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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorBenM
    • CommentTimeSep 12th 2022
     
    Hi,

    I was just wondering if anyone had any recommendations on tanking slurry products?

    Seems to be quite the choice, and just interested to hear from people who had a particularly good experience with a particular product.

    Just getting ready to do the floor floor and walls of over brick lined cellar, follow some extensive paint stripping!

    Cheers

    Ben
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 12th 2022
     
    Vandex, slurried onto still-green cement render, after good cleaning of the sound masonry (or concrete floor) surface - brick ideal, rubble stone less ideal unless really solidly bedded. Vandex grows crystals back into the masonry, thro any capillaries that are wet, clogging them up. Very effective indeed if it all chimes together. Form a s/cem fillet where conc floor meets masonry wall.
    • CommentAuthorBenM
    • CommentTimeSep 13th 2022
     
    Posted By: fostertomVandex, slurried onto still-green cement render, after good cleaning of the sound masonry (or concrete floor) surface - brick ideal, rubble stone less ideal unless really solidly bedded. Vandex grows crystals back into the masonry, thro any capillaries that are wet, clogging them up. Very effective indeed if it all chimes together. Form a s/cem fillet where conc floor meets masonry wall.


    Sounds ideal. It’ll be going onto clean brick work and a concrete floor.


    I’m wondering if the slurry on the floor is ok to be covered over with levelling compound?
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 13th 2022
     
    I should think so - ask em.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 14th 2022
     
    Are you trying to stop water getting in? Or moisture vapour movement
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 14th 2022
     
    That's a bit obscure tony - can you expand on that?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 14th 2022
     
    Basement development association work showed that contrary to popular belief moisture moves from basements into the soil beyond! Unless it is water, water table, plumbing or drain leak etc.

    I have no tanking in my basement, tanking is destined to fail, I prefer fail-safe
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 14th 2022 edited
     
    Posted By: tonymoisture moves from basements into the soil beyond
    Sounds beneficial - do you mean the other way round?
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeSep 14th 2022 edited
     
    Posted By: tonyBasement development association work showed that contrary to popular belief moisture moves from basements into the soil beyond! Unless it is water, water table, plumbing or drain leak etc.
    A quick search doesn't reveal any organization called "Basement development association". Could you provide a link to the organization and to the work you refer to, please?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 14th 2022
     
    It was part of BRE in the 1980’s not good with references

    Moisture movement in air is driven by partial vapour pressures movement of moisture is from places of higher pvp to places where it is lower, a downhill unstoppable process (except by vapour barriers). Generally homes are warmer than their surrounding including basements, so yes moisture in the form of water vapour moves outwards and downwards.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 14th 2022 edited
     
    Posted By: tonyGenerally homes are warmer than their surrounding including basements, so yes moisture in the form of water vapour moves outwards and downwards
    So yes, water vapour is more likely to condense out of vapour into liquid on the surfaces of a colder basement (or interstitially within its surrounding solids), leaving an absence of vapour so lowering vapour pressure in the basement, which is filled by more vapour drawn from rooms above, which condenses and so on - a one-way draw of vapour and accumulation of condensation.

    But it's not as likely that vapour passes on out thro the basement's surrounding solids into the soil beyond, especially if the soil is saturated with liquid water. So what exactly is the point you're making tony? Something I'm sure, but it's not clear.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 14th 2022
     
    If the basement is cold and below dewpoint then yes but if the basement is a living space then the vapour passes through into the soils behind the wall.

    Once lived in the heal losses from the basement warm the soils, pushing moisture away.

    If there is water, leaks, blocked rainwater, high water table etc then water will flow into the basement but moisture in the form of water vapour moves out and down.

    Ever dug up an old floor?
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 14th 2022 edited
     
    I geddit - in the case that the basement is a living space i.e. maintained continuously at same temp as rooms above even if it means much heat loss, then water vapour doesn't condense on the basement surfaces but permeates into the solid fabric until it reaches cold soil (or fabric cooled by the ground) and condenses interstitially (i.e. in the pores of a solid) there. From where it can presumably disperse into the soil. This seems harmless, for as long as the internal heating is kept up?

    Vandex would prevent that permeation into the solid fabric, because as soon as any interstitial conddensation occurs, crystals would grow to clog up the pores/capillaries.

    Other surface-coated internal tanking (i.e. not drained-cavity type like Newtonite) would have same effect for as long as it adheres and doesn't crack.

    Externally applied tanking (to a new concrete-box basement) would allow that permeation and interstitial condensation - which would stay within the envelope - no way to disperse into the soil.

    Now, the case that the basement isn't heated - ow, my head's hurting! Anyone else?!
  1.  
    I think of the voids under the suspended floors of Victorian houses as 'dehumidifiers' for drying the building above.

    The void is unheated and usually has limited ventilation. The moisture vapour from the house diffuses away into the bare soil, due to the vapour pressure gradient as Tony explained. If it were ever tempted to condense immediately, it could freely drain away, but it would actually prefer to diffuse to a deeper subsoil layer with still-lower vapour pressure and condense there instead.

    The things that spoil this dehumidifier are 1) concrete oversite layers (20thC buildings need a lot more ventilation down there) and 2) VCLs added to floors.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 15th 2022
     
    Thanks Will - that's how I've thought about floors with voids or interstices but never heard it confirmed. Any comment on how I've extended the idea to the attached (hope it's legible - I can email the pdf to anyone interested).
      285Ja-ufloor 330KB.JPG
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