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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorTomasz_P
    • CommentTimeDec 11th 2021
    Hi everyone,

    I have almost finished laying my reclaimed cut bricks onto a Limecrete floor with UFH. I used a lime based adhesive. The bricks are close laid and fairly uneven due to the varying thicknesses (and lengths and widths!). Grouting with a wet mix would be very time consuming and I don't think it would work all that well. A brush in grout was recommended to me and I think this method could give me quite a nice sympathetic finish. One slight concern for me was using something not breathable but given that it makes up such a small area and the bricks themselves are porous I thought that would probably be fine as long as I use a suitable sealant at the end. Osmo Poly X oil was recommended to me for this by someone who lays a lot of brick floors in old house. Interesting as that is typically a product for wood.
    Nice job there!
    We have tried a dry mix of fine sand & cement poured/brushed in the gaps, then “watered” in with a sprayer.
    It seems to have worked quite well in most places but then a bit disappointing in others, and we have a few wobbly bricks (but that’s probably more down to the laying) we also added black iron oxide to the mix to make it dark grey)
    I have heard good things about resin mixes e.g. for patios
    • CommentAuthorGreenPaddy
    • CommentTimeDec 12th 2021
    the Sika jointing compound seems to stay quite "open", letting rain water pass through it. I love the speed of installing it, but I'm not loving the appearance - a bit porridge like, and maybe a bit rough/granular for interior??

    Not an answer, I know, just my experience of using it on patios. You've got a lovely looking floor, but I'm struggling for a way to have it grouted to perform like ceramic tiles, so it can be kept clean at the joints. Is there a breathable sealer you can apply to the bricks first, then use a traditional tile type grout, so the grout can be washed off the brick faces??
    • CommentAuthorTomasz_P
    • CommentTimeDec 13th 2021
    Thanks for the advice. Sounds like it might be best to try it out a few things on an area which will be hidden. Good point on ease of cleaning. It is going to be hard enough as it is with this floor! At least it won't show up the dirt too much!
    • CommentAuthorTomasz_P
    • CommentTimeDec 13th 2021
    I assume brushing in a lime/cement mix and watering in would work fine too. The advantage of some of the other brush in grouts is that you have quite a good selection of colours.
    • CommentAuthorTomasz_P
    • CommentTimeJan 11th 2022
    Going to try kiln dried sand and lime. I have been recommended Surfapore M by one of the big suppliers so I will try this. Apparently it has a subtle finish that will not change the colour by much. Will post some photos when it is done.
    • CommentAuthorJonti
    • CommentTimeJan 12th 2022
    Will kiln dried work? It tends to repel water so might not bind properly.
    kiln dried was the fine sand we used on ours (assuming that it was a very fine sand and would flow well into the very small gaps we have) then watered in. I'm not sure it was the best choice and that a building sand may have been better.
    • CommentAuthorTomasz_P
    • CommentTimeJan 12th 2022
    Ahh, i was not aware of that. I will do a bit of a test in a hidden area with both building sand and kiln dried.
    We tried pointing a brick pillar (supporting the kitchen sink) with the same mix and it seemed unusable for that job. So remixed with building sand instead, which worked, but obviously that was a vertical surface rather than horizontal.
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