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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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  1.  
    We have just moved into a 1960's detached property

    Gravity fed system, gas sytem boiler and hot water cylinder (looks lightly insulated)

    Am I right in syaing we should adjust the stat to 50c based on the top exit pipe temperature? Would you then heat it twice a day? Say 5am and 5pm? I have a FLIR camera I can base the temperature on?

    The ultimate aim is to replace the system with an ASHP at a later date after insulation, windows etc. etc.

    Thanks
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJun 1st 2024 edited
     
    If it was me I would set it to something and then adjust the something as I found necessary to deal with my particular circumstances. But your suggestions seem like a reasonable starting point. A lot depends on how many of you there are and when you shower. Plus how big the cylinder is etc.
    • CommentAuthorMike1
    • CommentTimeJun 2nd 2024 edited
     
    Posted By: Victorianecoadjust the stat to 50c
    Guidance on the topic is rather confused, but once the stat goes below 60°C, then you may want to think about intermittent boosting to minimise the legionella risk. However the risks are very low domestically because, with the possible exception of showers, the water is rarely atomised.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJun 2nd 2024
     
    I would insulate the cylinder and pipe work fully . Run at 50C 24/7
  2.  
    It surely depends on how many baths etc you expect to get from a tankful of hot water, how hot you like your bath, and your bathing preferences.

    I like a hot bath, and to be able to top it up at intervals. If you fill the bath with tepid water from the start then you have to endure it slowly getting colder, and no really hot water available from the hot tap.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJun 7th 2024
     
    the hotter you store it the greater the heat losses and costs
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJun 7th 2024
     
    But the requirements are the requirements, and if they include hotter storage then so be it. In my own case the extra heat comes from my solar panels, so in some sense is 'free' (although there are other senses in which it is not free, of course :)
  3.  
    What would be the best way to insulate the cylinder? It currently has what appears to be about 200 litres.

    It is 120cm high and 50cm diameter

    Or am I better off buying a new cylinder ready for when I switch to ashp....
  4.  
    We have a cylinder that came ready-coated with several inches of sprayed foam insulation, to replace the old uninsulated cylinder that was wrapped in a series of very then floppy plastic bags tied with string.
    Before the change the airing cupboard was hot. Now it doesn't feel any warmer than anywhere else in the house.
    I don't think there can be any significant heat losses.

    Of course the hot pipes are uninsulated, but the heat isn't really lost - it's still in the house.
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