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			<title>Green Building Forum - External destratification pump on CH cylinder</title>
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		<title>External destratification pump on CH cylinder</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18272&amp;Focus=307907#Comment_307907</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 08 Mar 2025 16:44:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>owlman</author>
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			<![CDATA[Has anyone had experience of this type of set up. I was wondering if "churning" the water in order to get a more even store temperature was successful. If so what type of pump was used.]]>
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		<title>External destratification pump on CH cylinder</title>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 08 Mar 2025 20:21:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>djh</author>
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			<![CDATA[Normally tanks are designed with the heater at the bottom so they don't need destratifying?]]>
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		<title>External destratification pump on CH cylinder</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18272&amp;Focus=307913#Comment_307913</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 09 Mar 2025 10:00:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>owlman</author>
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			<![CDATA[Sadly, this one's in the middle]]>
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		<title>External destratification pump on CH cylinder</title>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 09 Mar 2025 16:31:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>GreenPaddy</author>
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			<![CDATA[Can I just check that the reason you want to de-strat, is so you can make use of the volume below the heating input device (immersion/coil), and have more energy potential in the cyl?<br /><br />My first thought would be to make use of the exiting CH pump, additional pipework to short circuit the CH system immed back to the cyl with a simple control set up based on your particular energy timings.<br /><br />If you can do a simple sketch of the cyl and connections, or a labelled photo, maybe we could advise further.]]>
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		<title>External destratification pump on CH cylinder</title>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 09 Mar 2025 17:24:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>djh</author>
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			<![CDATA[That's a good question. Is it a DHW tank or a CH tank or combined?]]>
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		<title>External destratification pump on CH cylinder</title>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 09 Mar 2025 17:29:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>owlman</author>
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			<![CDATA[Hi David, Yes, I'm re-purposing my large steel 2000l accumulator/buffer tank which is part of my log-gas biomass system.<br /> Last year I re-used a spare 2" BSP port about halfway up the tank ( which is about 7' high ). I had made a 6kW immersion split into 2 x 3kW for flexibility. Each is wired onto a timer to take advantage of cheap tariff. <br /><br />This set up has allowed me to cut down on log firings. I've found another 1.5" BSP port that I can also repurpose on the other side of the tank. My thought was to fit another 3 or 6kW immersion at the other side.<br />Obviously this is only heating the top half of the tank, albeit very effectively. <br /><br />My idea was to use a couple of 1/2" BSP, unused stat ports, at the top and bottom of the tank and simply link them with a small circulating pump, either manual or on timer too. This is simple enough to do and I'm currently looking what would be the best type of circulating pump to use, esp. the flow rates. Not too high I would have thought.<br /><br />It'd be inconvenient to use the current CH pump, plus a bit of copper and a low capacity pump I thought would cheaply do the job and give me  a few hundred liters of usable CH water each day in winter, and maybe even ditch the log burner. <br />I know the principle is used in other storage vessels often for potable water.]]>
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		<title>External destratification pump on CH cylinder</title>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 09 Mar 2025 19:04:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Peter_in_Hungary</author>
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			<![CDATA[I would of thought that a cheap CH pump between the two 1/2" stat ports would fit the bill nicely. For controls I would start off by connecting it to the same circuit that switches on the central immersion heater 'cos it is when this has power is when you want to de-stratify.<br /><br />Note - The stat ports on my TS are closed, that is they are just pockets and the stat sensors don't get wet. If yours are the same then you will have to run a drill through them]]>
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		<title>External destratification pump on CH cylinder</title>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 09 Mar 2025 19:51:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>owlman</author>
