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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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    • CommentAuthorstonecold
    • CommentTimeSep 8th 2024
     
    Some questions about the nitty gritty details on diathonite...

    How long does Diathonite Evolution need to dry between layers?

    What about for the final layer (before a colored lime based render goes over)?
    And how long for drying any extra built-up needed to level walls in certain areas?

    If it makes a difference it's going on stone with bits of slate and rubble, externally, 2 layers.

    A small area is also being done internally where existing plaster will be removed first, with lime plaster finish over the top.

    Second unrelated question - anyone do Diathonite right down to ground level rather than having an XPS plinth at the bottom? Wondering how that works out long term especially in areas with high rain fall. House has good drainage channels at the base of the walls. No viable DPC.
  1.  
    I have never used Diathonite but Green Building Store/Company have. They may be able to comment. Have a look for their blogs too, and that of Lois at Lune Retrofit. I would not use it right down to the ground, but I have used (somewhat breathable) high density EPS instead of XPS (in the wrong circ XPS can hold water against the wall rather than keeping it out). This method counts as experimental and is not proven in the long term. Do your own research!
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeSep 9th 2024
     
    Their documents say 12 to 24 hours between coats, and I'd expect similar for a lime render coat on top. "Leather hard" is a description sometimes used for how dry/hard lime should be. Don't forget the importance of keying, both onto the original wall and between coats. Scratching the surface is a common technique.
    • CommentAuthorstonecold
    • CommentTimeSep 10th 2024
     
    thanks @djh - That's the recoat time. I've seen the main Lune Retrofit article not nothing more detailed, there's a few others around online too without the finer details.

    The specs further on say 10-15 days at 23C 50% humidity ?? - well those conditions last half an hour per year max, if at all up here... so how long it's going to take at 17C, 70% ???? humidity I don't know. Also it's not clear if it's longer for a second coat. Then there's the initial leveling plus the render top coat. EWI is going on at something like 55mm so way thicker than the top coat. Looks likely to be a long haul given the (GBS) info here https://www.weare21degrees.co.uk/guides/lower-royd-radical-retrofit-its-a-wrap/ so I was hoping someone here might have a ballpark figure.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeSep 11th 2024
     
    I thought you were interested in the times between coats, but now you're asking about the final cure time?

    On https://www.buildinglimesforum.org.uk/some-dos-and-donts-in-the-use-of-lime-mortars/ it says "The optimum curing conditions for hydraulic limes are 15-20°C and a Relative Humidity (RH) of 55-85%." So don't worry about the rarity of 23°C :cool: The main thing is to avoid temperatures under 5°C and to keep the wall damp whilst it is curing.

    It's the overall thickness that determines cure time. All my experience has been with air lime, and I had an expert making all the decisions, but I'm a bit surprised how long it takes NHL to cure; I always thought it was a lot faster. But I suppose concrete takes 28 days, yes?

    I don't think Diathonite is anything special in this regard. You can just rely on details for NHL 3.5 lime.
    • CommentAuthorstonecold
    • CommentTimeSep 22nd 2024
     
    Thanks @djh

    Diathonite is cork, lime, sand and I forgot what else... it says it dries/cures more quickly than regular lime. It's between 55 and 60mm thick (3-4 layers) so we will have to see how it goes but final layer goes on this week and then the render.

    It's actually pretty dry because the scaffolding is shielding it from rain and we have had a surprisingly dry spell.

    So far it looks (and smells) more like damp sand but it's supposed to dry to light grey. Hopefully I will come back with an update once it's fully cured.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeSep 23rd 2024
     
    Posted By: stonecoldIt's actually pretty dry because the scaffolding is shielding it from rain and we have had a surprisingly dry spell.
    Don't forget to spray it to keep the surface damp whilst its drying. Allowing the surface to dry too quickly is a real problem.
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