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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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  1.  
    Hi all,

    Can anyone let me know which would be the easiest product to use for a first timer - the square sided or the tongue and groove version of steico therm? (attached using lime plaster and fixings in each corner)

    The people at Mike Wye said there wasn’t much difference in usability for the two products. I can’t help but think there are more potential pitfalls with tongue and groove compared to square sided though. And its just a small wall, 2m x 3m, with a window in the middle

    Thanks
    • CommentAuthorSimonD
    • CommentTimeFeb 4th 2022 edited
     
    I don't think there's much in it either although with the square boards, you'll have to fill any gaps and/or make sure there aren't any. With the T & G you're guaranteed a good fit and no air gaps between the boards. With the T & G you may need to tap them properly into place as they can be an interference fit, but then the boards are aligned. With square edge, you may need to tap with a hammer to get the boards aligned. Again all horses for courses.

    Do you have a plan for the window reveals?
    • CommentAuthorArtiglio
    • CommentTimeFeb 4th 2022
     
    I wanted 60mm of insulation but at the time there was none available , so i ended up putting 20mm of square edge bonded to the wall and 40mm of t&g on top. As SimonD says there’s nothing much in it, i liked two layers as it meant there were almost zero full depth joints. The t&g does look very neat when you stand back and admire though.
    • CommentAuthorkristeva
    • CommentTimeFeb 4th 2022
     
    The only thing I would say about T & G is you might want your wall to be uniformly flat, thats a concept that's fairly redundant in my house.
  2.  
    Posted By: SimonD

    Do you have a plan for the window reveals?


    I was planning to cut down my 60mm thick boards into strips 20mm thick for the window reveals. A builder I spoke to thought this was a monumental waste if time though and thought I’d be better off fitting the window reveal frame first and just backfilling the gap between the wall with rock wool. This would obvs be far less faff, wondering if it would actually suffice though?
    • CommentAuthordaveking66
    • CommentTimeFeb 5th 2022 edited
     
    Posted By: kristevaThe only thing I would say about T & G is you might want your wall to be uniformly flat, thats a concept that's fairly redundant in my house.


    My walls are wonky as heck too unfortunately with the top section bulging out by up to 20mm. Shouldn’t I be levelling the wall first though?
    • CommentAuthorSimonD
    • CommentTimeFeb 6th 2022
     
    Posted By: daveking66My walls are wonky as heck too unfortunately with the top section bulging out by up to 20mm. Shouldn’t I be levelling the wall first though?


    Ideally, yes! :bigsmile:
  3.  
    Posted By: daveking66My walls are wonky as heck too unfortunately with the top section bulging out by up to 20mm. Shouldn’t I be levelling the wall first though?

    That depends upon the style of house you have. I have a couple of stone/rubble walled houses with timbered ceilings where the walls are anything but flat and taper from bottom to top. I wouldn't dream of making the walls flat -that IMO would remove too much of the character of the buildings. I leave the flat walls for modern built houses.
    • CommentAuthorSimonD
    • CommentTimeFeb 6th 2022
     
    Posted By: Peter_in_HungaryThat depends upon the style of house you have. I have a couple of stone/rubble walled houses with timbered ceilings where the walls are anything but flat and taper from bottom to top. I wouldn't dream of making the walls flat -that IMO would remove too much of the character of the buildings. I leave the flat walls for modern built houses.


    But that is hardly going to work if you're applying 60mm woodfibre iwi as there's no way that will follow the natural undulations of an old stone wall. That's probably the major compromise associated with such a retrofit.
  4.  
    Posted By: SimonDBut that is hardly going to work if you're applying 60mm woodfibre iwi as there's no way that will follow the natural undulations of an old stone wall. That's probably the major compromise associated with such a retrofit.

    It will smooth out the more acute dips in the wall but I would expect undulations and any tapering of the wall to be followed, much like it would with EPS. Also with such walls I have not used the glass smooth finish of polished plaster but rather a (slightly) rougher finish of render which (to me anyway) better befits the character.
    • CommentAuthorjfb
    • CommentTimeFeb 6th 2022
     
    I'd just use square edge - cheaper and easier. As said just fill any gaps with foam/left over woodfibre bits.
    20mm boards for the window reveals ideally. Note, depending on how thick the window frames are and the gap between window and wall that it will cover more of the frames than you might expect once you have rendered.

    60mm boards can cope with undulations if gradual but ideally you want a relatively flat wall as you don't really want gaps behind.

    If your wall is smooth I wouldn't bother buttering the backs of the boards with render. I think they recommend 5 fixings per board - 4 in corners and one in middle.
    • CommentAuthorkristeva
    • CommentTimeFeb 6th 2022 edited
     
    Posted By: daveking66
    Posted By: kristevaThe only thing I would say about T & G is you might want your wall to be uniformly flat, thats a concept that's fairly redundant in my house.


    My walls are wonky as heck too unfortunately with the top section bulging out by up to 20mm. Shouldn’t I be levelling the wall first though?


    Exactly the same problem here, at least in the bedroom I'm currently working in. I'm applying the wood fibre board to the old existing plaster which ramps from top to bottom. The problem for me is the wooden edge of the window reveal is fairly straight so if I try and take the fibre board up to the edge of the reveal ( cover it) they'll be gaps behind. So I've got to level the wall out with a coat of plaster.

    As for detailing the reveals I'm thinking of using 25mm rigid foam board topped with 9mm plasterboard. I figure the reveal is already painted with modern vinyl paint so its not really breathable as such, and if I buffer it up against the wood fibre it will help keep the corners a little sharper.

    I'm using square edge wood fibre btw.
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