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Products: How to get deep loft insulation and storage space
I need to increase the loft insulation in the house I'm about to buy from the current measly 3in of cellulose fibre but I also need to keep the space for storage.
Ideally with a windproof vapour permeable membrane to stop drafts getting down your ceiling lights somewhere in either of those options. By the way - do the costing first on either method. Warm cell + boards is the more sustainable route. But either will £Save the planet.
1. New plasterboard ceilings with polythene vapour barrier stapled to joists above 2. Mineral wool between existing 50x75 ceiling joists [short span annex] 3. 100mm foil faced PUR rigid boards [2400mm x 1200mm sheets] cut to size and laid transverse above joists 4. Cheap hardboard [2400mm x 1200mm] laid on top to create a safe walking and storage surface
Not ideal, but much lighter than chipboard and extra joists, which your current joists may not be designed to cope with
Of course you still have to be careful how much weight you put up there
Hi Andy I know of a fantastic company who sell Sips to the general public, I'm currently using them to build a sip garage, they are SIP BUILD LTD and are based in Widnes Cheshire their website is www.sipbuildltd.com and their telephone number is 0870 850 2264. Hope this helps
EDF insulated my loft to about 8" for free last summer, so I bought a load of timber and put raised posts at regular intervals along all of my floor joists. My old chipboard floor now lays on top of those posts, leaving the thick insulation where it was, safe and unsquashed. All it cost me was about £40 and a few weekends in te loft, which I imagine will be cheaper than the SIPs. How much are you planning on spending?
Posted By: TerryHave to agree with joe.e - seems the simplest and most cost effective method and retains the floor strength that Mikes loses.
Why do you think my floor has no strength?
100mm of rigid PUR is pretty solid when supported by joists underneath anyway. Laying hardboad over the top means that I can be sure that the surface of the PUR remains undamaged.
Adding more joist and chipboard will add more weight overall - It does not mean you can store much more weight up there - as you have allready increases the self weight of the old attic joists with your new floor
Mike's option sounds good too. I suppose it's down to the specifics - what is the size and span of the existing joists, from point ot view of adding weight; how big is the hatch, for getting sheets of PUR up there; what would the realtive cost be of Warmcel / PUR. If it were me, if the structure could support it, I might still go for the extra joists and Warmcel, just because you could fit in up to 200mm of insulation, and it would fill every little gap.
Thanks loads for all your comments – gave me loads of options to look at and I’ve been doing a bit of digging on prices:
Option 1: SIPS Panels £42/m² for 150mm thick panels
Option 2: PUR rigid boards with hardboard facing £10/m² (100mm Celotex) plus £1.60/m² hardboard (3mm) £12/m² Total
Option 3: Raised floor over insulation £7/m² plywood (12mm thick) plus £1.80/m² loft roll (100mm) or £2.70/m² Warmcell (100mm) £9 - 10/m² Total
I’m looking doing about 30m² and I’m not made of money so the SIPS are out. The other two are comparable in price and the Celotex and hardboard sounds like a lot less work (cutting joist raisers etc). A couple of questions, though: - Is 3mm hardboard enough on top? - Will the Celotex be compressed where it lays on the joists (only worked with it a couple of times and can’t remember what the compressive strength’s like) - Will I get a condensation problem in my existing cellulose under the Celotex as I don’t have a vapour barrier at the ceiling level.
I don't know the compressive strength of 100mm PUR but it is fine in my loft [ceiling joists at 400mm ctrs] I cut the PUR on the joists like you would plasterboard, staggering the hardboard above.
Conventional wisdom says you would need a vapour barrier.
