Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition |
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These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment. PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book. |
Vanilla 1.0.3 is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.
Posted By: Mike1you could buy PHPP and do it yourself
Posted By: Dominic Cooneythere is a building close by either side (east and west) causing shadingEast and west shading can be helpful, because it's more difficult to design into a building.
Posted By: Gareth JI'd get rid of the lot
Posted By: Dominic CooneyAre you sure? I've caught suggestions, but have not in the end had need to find out definitively, that tho Planning relies on the building being still in 'convertable' state (i.e. not a rotten/roofless wreck which is considered to be no longer a building or even a footprint), yet once consented, you can in fact propose more drastic rebuilding, maybe as a supplementary application on visual appearance, but with conversion established in principle.Posted By: Gareth JI'd get rid of the lotsorry, not allowed due to planning - it has to be a conversion not a rebuild.
Posted By: Dominic CooneyI-joists for walls and roof (of the internal building) are looking favourable, but I haven't costed it up yet.I-joists are good, or you can make your own Larsen trusses. I don't know how the relative costs/convenience work out. Blown cellulose works well from my own experience. Slabs of EPS might give you fitting problems to ensure no gaps between slabs or onto the I-joists. Rockwool would be easier but needs holding up as it is fitted. Dunno about EPS beads.
Then what to insulate with? Blown cellulose? Blown graphite EPS beads? slabs of rockwool? slabs of Graphite EPS?
Also undecided about the interface between the internal building and the blockwork shell; whether to leave a drained cavity, or to apply tanking slurry to the blockwork on the inside and StormDry to the exterior (leaving no cavity)I would leave a narrow drainage cavity, and maybe tanking and/or stormdry as well. Belt and braces.
Posted By: djhyou can make your own Larsen trussesI would, but people (incl on here) keep saying that glue can't be relied upon structurally unless done on certified factory conditiions?
Posted By: fostertomSo use some nails as well?Posted By: djhyou can make your own Larsen trussesI would, but people (incl on here) keep saying that glue can't be relied upon structurally unless done on certified factory conditiions?
Posted By: djhI-joists are good, or you can make your own Larsen trusses. I don't know how the relative costs/convenience work out.
Posted By: djhI've just become aware that there is an add-on for PHPP called 'designPH' that will import sketchup drawings into PHPP. It costs £350. So there is that possibility.