouse' not sure if it still up though. I may take a look now.
Or the old AECB gold EWI solution , that'll give you more details
+1 don't use thermo lite or any acc arrested block. Use fenlite, fibolite or similar. There a good mid weight block made out of recycled aggregate that's good can't remember it's name currently
Do you know of any suppliers that would deliver the aforementioned blocks to South Wales? Material sourcing is the biggest issue I seem to be facing when attempting newer build methods!
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