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			<![CDATA[Hi Peter, same here, the two stat ports I use are pocketed ones but the two I'd planned to use are currently plugged off and the original instructions are unclear as to their possible use. I may be lucky when I drain down and find they are open.]]>
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		<title>External destratification pump on CH cylinder</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18272&amp;Focus=307919#Comment_307919</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Mar 2025 09:54:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>WillInAberdeen</author>
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			<![CDATA[Do you have a laddomat or similar loading system for the biomass boiler? This could be used in a couple of ways <br /><br />1) connect an external electric heater in series with the boiler, use that the same as you do with the boiler so the laddomat heats the whole tank volume while maintaining stratification . Then the hot tap still runs hot even when the tank is nearly "empty" of heat.<br /><br />2) use the pump in the laddomat to pump cold water from the base of the tank round through the boiler and return to the top, where it will sink past the internal immersions and be heated. This might need a mod to the laddomat thermostat plunger, sure I saw instructions for this online somewhere.<br /><br /><br />If you do connect a new pump then no need to use the stat ports, just tee into the cold water feed pipe and the hot water outlet pipe, near to their respective connectors to the tank.<br /><br /><br />FWIW the Mixergy hi-tech tanks use their external PHE pump to destratify when connected to a heat pump, so the HP 'sees' a colder flow and runs more efficiently. Not relevant for an immersion tho.]]>
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		<title>External destratification pump on CH cylinder</title>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Mar 2025 12:36:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>owlman</author>
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			<![CDATA[Hi Will, thanks, your third suggestion  would be the most relevant in this case. My CH system has three zones, two used and a third dormant one waiting for me to do a loft conversion. I suppose I could add a fourth "zone" ( namely the tank itself ) using the existing main flow and return pipes.<br />I had considered this but the downside would be the need to install a shut off on the main return to prevent pushing hot water back up that return. In itself not too difficult but the likelihood of forgetting and also having to mess with shut offs each day. <br />I still feel that simple is best and cheapest, and if it goes pear shaped then its not too costly. I have 22mm copper and fittings already, then it's only a couple of iron tank couplings plus a pump and unions. Downside is having to drain the tank which has inhibitor in it.<br />I still can't figure out though what would be best regarding pump flow direction. Hot top to cold bottom, or cold to hot. That's where the whole plan may go awry. I also have to consider pump types especially impeller material in view of potential high temperatures, plus as I mentioned flow rates.]]>
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		<title>External destratification pump on CH cylinder</title>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Mar 2025 20:03:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Peter_in_Hungary</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: owlman</cite>Downside is having to drain the tank which has inhibitor in it.</blockquote><br />I've seen an immersion heater in the bottom of a tank changed 'hot' that is without draining the tank. The vent was blocked up (the only place that air could get in) and then the immersion heater was unscrewed and the new one put in  - quickly. I was surprised at how little water came out, a couple of blubs and that was it, nothing that could not be managed with a towel. In your situation you could make a fitting to replace the plug e.g a male threaded piece of pipe to replace the plug with a tap on the end - turned off -, put sealant on the fitting then remove the plug and quickly replace with the fitting.once done you can put what ever you want on the outboard end of the tap. (ditto the top connection) If you get it wrong then the you will get drips which may need a drain down but you were going to do that anyway. (you are a brave man if the TS is upstairs with a carpeted landing and stairs) <br /><br />   <br /><br /><blockquote ><cite >Posted By: owlman</cite>I still can't figure out though what would be best regarding pump flow direction. Hot top to cold bottom, or cold to hot. That's where the whole plan may go awry. I also have to consider pump types especially impeller material in view of potential high temperatures, plus as I mentioned flow rates.</blockquote><br />If you use a standard cheapo CH pump with the usual 3 speeds then you can experiment with flow rates and for direction - well the CH pumps have ball valves each end to facilitate changing so you can turn the pump around easily. Flow rates can also be varied by throttling the ball valve on the pump. CH pumps will also stand heat up to the old fashioned CH flow rate temps of about 80 deg. Its probably easier to experiment than to try and calculate or over think the project.]]>
