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Housing - Renovation: 18mm Floorboard options

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1 to 28 of 28

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  1.  
    We have 18mm t&g solid timber boards which we are taking out to require and replumb the upstairs.

    What would you replace with? 18mm OSB? 18MM P5 boards?

    Also a good option to perhaps fit underfloor heating spreader plates?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJul 8th 2024
     
    Reuse the existing floorboards !
  3.  
    Take then up carefully and reuse.
    If you are strapped for cash then take them up carefully and sell them and then use either P5 or OSB. If you are paying someone to relay the P5 or OSB will be cheaper to lay.
    (reclaimed t&g floor boards are 20 - 30 quid / m2)
  4.  
    These are 40mm planks that have been secret nailed with 3" nails. These won't be salvageable unfortunately
    • CommentAuthorJonti
    • CommentTimeJul 8th 2024
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: Victorianeco</cite>These are 40mm planks that have been secret nailed with 3" nails. These won't be salvageable unfortunately</blockquote>

    Use a multitool to cut through the nails and reuse the T&G
  6.  
    40mm t&g planks that have been secret nailed - so no nail holes on the top - Hmm there will be a queue at the door!!
  7.  
    You can also fit UFH spreader plates from below with a different type of plate. Called “fit from belowâ€
    Just a thought.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeJul 9th 2024
     
    18mm x 40mm T&G; what a strange size?...........Secret 3" nailed on every joist ( 100s of 'em ) ? You are going to need a big bag full of multitool blades to get through that lot.
    • CommentAuthorGareth J
    • CommentTimeJul 9th 2024
     
    A 1mm cutting disc on a small angle grinder will be quicker/easier/less consumables heavy than a multi tool, once you have access. But dirtier.

    As painful as it is, I can see why you may decide that total loss is the most cost effective/practical solution.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJul 9th 2024
     
    I have taken up similar floors by easing up several of the boards (six) at a time, once the nails of the first four are out of the joists each board seperates from its neighbour with it nails still in it, then lift the next section.
  11.  
    A quick dip into salvaged pine floor boards on the internet showed a price of 60 - 75 quid / m2. Perhaps a architectural salvage firm would give you an offer to remove and take away. That way you don't get the work of removal and get a bit of cash into the bargain.
    • CommentAuthorJonti
    • CommentTimeJul 13th 2024
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: owlman</cite>18mm x 40mm T&G; what a strange size?...........Secret 3" nailed on every joist ( 100s of 'em ) ? You are going to need a big bag full of multitool blades to get through that lot.</blockquote>

    40mm is a very unusual size but if correct then doubtful it will have a nail in every joist with every plank. Yu should manage to get at least 25 nails done with each blade and this would leave the boards in good condition. Much more cost effective than replacing and much greener as well (That is the main theme of this site after all). Having said that, Tony is correct. Once you get the first few up the rest will lift no problem so you should be fine with two or three blade max,
  13.  
    It's all up now (in one room)

    I think I'm going to tackle the rest of the project from the underside. I think ceiling wills be easier to redo than the T&G floors. We shall see
    • CommentAuthorwookey
    • CommentTimeAug 18th 2024
     
    If fitting over UFH plates, I'd use Hideck overlay 18, or screedboard 20 from Cellecta. It's very tough, T&G edges to avoid differential movement, and quite conductive for good UFH heat transfer, but not 'tile cold'.
  15.  
    Is T&G essential for 18mm OSB or can you just use OSB in sheet format?
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeAug 22nd 2024
     
    On a noggin, either timber or 100x0.7mm dryliner's galv flatstrap PK screwed @ frequent intervals
  17.  
    Posted By: VictorianecoIs T&G essential for 18mm OSB or can you just use OSB in sheet format?


    Posted By: wookeyT&G edges to avoid differential movement

    +1
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeAug 23rd 2024
     
    Often at edges/corners you can't keep T&G going - have to cut and butt - then noggins essential underneath. In fact, plain edge sheet is fine, as long as all edges are nogged, much fewer edges if 8x4 sheets, and the flatstrap, as I described, is dead easy compared to timber noggins.
  19.  
    Do you have a link to said flatstrap?

