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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTime7 days ago
     
    What ho one and all,

    I have a regular blockage with one of the g/f toilets. Because the water fills so quickly, I assume the blockage is clse to the toilet itself, but I don't know the best way to alleviate the issue.

    I use the word ' regular' because it is; my normal solution is the pressure washer with the 15m pipe cleaning pipe and generally blast it clear. But that does not get into the 90 degree bends.

    Obviously the toilet has the normal U bend, then into a 90 elbow for about 60 cms, before entering the downpipe, which in turn, has a elbow at its base to flow under the house. My feeling is the problem is with one of the first two bends but I don't know how to clear it.

    I do have a flexible 'snake' thing but doubt if this can negotiate a U bend and two 90 degrees; I would hate to get it jammed!!!

    Don't think a plunger will work as the wash basin, tundish from the boiler , and kitchen sink drain all use the same downpipe so the pressure would only escape via the overflows. But also, it does drain so pressure will not blast the blockage out.

    Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

    Thanks and toodle pip
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTime7 days ago
     
    I guess you're stuck with chemical un-blockers. There are many different types some slow some speedy, some with very aggressive action etc., so you'll need to do the legwork to find a suitable one. Good luck.
    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTime7 days ago
     
    I am only guess where the blockage is owning to the speed with which the pan fills / does not drain. I f the blockage is in the pipe under the house, at the elbow before the horizontal section, I am guessing that the volume of the pipe is such that the pan should drain well (ish.)

    But it does not, so assuming the blockage is near the toilet. I will do what I have done in the past and which will probably work again this time; use the pressure washer with the 15m pipe cleaning tool.

    Personally, I think the problem can be solved by getting my wife to alter her toilet paper use modus operandi. For whatever reason, she uses great wads of the stuff.

    Of course, if there was to be another build, I would ensure the sewerage pipe runs were more logical with plenty of access points.
    • CommentAuthorjfb
    • CommentTime7 days ago
     
    Get an old coat hanger and prepare to get dirty!
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTime7 days ago
     
    It sounds as though you could do with a slight drainage modification, perhaps a new rodding eye where the downpipe elbows under the house. This would at least eliminate one of the potential areas.
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTime7 days ago edited
     
    Nilfisk do a drain attachment for their Pressure washers that will easily navigate 90° bends. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nilfisk-6410766-Pipe-Cleaning-meters/dp/B0001P0BPI

    However, the last blockage I had was because of one of those silly plastic clip over toilet block holders that had fallen into the toilet. This was actually wedged in the very back of the toilet (before the pan connector!).

    I discovered that *after* I'd pressure cleared the pipe....
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTime7 days ago
     
    We have a WC with a similar drainage arrangement. In our case there's a manhole outside but I don't remember whether that was mandatory for access or just because there was a junction there. I don't think there'd be any way to put another rodding eye in under the slab. We do have one rodding eye for the kitchen drain because it runs the entire width of the house under the slab, so we thought we'd better have access at the far end. Fortunately we haven't needed access because of problems there or at the other drain. We have had to rebuild a couple of the manholes in the drive that were inadequately specified originally.
    • CommentAuthorkristeva
    • CommentTime6 days ago
     
    If you need a chemical go to a plumbers yard and get 'One Stop'

    They're obliged to ask if you're in the trade - you say 'yes' - because its the stuff idiots use for acid attacks.

    It's cheap and by far the best.
    • CommentAuthorSteveZ
    • CommentTime6 days ago
     
    Is there anywhere outside to fix an OSMA soil access saddle? Solvent weld access cover, just needs a hole in the stack and a £15 saddle. Neat fitting, only for PVC pipe
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTime6 days ago
     
    Posted By: SteveZOSMA soil access saddle
    I think all the drains are underground?
    • CommentAuthorphiledge
    • CommentTime6 days ago
     
    Fit a rodding point where the pipe exits the underside of the house so you can rod back towards the toilet with a claw on the rods??

    Waste pipes should be able to handle handfulls of toilet paper so if its blocking repeatedly might be worth getting a camera run up the pipe to make sure theres nothing wedged in the pipe or some misalignment. My mother in law managed to get a biro wedged just down stream of the toilet in her flat which then blocked repeatedly until I had the pleasure of removeing!!
  1.  
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: philedge</cite> My mother in law managed to get a biro wedged just down stream of the toilet in her flat which then blocked repeatedly until I had the pleasure of removeing!!</blockquote>

    My mother unknowingly flushed a bottle of shampoo down the loo, and it lodged in the pipe half way to the septic tank. I had to climb into the tank and rod it out in bits using a claw attachment.
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