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		<title>External destratification pump on CH cylinder</title>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Mar 2025 21:52:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Mike1</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: Peter_in_Hungary</cite>I've seen an immersion heater in the bottom of a tank changed 'hot' that is without draining the tank.</blockquote>Then I'm guessing that a Hungarian immersion heater boss is rather smaller than those normally used in the UK. You definitely don't want to try changing one of them without draining it down - I've seen someone try :)]]>
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		<title>External destratification pump on CH cylinder</title>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Mar 2025 23:44:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Peter_in_Hungary</author>
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			<![CDATA[It was a 1 1/2" thread 3kW immersion heater that went in horizontally at the bottom of the cylinder.<br /><a href="https://heilmann.hu/spd/3033-14/Heizer-Hajdu-bojler-STA-kompakt-futobetet-6-4-3000?utm_source=olcsobbat&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=olcsobbat_shopping_heilmann_haztartasi_gep_alkatresz&utm_source=olcsobbat&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=olcsobbat_shopping_heilmann_haztartasi_gep_alkatresz&gad_source=1" target="_self" rel="nofollow">https://heilmann.hu/spd/3033-14/Heizer-Hajdu-bojler-STA-kompakt-futobetet-6-4-3000?utm_source=olcsobbat&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=olcsobbat_shopping_heilmann_haztartasi_gep_alkatresz&utm_source=olcsobbat&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=olcsobbat_shopping_heilmann_haztartasi_gep_alkatresz&gad_source=1</a><br /><br />Pipe threads here are quoted  in multiples of 1/4" so 1 1/2" = 6/4"<br /><br />So yes a bit smaller than what I remember going into the top of a copper cylinder in the UK]]>
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		<title>External destratification pump on CH cylinder</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Mar 2025 08:45:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>WillInAberdeen</author>
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			<![CDATA[I would heat up the top part of the tank as normal, so you have a secure supply of hot available. <br /><br />Then detect when its hot with a stat near the top. That starts the pump to move some hot water down to the bottom, to mix the tank a little (not too much or you'll have no hot water available!), so the immersion can keep running. <br /><br />Don't pump cold water the other way into your lovely hot reserve at the top.<br /><br /><br />If the immersion can't keep up and the top of the tank gets too cold, the stat will stop the pump, until the immersion catches up again.<br /><br />Finally the tank will be hot all the way to the bottom, so a second stat down there detects this and stops the pump.<br /><br />For this, you'll need two stat pockets, near the top and the bottom...!<br /><br /><br /><br />A 2000l tank heated from 40 to 80 DegC holds 93kWh. <br /><br />Say you run your 6+3kW immersions for 7 hours cheap, that's 63kWh.<br />So you probably aren't going to heat the whole tank in one go, even if you need that much heat. Better to keep it a bit stratified, with usefully hot water in say the top 2/3.]]>
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		<title>External destratification pump on CH cylinder</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Mar 2025 09:46:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>owlman</author>
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			<![CDATA[@ PiH The risk taker in me would love to have a go at the full tank method you describe and I can understand the principle. However, I have visions of me with a finger in the hole reaching for the spanner I've dropped, I shudder to think. On the plus side it's all on the ground floor in the integrated garage with drainage to hand.<br /><br />@ WiA  Thanks, yes, hot to cold is what I'd instinctively go for, your calcs. broadly reflect what happens in practice.<br /><br /><br />I'd looked at a couple of low flow circulating pumps that only move about 1/2 Cu M per hour, this type of thing:-<br /><br /><a href="https://www.mrcentralheating.co.uk/dab-vortex-bwo155-r-zm-blueone-1-2-domestic-hot-water-pump" target="_self" rel="nofollow">https://www.mrcentralheating.co.uk/dab-vortex-bwo155-r-zm-blueone-1-2-domestic-hot-water-pump</a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.anchorpumps.com/pump-type/hot-water-service-circulators/grundfos-comfort-hot-water-service-circulators-240v" target="_self" rel="nofollow">https://www.anchorpumps.com/pump-type/hot-water-service-circulators/grundfos-comfort-hot-water-service-circulators-240v</a><br /><br />There are others of this albeit expensive ilk. I think they were mainly designed for re-circulating DHW systems hence the low flow rates.]]>
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		<title>External destratification pump on CH cylinder</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Mar 2025 09:54:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Cliff Pope</author>