    I did think full size sheets would be faster and easier and then cut to joists or noggins. Some guidance suggests putting noggins for all the long edges also? Not sure why that would be needed even at perimeters?
  20.  
    On UK spacings of joists with T&G I don't use noggings, with square edged boards noggins on unsupported edges are needed
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeAug 23rd 2024
     
    Posted By: VictorianecoDo you have a link to said flatstrap?
    https://ceilinganddryliningsupplies.co.uk/products/0130000000844
    or get galv sheet sliced up. For other purposes like plasterboard or sheathing noggins to stud walls/raftering, ditto bent lengthwise to required angle (e.g. eave) is useful - can eliminate much timber that's only there to nail boards to.
  22.  
    Great thankyou

    Am I right in saying that when using 2400 x 600 t&g OSB I would use these straps under the 2400 section, even if they are locked in and the joists are only 400mm centres?

    The Sterling technical data doesn't seem to suggest this, but it does say:
    The following general fixing
    instructions should be noted:
    • Panels must be laid with long
    edges at 90° to supports and
    short edge joints must be
    staggered.
    • All short edges must be
    supported on joists/studs
    or noggins.
    • Panel edges must bear approx.
    18mm onto joists.
    • Nailing must be at least 8mm
    from the panel edges.
    • All T&G joints should be glued
    with a PVA adhesive.
    • Panels should be fixed using
    approx. 3mm ring-shank nails
    or screws whose length is 2.5
    times the thickness of the panel
    in flooring or 50mm in roofing.
    • Whilst not essential, gluing of
    the panels to joists increases
    the stiffness and strength of
    the structure. Additionally
    gluing can help reduce any
    potential squeaks or creaks.
    We recommend you use our
    NoSqueak glue.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeAug 24th 2024
     
    Posted By: Victorianecousing 2400 x 600 t&g OSB I would use these straps
    Such flatstraps shouldn't be needed with T&G boards, except poss instead of timber noggins in awkward corners etc, where there are butt joints.
  24.  
    Posted By: fostertomhttps://ceilinganddryliningsupplies.co.uk/products/0130000000844
    or get galv sheet sliced up.

    How are these flat straps fixed to the boards, straps presumably placed on the underside of the boards (????) and perhaps fixed from the top with self tapping screws (like plasterboard with metal studs) or what ?
  25.  
    Posted By: VictorianecoThe Sterling technical data doesn't seem to suggest this, but it does say:
    The following general fixing
    instructions should be noted:
    .............
    • All short edges must be supported on joists/studs or noggins.

    Yes - stagger the short ends and glue the joints
    but I have never put noggins under the short ends and I haven't had any problems with that.

    I have always use screws, never nails.
  26.  
    Perfect, thanks gents

    While the floor is up, should I parge coat the outer wall ( where now exposed) or will the cavity bead take care of any potential air leakage?
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeAug 24th 2024 edited
     
    Posted By: Peter_in_HungaryHow are these flat straps fixed to the boards
    Plonked in place across the joists, couple of screws to hold in place, boards laid fixed as normal to the joists, the straight joints central on the flatstraps, edges gapfilled glued. PK (self tapping) screws thro the boards 25 in from the butt joint, at close c/cs, pulling the flatstrap tight up to the boards' underside. The flatstrap doesn't support the boards, just connects one to the next, like T&G does.

    Even better, apply gapfilling glue to the top of the flatstrap as well, before dropping the boards onto them, provided you can pull the PK screws tight while the glue is still 'open'. That's what we do when similarly fixing straight-edge 11OSB3 or 12 ply to studs/rafter soffits as sheathing that forms the airtight layer.
    • CommentAuthorwookey
    • CommentTimeAug 24th 2024
     
    Posted By: VictorianecoPerfect, thanks gents

    While the floor is up, should I parge coat the outer wall ( where now exposed) or will the cavity bead take care of any potential air leakage?


    Parge it, (or seal plasterboard pieces in). Cavity beads don't make things airtight. And in my experience there are a lot of holes in the bit betwixt ceiling and floorboards, including missing bricks, and big gaps around joists.
    e.g. http://wookware.org/house/retrofit/pics/html/114-joist-air-gap.jpeg.html
    or at the very least small gaps because they have shrunk a bit.

    So some taping: http://wookware.org/house/retrofit/pics/html/117-kitchenjoist-after.jpeg.html
    or Tony-style plasterboard+tape: http://wookware.org/house/retrofit/pics/html/115-joist-taping.jpeg.html
    is in order.

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