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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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    • CommentAuthorNeesha
    • CommentTimeJan 6th 2025
     
    Hello,
    I'm a newbie member but long time browser of the forum. I have a solution to our DHW needs with an air to air heat pump that I'd appreciated some hive mind input on.
    We are retrofitting a 1960's bungalow and the PHPP is predicting a heating load of just 2kw. Because of this, we're thinking a mini-split air to air heat pump would be a good choice, supplemented by perhaps a towel rail or direct electrical heating if and when needed. I looked at the Daikin multi plus, but the output is way more than we'll need for heating and hot water. I'm reckoning on an extra 500W load for the hot water as there are just two of us and we're not big users of hot water.
    The system that looks a better pairing with our air to air heat pump is a hot water heat pump where the heat pump is integrated on top of the water cylinder and the whole thing lives inside. Something like the Tesy AquaThermica Compact or the Dimplex Edel model.
    Initially I was going to connect the inlet and outlet to the outside air and then uncouple the pipes in summer to get some useful cooling as the heat pump ran on internal air. However, I'm now wondering whether to run it on internal air all year round. This is a common set up in the States it seems where the units are often located in basements. However ours would be in a study right inside the thermal envelope. Obviously it will be sucking warm air in from the house and releasing cool air so it may seem a bit mad. But here's why I think it could work:
    1. It could piggy back on the very efficient air to air heat pump heat - we'd just run that unit longer / harder
    2. Doing it this way avoids two holes in the wall and the heat losses associated with that
    3. We could charge up the DHW over night on a cheap tariff which would mean that excess air movement created by the HWHP wouldn't be bothersome.
    4, As the ingoing air would be relatively warm, the HWHP shouldn't need too much energy to move the heat.
    I haven't been able to find anyone who's done something like this. Does anyone here know of someone trying this? Or is there something I'm missing and this would be a mad thing to do and I should just vent to the external air.
    For context, we are doing a whole house retrofit in the coming months. Location is south coast of England. We will have a central MVHR system. Floor area around 100m2 with a loft extension but only 74m2 for PHPP because of loft eaves. Battery and PV to be installed.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJan 7th 2025
     
    An interesting idea that I've been wondering about myself, though I'm not sure I'd be brave enough to install it unducted. I note that the Tesy mentions unducted, whilst the Dimplex does not.

    I can't give much advice, although I'll be very interested to follow your decision process. Do consider noise as well as the volume of air that will be moved around. Do calculate the actual power and energy etc that you're considering for your overnight heating plan as well as the continuous alternative. AFAICT the water heater will be moving 3-4 times as much air as your MVHR, for example. You probably want a dedicated indoor unit mounted near the water heater; ideally able to be controlled separately from whatever other indoor units you have.

    FWIW, I can recommend the VEAB MQEM duct heater we have fitted after our MVHR as a means of supplying at least some heat to the house. I've also been considering heat pump-powered fan coils instead, but haven't yet seen anything that makes we want to go out and buy it immediately.

    Your heating load of 2 kW with a TFA of 74 m² seems to be just above the EnerPHit limit. I wonder if it's worth trying to meet the EnerPHit standard?
    • CommentAuthorNeesha
    • CommentTimeJan 8th 2025
     
    Thanks for the response, djh.

    I'll be sure to model the set up as far as I can before going ahead, but good to know someone else has been mulling this. Noise is certainly something to consider, but in our situation shouldn't be an issue.

    We are close to EnerPHit but are running out of cost effective ways to hit it so may just be pragmatic and let that one go.

    If it looks like a goer on paper, I'd be tempted to try this configuration. At worst we could put in external ducting later if it's not working out.

