As I've mentioned before, I use electric resistive heaters to heat my house, because of the low heat demand. I have two: a VEAB duct heater fitted after the MVHR unit, and a radiant heater in the hall. I'm looking for a replacement for the hall heater and not having much luck so far, so I'd appreciate any thoughts you may have.

The current heater is a Stiebel-Eltron IW 180. They don't seem to sell it any more but they do still sell a lower-rated version, the IW 120 < https://www.stiebel-eltron.co.uk/en/products-solutions/central_heating/electrical_heaters/small_heaters/iw/iw-120.html > (I use one of those in a wetroom.) The IW 180 is the same but has 600 W bars instead of 400 W bars. I chose it because it was simple and from a known brand.

It is powered from a fused timeswitch that switches on for the E7 hours from 00:30 to 07:30 when needed. I adjust how many bars are set to come on depending on what the house needs. So it's all manually controlled to date. The hall is on the cooler north side of the house, so the heater heats the hall and lobby and also the stairs and landing above. The MVHR spreads the heat around further.

It has worked pretty well, though the unit has one flaw. It is controlled by a pullcord - once for 600 W, twice for 1200 W, three times for 1800 W and four times turns it off again. But the pullcord exits through a hole punched in the casing that has rough edges, so over time it frays and eventually breaks. I'm getting fed up of dismantling the unit and cutting the cord a little shorter to repair it!

Lately the switch itself seems to becoming awkward, not always switching correctly. Hence my search for a replacement.

My problem is that products have changed (new regulations?) and are 'smart'. So for example I looked at a Dimplex product yesterday, but it is 'smart' and uses a proprietary phone app via wifi. It can't be controlled by a timeswitch because it forgets its network connection details if it loses power :( Other products are only designed for intermittent use or only for outdoor use (whatever that really means?).

So if anybody has ideas as to suitable products or arrangements, I'm eager to hear them.

We actively resisted all things 'smart' on our build but ultimately ended up conceding on the radiators with these electric panel heaters which are very simple, albeit still app controlled:

https://millnorway.com/product/mill-invisible-wifi-panel-heater-400w/

As far as I recall they do retain the network connection details even when switched to 'off' in the summer, but I admit I've not checked to see if this is actually just a standby mode with vampire loads.

Either way, no complaints/regrets from us but I realise it may not be what you're looking for.

<blockquote><cite>Posted By: djh</cite>But the pullcord exits through a hole punched in the casing that has rough edge</blockquote>

I have similar problem with other equipment over the years. My solution was to drill a hole where the cord emerges and fit a rubber grommet. You can get small diameter grommets from anywhere that sells components for electronic assembly /experimenters alternatively cut a piece out of an electrical box grommet.

https://www.bitsboxuk.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=grommets

These aren't cheap but are reputable and look nice:
https://www.herschel-infrared.co.uk/infrared-heating-panels/

They can be used as either smart heaters with a connected thermostat or dumb heaters with another thermostat/timer.

Posted By: owlmanHad you thought of buying a standard wet CH radiator

That sounds like adding complication for no reason?

Posted By: revorMy solution was to drill a hole where the cord emerges and fit a rubber grommet.

Yes, I've thought about neatening the hole and putting a grommet in. I did try the easier option of putting heat shrink tubing around the pullcord where it exits the case, but they've helpfully made the pullcord from something that disintegrates/becomes very weak when heated (polyester?) So I just got more annoyed with it.

Posted By: philedgeThe switch in the existing unit will likely be available on its own if you want to swap that out. Likely only a few £

Could well be, but they've used up my goodwill and I just want rid of it now.

<blockquote><cite>Posted By: djh</cite>They don't seem to do 'indoor' models above about 1200 W? I've looked at their patio heaters before - the Miami and the California 2000 - but they are high-power only. They don't seem to do anything that's got adjustable output. Well except by thermostat, which is not what I need.</blockquote>

If you need over 1 kW have you considered an A2A heat a pump (SCOP should be about 4)?

I'm pretty convinced a heat pump isn't worth it, but if anybody wants to try to convince me then by all means have a go. What do you need to know?

There's no wet heating system, so I'd probably be looking at air-air. The PHPP TFA is 148 m², so the max continuous heat load is 1480 W and the total heat used in a year is 2220 kWh. I presently heat only during the E7 hours overnight.

edit to add: My present strategy is to have two independent heaters, each of which could cope if necessary, but most of the time I just use one. I suppose my annual heating bill is currently £314.

How many years do you want to cost it over, 5? or 10? , would cooling be of any interest?

Posted By: tonyHow many years do you want to cost it over, 5? or 10? , would cooling be of any interest?

I'll listen to a plan for any number of years. Cooling might be interesting and would provide a definite motivation, but the climate hasn't got that bad yet.

Posted By: WillInAberdeenIf you really want a heatpump, get a heatpump!

I don't particularly want a heat pump. They seem like extra complication as expressed well by revor. But I'm willing to listen to persuasive arguments.

If anybody knows of any good 'dumb' heaters, I'd rather hear about them.

Why not a £46 Lidl floorstanding convector? Has a thermostat of sorts.

It was mentioned the heater is connected to a fused timeswitch - that could be used, or replaced by a 'smarter' one, without touching the wiring in the heater. Leave the heater mechanical switch set to max, and use the smart FCU to turn it on/off in bursts of eg 20, 40 or 60minutes each hour, depending how much heat is needed.

I have previously hacked/bypassed the switch in a panel heater, need to be mindful not to bypass the thermal safety cutout.

Posted By: WillInAberdeenIt was mentioned the heater is connected to a fused timeswitch - that could be used, or replaced by a 'smarter' one, without touching the wiring in the heater. Leave the heater mechanical switch set to max, and use the smart FCU to turn it on/off in bursts of eg 20, 40 or 60minutes each hour, depending how much heat is needed.

Yes, that's another possibility, thanks.

Posted By: Simon StillThe nice thing about the Shelly stuff is that it seems to be completely open - theres no need to flash it to control via your own system and theres a well documented API.

Ah many thanks. I've just ordered a Plus 2PM on the basis of experimenting, but I hadn't yet found any documentation or examples, so that's very handy!