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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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  1.  
    New glass in (8.8mm laminate) which is fixed using glazing tape against the timber rebate.

    I now need to use a glazing bead against the glass to hold firmly in place.

    Can you use glazing tape against the glass externally? The stuff I have looks 'open cell' do I need some kind of butyl tape instead?

    The Stormgard seals I bought push the glazing bead out quite far and it overhangs the frame so I need a thinner solution... I'm hoping not to get new glazing beads as the size is 20mm x 15mm and I cannot find anything 'from the main sheds' that is 20mm but say 12mm....
  2.  
    For the glazing bead on the outside we have used Silfix U9 in black (we have black warm-edge spacers), glazing tape against the timber rebate on the inside same as you (which is also black).
    A good bead of it so it squishes out over the glass, then brass panel pins to hold the glazing bead in place (drill pilot hole first if hardwood, the pins bend easily when hammering in). Final tap with a punch so that the head is easier to paint over.
    Let it go off a bit, then mist soapy water over the glass, and run a hardwood wedge soaked in soapy water up the face of the glass at the edge of the bead to peel off the excess silicon (hard to describe this, easy if you see it done)

    (edited to add: cover the floor with newspaper or cardboard or a dust sheet, so that the silicon slug that peels off doesn't get trodden in!)

    Clean up glass and bead / frame with kitchen roll. White spirit if necessary.
  3.  
    I think that sounds perfect. Do you silicone all of the back of the bead or just the top edge?
  4.  
    I put loads on, I applied it to the glass at the edge, then squished the bead on. Maybe a bit too much wastage, but didn't want gaps.

    This technique was advised by our friend Adam, who made the windows. He has seen and heard about pretty much all of the possible ways of glazing timber windows that different people have tried, over the last 30 years that he has been a joiner, and this is how he now does his own.
  5.  
    Here is the smallest window, glazed this way.
      square window.jpg
  6.  
    and a close up...
      close up.jpg
  7.  
    The frame is painted white on the inside. You can see some text printed on the warm edge spacer. You can also just see the edge of the rebate on the inside which is actually painted green
  8.  
    looks good, do you just seal against the glass or against the main frame also?
  9.  
    I applied it to the glass, but I don’t avoid the frame as such, it’s just that the beads are cut so accurately that they won’t fit with anything behind them so they have to be pushed hard against the frame otherwise they bow out, and once the panel pins are in its all pretty much squished out from that edge anyway. I expect (hope?) that the face of the glass under the bead is fully covered with the Silfix all the way to the frame. I’m also pretty sure some of it squishes up that edge as well.

    I also think that the way that Adam has sized the rebate and the bead has probably allowed for a 1 or 2 mm gap for the Silfix when the bead is pushed in flush to the frame.

    These could do with another coat of paint this year to seal the outer face of the joint between the bead and the frame. On the glazed doors I filled this gap with filler to try and get it perfect (it was too much to ask the thin paint to fill it fully, even if the gap looked tiny)
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