Also the thermal performnace of PUR is much better than your other priced alternatives at 100mm thickness
I am about to do what you are contemplating, I think at your pricing of £9/sq.m a multifoil insulation on top of your GF with your flooring raised on 1" battens would work out easier to do and cheaper. Sorry I mentioned the "M" word but lofts get very hot in summer which is the problem I have, in that the bedrooms get too hot in summer. Foils are very good for this. Trying to find a permeable foil. Frank
Forgive my SIP ignorance, and I know it's a whole different question, but if 100mm Celotex is £10/m, so I guess 150mm is around £15/m, and OSB is, say, £4/m, then how come 150mm SIP's are £42/m?
Like joe.e I put in a new row of joists above the existing ones separated with 2by2 inch cross battons ie making a large pallet like platform and then toppng off with a mix of 18mm plywood old floorboards and chipboard. I left the old glass fibre insulation around unboarded sections and covered with kraft paper to stop the stuff making me itch. I've got a load of 50mm sheeps wool insulation but I need to supplement this to finish the insulation between the joists. May not get more thermafleece because of huge transport costs so may just use rockwool. Are there any national chains selling warmcell so you don't have massive transport costs?
For a vapour check I cut sections of sisalkraft 420 and put this between the joists. Not a perfect fit as its hard to retrofit with lath and plaster ceilings.
I still have not made a decision on what to put under the rafter. I only need to keep the big swings in temperature away from the stuff I store in the loft. Foil insulation look like an ideal solution but I'm worried about condensation issues.
Mr T As far as I know there are warmcell distributors all over the country, but not sure if they are listed anywhere. Seem to recall phoning Excel industries and being given contact details for a couple of local installers/suppliers.
Mike George Misread your last comment (in your original post) regarding how much weight you could put up there and assumed you were refering to limited compressive strength of the PUR. (not sure what that is) I would have thought that this would be a limiting factor as the load is only really going onto the bit of the PUR boards that are in contact with the joists. Also got it in my head that hard board is thin and if this is so a foot fall landing midspan between joists might result in the PUR boards cracking. Perhaps your hardboard is not so thin?
As you say there is a limit to the weight you can put up there depending on joist size, just not sure if the compressive strength of the PUR boards will be exceeded before the joist load limit. Anybody got an answer on that one?
I might have found the perfect insulation for the job...
Jabfloor 70 is designed for underfloor insulation and to be topped by screed or concrete but it's very strong, light and workable. It also doesn't have the condensation issues thatmight arise from using Celotex or similar over existing insulation without any vapour barrier.
It has the same k-value as mineral wool so I can put up 120mm thick sheets and get a significant performance increase over what's already there.
I am a little nervous about ordering a big batch of the stuff without even having seen it (just in case there's something I've overlooked that'll make it unsuitable). Has anyone used it before?
Any chance of getting Gordon's 50% reduction for insulating with kingspan/celotex rather than conventional loft insulation? Doesn't emulsion paint on the ceiling count as a vapour barrier? I've got a slatted floor already on top of joists and insulation. Should be ok just to put PUR over the top of this I'm thinking?
Just had Rockwarm round because I was interested in the latest grants and they are in the 'scheme'. They quote a cost to me of £199 for adding 8" (I presume this means 200mm) to the existing 75-100mm. Of course this is glass fibre, they don't do anything friendlier, but is it (1) a reasonable price for an area of about 40sqm, (2) a good idea to simply cross lay two layers of 100mm over the existing insulation and joists, (3) better to remove the boarding covering 75% of the floor (which they suggest), and/or (4) a problem to cover any wiring still further?
And did anyone have any comments about the Jabfloor mentioned by AndyShep?
I just bought some rolls of 170mm mineral wool from wickes and laid them across existing insulation and joints.
An area of 40sqm would need about 5 rolls. As its on BOGOF you may as well get six. So for about £100 you could do the loft yourself. I think it's one of the easiest jobs I ever did.
I used the extra that I had to double up over the colder side of the house.
I was house clearing (final push - all done now) at mother's at the weekend and ended up with about 10 pillows, 5 double duvets and I can't think how many cushion innards up in our loft. Quite snuggly up there now.