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| Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition |
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These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment. PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book. |
Vanilla 1.0.3 is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.
Posted By: kristevais this something I could DIY myselfAIUI, the main factor in whether you can install it (apart from any planning or building regs issues?) is whether you need F-gas certification (or any other certification?) to connect the refrigerant pipes. This obviously depends on what refrigerant is used, and what type of unit it is. Split units or mini-splits will require a connection. Old fashioned through-window types won't.
Posted By: Doubting_ThomasHello kristeva,
I don't have any sort of heat pump, but to improve the response you get from those in the know, I think you probably ought to include some information about the existing building fabric (walls, roof, slab).
Whilst the (internal?) insulation will help improve u-values, to get a more accurate picture of your heating demand it would be better to include something for the basic elements first.
Photos & plans/elevations would be a bonus.
You might want to try out the Heat Punk website to get a better idea of the factors involved in sizing a heat pump and the expected running costs etc.
https://heatpunk.co.uk/home" rel="nofollow" >https://heatpunk.co.uk/home
No affiliation (or guarantees!), I just like the simplicity of the interface.
Posted By: djhPosted By: kristevais this something I could DIY myselfAIUI, the main factor in whether you can install it (apart from any planning or building regs issues?) is whether you need F-gas certification (or any other certification?) to connect the refrigerant pipes. This obviously depends on what refrigerant is used, and what type of unit it is. Split units or mini-splits will require a connection. Old fashioned through-window types won't.
Posted By: RobLYou can get a few r290 units that are legal to diy. And there are ‘in room’ units, like oversize radiators with two large holes for external airflow - these will be noisier than the standard approach though. A pro split a/c install is however not that expensive, so unless you’re experienced or super keen, best to get a pro. I suggest don’t buy a unit; find a f-gas a/c installer, let them buy and fit what they’re used to.
Posted By: sgt_wouldsFor IWI a WUFI calculation is a useful check
Posted By: kristevaI've had feedback that its not actually as economical as a gas boiler
Posted By: Peter_in_HungaryI don't have a heat pump but I have read up 'cos that is the direction to go when my wood burner boiler expires.
As far as I can see most of the bad press about heat pumps is because they have been under spec'd.
Your plan of 9" brick with 80 mm WF doesn't give a very good U value. A quick calc. showed U = 0.43 with a condensation risk if it is IWI. I don't like the idea of organic materials as EWI unless there is a good rain screen outboard. e.g. timber cladding. WF as IWI I would be concerned about damp joists = rot unless you can guarantee a v. good VCL, not that easy.
9" brick with 100 mm EPS gives U = 0.33 and with 150 mm EPS U = 0.23 (both as EWI)
If the window frames are in good nick then IMO not worth changing. (If you were thinking of that).
Posted By: sgt_wouldsInternal wall insulation will move the dew point within the construction and this may cause issues with the existing structure. The external stone or brickwork and pointing will need to be assessed and repaired if in poor order to reduce the passage of moisture to what will become a colder wall.
Standard U-value calculations will not correctly account for the sorption properties of wood fibres nor their ability to pass on liquid water through capillary action. This means they will always show condensation risk.
For IWI a WUFI calculation is a useful check - this purely considers moisture issues and how the various elements of the building fabric will deal with the moisture volumes based on site-specific conditions. Working for a company that makes WF IWI, I always recommend a WUFI assessment for any internal insulation works.
Having said that, we have conducted multiple real-world measured tests of IWI in various exposure zones and the actual risk of condensation is very low as long as underlying sources of dampness have been ameliorated before installation. This applies to most natural insulations, but woodfibre in particular has been found to reduce the moisture content of damp structural timbers due to its sorption properties.
If it’s of interest, the ASBP have a webinar on natural IWI:https://asbp.org.uk/webinar-recording/rethinking-iwi-with-natural-fibre-insulation" rel="nofollow" >https://asbp.org.uk/webinar-recording/rethinking-iwi-with-natural-fibre-insulation
Despite the scaremongering, there is no issue with woodfibre for external insulation. Our own WF boards for EWI have a hydrophobic coating that allows them to be used behind a rainscreen (or roof tiles) without any additional membranes. When directly rendered they are incredibly robust and weatherproof. Due to the WF density they tend to resist external damage better than EPS insulations more commonly used.
Like any type of weatherproofing, they are only as good as the installation and ongoing maintenance allow!