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			<![CDATA[I thought the principle of an "ideal" tank is that it is heated at the bottom and the hot water rises to the top. The longer you run it the deeper the hot layer gets, gradually expanding until the whole tank is hot.<br />When you draw off hot water from the top it is replaced at the bottom, the cold layer gradually creeping up the tank until finally the hot runs out and at that point you know to stop trying to top up your bath and you get out.<br /><br />So you want minimal agitation of the water so as to preserve the stratification. The cold inlet pipe should 25mm bore so as to minimise the flow speed and prevent swirl, and there should be a horizontal baffle on the inside of the tank to encourage the cold water to spread out horizontally.<br /><br />Externally the hot pipes should have long horizontal runs to minimise heat transfer via thermosyphon action, likewise the vent pipe, rather than straight vertical from the top of the tank.<br /><br />Economy 7 tanks have two immersion heaters - the lower one on a timer to heat the whole tank, the top one to give a limited boost heating only the upper portion during the day.]]>
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		<title>External destratification pump on CH cylinder</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Mar 2025 10:09:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>owlman</author>
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			<![CDATA[@ WiA At the moment with 2 x 3kW immersions  for 7 hours I'm heating about ( Very rough guess here, difficult to get a true figure ), 900L from a 50C start, to 80C. My aim, with the addition of another 2 x 3 kW  immersions and a circulator, would be to raise that 900 L to about 15/1600 L.<br /> Worst case doing that each night on cheap rate would be 12 kWh for 7hrs @ 6.7p would be £5.63 per night .I think, it would be a lot less than that as often we don't use that much for the zoned CH. Also because the 4 x 3 kW immersions are wired independently on 4 timers I could mix and match the input according to demand.]]>
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		<title>External destratification pump on CH cylinder</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Mar 2025 17:46:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Peter_in_Hungary</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: owlman</cite>@ PiH The risk taker in me would love to have a go at the full tank method you describe and I can understand the principle. However, I have visions of me with a finger in the hole reaching for the spanner I've dropped, I shudder to think. On the plus side it's all on the ground floor in the integrated garage with drainage to hand.</blockquote><br />Man or mouse ???  Go for it.........]]>
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		<title>External destratification pump on CH cylinder</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Mar 2025 18:43:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>owlman</author>
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			<![CDATA[I think for the methodology to work you would to have the malleable iron fittings made up beforehand with a lever type ball valve in order to fit the copper afterwards, as you suggest. Maybe with taper fit rather than straight fit too.<br />Buckets at the ready<img src="/newforum/extensions/Vanillacons/smilies/standard/wink.gif" alt=":wink:" title=":wink:" />]]>
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		<title>External destratification pump on CH cylinder</title>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 12 Mar 2025 07:45:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Peter_in_Hungary</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: owlman</cite>I think for the methodology to work you would to have the malleable iron fittings made up beforehand with a lever type ball valve in order to fit the copper afterwards, as you suggest. Maybe with taper fit rather than straight fit too.<br />Buckets at the ready<img src="<a href="https:///newforum/extensions/Vanillacons/smilies/standard/wink.gif" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">https:///newforum/extensions/Vanillacons/smilies/standard/wink.gif</a>" alt="<img src="/newforum/extensions/Vanillacons/smilies/standard/wink.gif" alt=":wink:" title=":wink:" />" title="<img src="/newforum/extensions/Vanillacons/smilies/standard/wink.gif" alt=":wink:" title=":wink:" />" ></img></blockquote><br />Yes taper fit and I would close the tap and remove the handle 'cos it will be easier to fit without the handle sticking out at a right angle.]]>
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		<title>External destratification pump on CH cylinder</title>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 12 Mar 2025 10:30:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>djh</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: Cliff Pope</cite>I thought the principle of an "ideal" tank is that it is heated at the bottom and the hot water rises to the top.</blockquote>This thread isn't discussing an ideal tank, but the realities of owlman's tank.]]>
