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Housing - Renovation: Reclaiming 18mm x 55mm T&G Boards (Canadian). Tips?

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    I have decided given input from others to keep the 18mm T&G and reinstate.

    Here is a picture:
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jxpTRm2d6wZrf4xsZZ0Pg8Q_faVWeM_v/view?usp=drivesdk

    I'd imagine they need denailing and planing/sanding/machining. Does anyone have some quick methods?

    The timber is MADE IN CANADA AURENTIDE, I think it is a maple?
    • CommentAuthorGreenPaddy
    • CommentTimeJul 10th 2024
     
    That's "proper flooring" - I had been imagining standard softwood boards. I'd consider not lifting it at all. Take down parts/all of your ceilings and work from below, then re-plasterboard it. A bit messy, yes, but you can live in a house with ugly ceilings for a while, not so easy having missing floors. Also a lot cheaper I would bet. When we build new or renovate, the floors always go down first, then services in the ceiling voids from below and then plasterboarding. Follow that same process?
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeJul 10th 2024
     
    Yes, without seeing it you're most likely right, It's strip maple also very likely secret nailed with a flooring nailer using the correct flooring nails, of a long, thin, flat, serrated edge triangular form, and a bu..er to get out without splitting the wood and rendering it useless.
    IMO it looks quality and best to refinish it, if necessary too, what I've found with Maple, is to introduce a humidifier in the room to even out seasonal shrinkage; healthier for you too.
    If you go for a re-finish, unless you have the proper kit, pay the pro's to do it. You won't be able to hire the good kit that the best guys have, in order to produce that flawless finish. The DIY hire shop sanders aren't up to it IMO.
    • CommentAuthorrevor
    • CommentTimeJul 10th 2024
     
    I agree I would leave in situ lifting and relaying will be fraught with damage and will not go back as you would like. I have used reclaimed maple in a bathroom in my last house (came from a a mill that was being demolished. Had lots of marks scuffs etc which added some character to the floor. Had to do a lot of repair work to the T&G which had been damaged when contactors lifted it as it would not lay flat. Think I finished it with polyurethane yacht varnish or similar and it was a very hardwearing finish easy to clean. So do not lift it if you can.
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      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeJul 10th 2024
     
    Ah those. I had some, which came up quite easily. I thought they'd go back down nicely, but somehow they wouldn't mate up well - had tapered multi-t&g'd edges which I think had too many pinch points from dimensional change while down. Leave in place if poss.
  6.  
    For my ground floor (~40m2)

    I'd like to take up the floor to get the void insulated and put the radiator pipes in

    If I do manage to get it up whole what would be the best way to finish the floor? Can I get a machine planer/finisher and run them all through to take off the top layer as opposed to sanding?
    .
    I can't think of a way to insulate the floor effectively without taking it up.... Pumping beads sounds great but I'd imagine blowing anything in from the edges will be dusty and I don't get enough pressure to fill it evenly?
    • CommentAuthorrevor
    • CommentTimeNov 17th 2024
     
    Posted By: VictorianecoIf I do manage to get it up whole what would be the best way to finish the floor? Can I get a machine planer/finisher and run them all through to take off the top layer as opposed to sanding?


    You could do it with a thicknesser there are small portable ones available these days. You would need to make sure
    there were no nails tacks etc in the timber as they will nick the blades and cause ridges in your board. If blades are not sharp or you feed too fast you will get ripples across the width which you will then need to sand. You may be able to hire one. If you do a lot of woodworking you would want one of your own. Thicknessing sanders are available but they are expensive and take some setting up.

    https://www.axminstertools.com/instantsearch/result/?q=thicknesser
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeNov 17th 2024
     
    Until you know how it's been fixed to the joists it's hard to give advice. If they have been fixed with e.g. a nailer/pinner with straight pins you may be able to prise them up. If it's been a traditional hand nailer the chances of removing them intact is remote. Once up, getting them re-finished and down again will, be an absolute pain.
    If you're worried about pumped insulation coverage why not cut a few nicely spaced access hatches, pump insulation from several places, and then make up some "drop in" covers. I've done this sort of thing for cable access. Once done then re-finish the floor in situ. There are other alternatives dependent on your woodworking skill level and decent equipment, anything rather than lift the floor IMO.
  9.  
    Posted By: owlmananything rather than lift the floor

    +1

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