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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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    • CommentAuthormarsaday
    • CommentTimeMar 1st 2023
     
    I am fully renovating an attic flat that was possibly installed in 1985. That's when the house was converted, but this flat may have been done a little later on.

    Anyway i have taken out all the plasterboard ceiling and removed the 50mm PIR insulation between the rafters. The rafter depth is 85-90mm, so there was a decent breathing gap behind, but I think they may have pushed come insulation a bit too far into the slate area. There is no felt/membrane under the slates.

    I have damp rafters in most of the roof, some bits worse than others. Even some of the roof lats are damp in places.

    There was no vapour barrier and the insulation was not foil taped.

    My plan is to extend the rafter with a 50x25mm roof baton (done today) and then fit 75mm between the rafters and underboard with 50mm. Then i will foil tape the 50mm sheets up.

    There is a section of the flat where I cannot baton out so much, but rather can only add 10mm. In these areas i will have to use 70mm insulation between and underboard by 50mm. This mean in these two areas (bathroom and kitchen) the breathing gap will be 25-30mm. The rest of the flat will have 40-45mm.

    Will i have the same issue as before ? Should i be looking at introducing some breathing slates in the roof to get more air flow in there ?

    This photo shows the water staining on the rafter.
      flat 7 - 1.JPG
    • CommentAuthormarsaday
    • CommentTimeMar 1st 2023 edited
     
    this photo shows the bathroom on the left and the kitchen area at the far end. Sorry but i cannot rotate it
      flat 7 - 3.JPG
  1.  
    Isnt it going to always be a problem without any roof membrane?...especially if its in a windy area.
    • CommentAuthormarsaday
    • CommentTimeMar 1st 2023
     
    The roof isn’t leaking. It’s moisture from the inside that is the issue. It’s the condensation issue when insulation is involved.
    • CommentAuthorrevor
    • CommentTimeMar 2nd 2023
     
    My extension/ build has a slate roof, roofing membrane battened and slated. There are no slate vents we are in quite a windy area and the gaps between the slates allow sufficient ventilation BCO was happy and architect did not specify.

    I have insulated between rafters with 170 mm rock wool (have 225mm trusses )then 100mm PIR boarded over and taped. It is difficult to get good sealing between rafter and insulation so if you can overboard with rigid insulation with rockwool in between you will be able to get a well sealed ceiling. Duplex plasterboard to finish off.
    I am surprised that you have condensation as slates have lots off gaps between them allowing ventilation but having a kitchen and bathroom up there will add considerably to the humidity level I guess. Have you enough headroom to overboard? Don't know the feasibility of adding roofing felt between the rafters, could be fixed to the battens and down the edges of the rafters. Needs someone more knowledgeable than me on that one.
    • CommentAuthormarsaday
    • CommentTimeMar 2nd 2023
     
    No i cannot refelt, but it is not needed. I think the condensation issue was all down to poor vapour control.

    Got BC coming to give me some advise on the issue as it was not noticeable with the insulation in place the other week.

    Will def be underboarding so creating a better vapour layer.

    Just thought the clued up people on here might give me some pointers
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeMar 3rd 2023
     
    Better off with no sarking breather, make sure that the vapour control layer whatever and wherever it is is all joined up to the one in walls
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeMar 3rd 2023
     
    Yes, the problem will likely be the warm, moist air from inside hitting cold air/surface and condensing.

    A good tight vapour barrier will help. What about any warm air coming up from below in the eaves? There was a suggestion in a previous thread about using a spray foam insulation to seal and insulate a ceiling in a roof space.

    I'd also think that some ventilated slates wouldn't make things worse.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeMar 3rd 2023
     
    I would add soffit vents and ridge vents both sides of the ridge board, ideally a bit of insulated flat ceiling that allows cross and through ventilation.

    You can’t stop loft condensation by managing the humidity in the house
    • CommentAuthormarsaday
    • CommentTimeMar 3rd 2023
     
    The eaves will be insulated fully down to the wall plate. Instead of insulating the roof and then take the insulation down the eave walls I am doing the whole roof space. I saw Robin Clevett do this on his utube channel. He prefers to insulate the whole roof space, meaning the eaves storage is also warm.


    The flat roof is now a warm one. I have put 100mm insulation above the osb deck and redone the roof in fibreglass. So i cant now make it a breathing roof.

    Messing with the ridges will be hard. I think breathing slate vents will be a lot easier to fit.
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