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		<title>External destratification pump on CH cylinder</title>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 12 Mar 2025 11:11:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>WillInAberdeen</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Can use:<br /><br />kW x hours =  litres x 4.2 x (temp rise) ÷ 3600<br /><br />Eg 1500 litres x 4.2 x(50 to 80)÷3600 = 53 kWh<br /><br />= 7.5kW for 7 hours <br /><br />@6.9p = £3.68<br /><br /><br />Maybe off topic but guess you have thought about the electric supply side and consumer unit wiring overload ratings etc etc? <br />4x3kW = 52A without diversity, doesn't leave much for other circuits sockets/cooker/shower/EV<br />Each 3kW immersion likely needs its own rcbo and radial wiring out from the consumer unit, sparky will advise]]>
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		<title>External destratification pump on CH cylinder</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18272&amp;Focus=307943#Comment_307943</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18272&amp;Focus=307943#Comment_307943</guid>
		<pubDate>Wed, 12 Mar 2025 13:26:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>owlman</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Hi Will, Thanks for the formula, yes i was aware if the load implications and independent breakers and timers is what we have. <br />The first 2 x 3 kW didn't have stats on them because with such a large water volume There was no chance of overheating and the system is well protected with pressure relief valves. However if I do go for another 2 x 3 kW those will have inbuilt stats, for flexibility as well as safety.    <br />When we fitted the storage batteries we split the tails and took off a separate feed just after the meter via a double pole fused isolator. this is the dedicated immersion feed. We also wanted to eliminate any risk of the immersions draining the storage batteries, and it was easier to monitor that way.]]>
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		<title>External destratification pump on CH cylinder</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18272&amp;Focus=308832#Comment_308832</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18272&amp;Focus=308832#Comment_308832</guid>
		<pubDate>Thu, 17 Jul 2025 16:50:20 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Bryan_Rendall</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[A bit late coming to this thread, but now I have found the forum again, looking to see what I can find on it...<br /><br />My input on the type of pump needed is that it needs to be non corrosive, i.e. stainless steel, if its in potable water.  I tried similar to stir up the water between my solar pre-heat tank and the main DHW cylinder, for times when the preheat tank had become hotter than the main tank.  I arranged a standard CH pump to take cooler water from the top of the main tank and re-circulate it to the inlet of the pre-heat tank, thus pushing hotter water forward closer to the taps.  It works a treat, but with a standard CH pump, the hot water had a permanent brown tinge, due to ongoing corrosion in the pump.  Swapped it out for a similar pump with a stainless impeller for potable water, and problem solved.]]>
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		<title>External destratification pump on CH cylinder</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18272&amp;Focus=308833#Comment_308833</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18272&amp;Focus=308833#Comment_308833</guid>
		<pubDate>Thu, 17 Jul 2025 21:41:44 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>djh</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: Bryan_Rendall</cite>My input on the type of pump needed is that it needs to be non corrosive, i.e. stainless steel, if its in potable water.</blockquote>I believe it's a central heating tank, so not potable water.]]>
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		<title>External destratification pump on CH cylinder</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18272&amp;Focus=308834#Comment_308834</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18272&amp;Focus=308834#Comment_308834</guid>
		<pubDate>Thu, 17 Jul 2025 22:18:28 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Bryan_Rendall</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: djh</cite>I believe it's a central heating tank, so not potable water.</blockquote><br /><br />Indeed, that is what the OP started off with.  But within about 10 posts, it got a bit blurry, and not clear if everyone else was still on CH or DHW.  So thought I might pitch that bit if for good luck!  <img src="/newforum/extensions/Vanillacons/smilies/standard/bigsmile.gif" alt=":bigsmile:" title=":bigsmile:" />]]>
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		<title>External destratification pump on CH cylinder</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18272&amp;Focus=308836#Comment_308836</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18272&amp;Focus=308836#Comment_308836</guid>
		<pubDate>Fri, 18 Jul 2025 12:02:24 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>owlman</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Thanks Bryan and welcome back. Its for an accumulator/buffer tank for a biomass boiler a supplying hot water for CH and via a PHx for DHW. I managed to get a nice, used, quality, circulating pump to experiment with.]]>
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