    I'll share where we go with this one and how it works out if we do go ahead.
  1.  
    As your DHW usage is low have you thought of using an old fashioned DHW tank with immersion heater charged up on cheap night rate.
    A simple solution probably cheaper than a heat pump with all the associated complications you cite above.
    • CommentAuthorNeesha
    • CommentTimeJan 8th 2025
     
    Hi Peter in Hungary,

    Thanks for your suggestion. I have considered an immersion heater and I think in our situation, even with higher running costs, an immersion tank on an overnight tariff might well be a cheaper solution and the simplicity IS appealing. However, we've got enough budget to try to find a lower energy solution, so I'm tempted by the HWHP. It does have a back up immersion heater so if the heat pump fails or is too noisy or drafty we can revert to using that. The Tesy isn't madly expensive (£999 on sale) though I expect installation will be more pricey than a standard immersion tank. I've found a plumber willing to install and should get a quote from them next week.
  2.  
    Posted By: NeeshaSomething like the Tesy AquaThermica Compact or the Dimplex Edel model.


    I've looked at the Edel in the past and it seems a good product. The problem I would have with the Tesy is that it has an anode which would need replacing at intervals depending on the water supply.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJan 9th 2025
     
    Posted By: PeterStarckThe problem I would have with the Tesy is that it has an anode which would need replacing at intervals depending on the water supply.
    That sounds like a feature rather than a problem. If you feed hard water into plumbing, you have to deal with it somehow.
  3.  
    Posted By: djh
    Posted By: PeterStarckThe problem I would have with the Tesy is that it has an anode which would need replacing at intervals depending on the water supply.
    That sounds like a feature rather than a problem. If you feed hard water into plumbing, you have to deal with it somehow.


    It’s a ‘feature’ that exits only because the cylinder is made of a material that corrodes, whether the water is hard or soft. It could mean the need to partially drain down the system annually in order to replace the anode. If the cylinder is made of stainless steel, as the Edel, then an anode is not required. The reason the Tesy is a lower cost is because the material used is cheaper.
  4.  
    Our mains pressure immersion heated DHW tanks have sacrificial anodes (about 1" dia and 12" long) and with continual daily use of the tank they last about 5 years. Of course YMMV as local conditions may change the life span.
  5.  
    Plain steel DHW cylinders with enamel paint are common in mainland Europe, the anode controls the rusting at any cracks or scratches in the enamel.

    In the UK, cylinders were always made of copper to avoid rusting without needing enamel/anodes, and are switching to stainless. IDK why our approach is different, but suspect there are some different regs involved. Would be interested whether a cheaper steel cylinder is UK compliant, and if so then why aren't there lots more cheap imports available at merchants?

    Magnesium anodes won't soften water, need to exchange some some sodium ions for that.
  6.  
    Posted By: WillInAberdeenWould be interested whether a cheaper steel cylinder is UK compliant, and if so then why aren't there lots more cheap imports available at merchants?

    Over here a 120 ltr mains pressure DHW immersion tank is about 280 GBP (that’s the most common size). A 200 ltr tank is about 460 GBP and a 10 year guarantee is usual. There is no mandatory testing required and replacements if needed is often done DIY as is any maintenance due to limescale build up or anode replacement.
    • CommentAuthorMike1
    • CommentTimeJan 11th 2025
     
    Posted By: Peter_in_HungaryThere is no mandatory testing required and replacements if needed is often done DIY as is any maintenance due to limescale build up or anode replacement.
    The same in France, where they seem happy to to use the pressure relief valve to vent excess water instead of insisting on an expansion vessel.

    The UK stuck with vented cylinders until 1986, so I guess they were (unnecessarily?) cautious in requiring inspections when moving to unvented.

    As for using copper in the UK rather than regular steel, maybe that was just due to the way the national standards were written?
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJan 11th 2025
     
    I think ordinary steel has been tried in the UK and found wanting. Rust and other corrosion, too heavy, various other failure modes and maintenance of anodes etc. Even for enamelled steel. Stainless OTOH has taken over for cylinders. Or so a quick dive tells me.
  7.  
    Posted By: djhI think ordinary steel has been tried in the UK and found wanting. Rust and other corrosion, too heavy, various other failure modes and maintenance of anodes etc. Even for enamelled steel.

    OTOH I have an enamelled steel cylinder bought 25 years ago second hand still in use. When the build up of lime scale causes the failure of the heating element I change the base plate with anode and element, about every 5 - 6 years. But they are heavy to work with.

    Perhaps manufacturing quality plays a factor.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeJan 12th 2025
     
    My guess would be there are no large enameling plants/kilns in the UK. by comparison, copper and SS can fairly easily be fabricated.
  8.  
    >>>> "Over here... A 200 ltr tank is about 460 GBP"

    A large UK supplier lists 63 different 200 litre cylinders for sale, all of them stainless steel. Between £700-£1000 for a bare cylinder.

    We import boilers, taps, sinks, heat pumps, installers from all over Europe and beyond, so its surprising we don't import even just a few cheap steel enamel cylinders.

    Only reason I can think of, is that we have some regulation that they aren't allowed here for some reason. But I can't find it anywhere I looked.

    So is the Tesy legal over here?
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJan 12th 2025
     
    Posted By: WillInAberdeenOnly reason I can think of, is that we have some regulation that they aren't allowed here for some reason. But I can't find it anywhere I looked.
    There's a document titled WRAS Material Guidance that might have some relevance. Para 7.6 says:

    "Ceramic & vitreous enamel based products

    "Any of these products which do not contain organic ingredients, either because they are
    not present in the formulation or would have be lost due to firing or sintering should be
    tested for conformity with the requirements of clause 8 of BS 6920-1:2000/2014 in
    accordance with BS 6920-2.6 (extraction of metals). No other tests are required."

    I have no idea what the BS say, or whether the para is actually relevant?
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeJan 13th 2025
     
    A quick search shows vitreous enamelled cylinders are readily available in the UK. However one manufacturer I looked at says this:-

    "Our stainless steel heat pump cylinders option, which is designated the “GX” range. These are manufactured in 316L stainless steel, which is chemically pickled and passivated, giving the best corrosion resistance and life cycle costs for these water heaters. This range has better performance than our enamelled heat pump hot water units."
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJan 13th 2025 edited
     
    There's an interesting page at https://www.flexiheatuk.com/domestic-hot-water-storage-tank/ by a UK company that makes both enamelled and stainless water tanks.
    edit to add: there's an Australian page at https://www.energymatters.com.au/solar-hot-water/stainless-glass-tanks/ that discusses the relative merits of various types of tanks used with solar heating.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeJan 13th 2025
     
    Yes, interesting, that's the company I quoted above.
  9.  
    "About Us: Flexiheat UK Ltd,.. [are] the sole distributor for Kroll Energy products... The company’s head office is based 30 km northeast of Stuttgart."


    BS 6920 says how to test nonmetal plumbing components to check they don't leach chemicals or odours into the water. Would apply to vitreous coatings and also to plastic pipes and push fit fittings etc.

    No reason why enamel coatings shouldn't pass this test, though maybe the EU manufs can't be bothered with passing UK tests if the market is small here?
    • CommentAuthorNeesha
    • CommentTime3 days ago
     
    Quick update on installing a HWHP. The plumber who was up for it has referred to his "heat pump guy" and is now trying to talk me out of it and into an air to water ASHP. I've said I'm happy to take the risk of it not being optimal re performance (eg I won't complain if we run out of hot water, which I don't think we will) and would he install anyway. Now waiting to hear back.

    In the meantime I've found a company, Elite Renewables, who are happy to supply and install. They've said they've done a few. They are quoting £6,839 for install (0%VAT) of a Dimplex Edel. Seems quite a lot to me so will see if I can get better elsewhere. The unit itself is around £2300. I've now found that installing the Edel without external air ducting would void the guarantee so will be looking for for an alternative model like the Tesy anyway.
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