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General: Kitchen cabinet light

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1 to 19 of 19

  1.  
    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTimeApr 15th 2025
     
    What ho one and all,

    When we built the house 15 years ago, all kitchen bits and bobs where from Ikea. Including the under cabinet lights, which are mini-flourescent strip lights. All had been OK until a few years ago, when one decided not to function. I bought a pair of replacement tubes (good to have a spare!!) only to find the replacement the faulty one, did nothing at all.

    Before replacing everything with LED, which would be quite a job as the wiring is somewhat recessed behind cabinets, I had a look at the circuit board for an obvious fault. Everything looks fine but decided for the sake of one of Chinese finest, to replace the capacitor (the photo is the original, which I feel is OK, but...)

    The replacement worked and the light now comes on, but..... Within about 5-10 mins, it goes out again and while the unit is still warm, will not restart (power off then on again.) When cold, it does start for the 5-10 mins.

    Not being an electronic expert, what could be the fault that causes it to fail. A bad solder joint? Something else like another capacitor that when full, does whatever?

    The other three units in the chain have never had any problem.

    Thanks.
      Light.jpg
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeApr 15th 2025
     
    Bite the bullet and replace the unit with an LED fitting.
    • CommentAuthorrevor
    • CommentTimeApr 15th 2025
     
    Posted By: djhBite the bullet and replace the unit with an LED fitting.


    Agree, cheap enough, lower energy consumption a bonus.
    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTimeApr 15th 2025
     
    But would have to replace all units, otherwise there will be odd lighting.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeApr 15th 2025
     
    Under cabinet lights aren't meant to be seen?
  6.  
    Posted By: RexBut would have to replace all units, otherwise there will be odd lighting.


    Posted By: djhUnder cabinet lights aren't meant to be seen?

    I think he means the colour of the light output would be different - which would almost certainly be the case.

    So Bite the bullet and replace the unit(s) with an LED fitting(s).
    • CommentAuthorMike1
    • CommentTimeApr 15th 2025 edited
     
    I'm not an electronics expert either, but capacitors are often a problem and you may have more than 1 there - the 400V one + the blue one? In fact, if that's the totality of the board, it wouldn't be that hard to replace every component, as long as you're careful in matching what you've got.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeApr 15th 2025 edited
     
    Posted By: Peter_in_HungaryI think he means the colour of the light output would be different - which would almost certainly be the case.
    Duh, buy a LED with the correct (i.e. matching) colour temperature!
    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTimeApr 15th 2025
     
    Not only colour temperature but also output. One issue that makes it a big (ish) job is that the lights have Ikea plugs with virtually zero extra cable. Any LED will certainly have a different plug/socket and as the cabling is routed into the cabinet sides, dropping from the top, the only way to replace the cabling would be to remove all cabinets from the wall. Trying to get this one light working correctly is the easiest option (in my opinion!)

    I have replaced the 400 cap, did not know that the blue is also a capacitor. I have wondered about re-soldering all the joints in case one is bad. but if that was the case, surely the light would ot work at all rather than just for a few minutes?
  10.  
    That bit with four diodes, two capacitors and a choke is the rectifier, it takes the incoming AC and converts into DC.

    Thats the easy bit, the DC then feeds an electronic switching circuit that makes a high frequency and high voltage to sustain the arc in the fluorescent tube. Sounds like this bit is not doing its job.

    The fault could be any of the components or connections. If it has lasted 15 years then it's done well, time to replace it with LEDs.

    You might find a LED tube the same size that fits the existing housing. Some of them, you scrap the fluorescent driver, others you don't have to. Different colour whites available.
    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTimeApr 16th 2025
     
    Thanks for the replace the tube with an LED suggest; will investigate. Certainly have done that with some other fluorescent fittings in the laundry room, although they are larger lights.

    Memory tells me there are other bits on the circuit board and I only took this photo to research the correct capacitor.
  12.  
    Some LED tubes, you bypass and discard the old fluoro driver circuit and wire up 230V straight to the tube holder. The LED converts that into the low V DC it needs, and saves energy too.

    Some LED tubes, you just plug them in. They take the HF supply that was intended for the fluorescent, and converts it to low V DC. Doesn't save as much energy.

    Some LED tubes, work either way. So you can have matching coloured light all round the kitchen and no danger of forgetting which spare tube goes into which fitting.

    You could phone a supplier like these (others available) and they'll send you the right ones

    https://www.lampshoponline.com/advice-centre/replacing-fluorescents-with-leds
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeApr 16th 2025
     
    Posted By: RexOne issue that makes it a big (ish) job is that the lights have Ikea plugs with virtually zero extra cable. Any LED will certainly have a different plug/socket
    IKEA seem to do a lot of "integrated" LED lights of various types with different interlinking cables. Maybe one of them will fit.
    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTimeApr 16th 2025
     
    Gentlemen,

    As usual, many thanks for your suggestions. Don't think anything from Ikea will fit; the lights are subminiture fluorescent, 8W 320mm long and around 7mm diameter. Can't find any LED versions on the web, can find replacement fluorescent at a similar price to that which I paid, £20 and above. (https://www.lampwise.co.uk/light-bulbs/low-energy-cfl/fluorescent-tubes/t2-7mm-o-fluorescent-tubes/3x-t2-fluorescent-tube-8w-320mm-x-7mm-daylight-6500k-840.html)

    Most sites say, Out of Stock or No Longer in Production.

    Now I am wondering about doing a DIY connection to adhere some of those LED on a sticky strip to the reflector and as suggested, ignore the electronics.

    But will have a look at the Ikea lights. If nothing else, a visit to the Croydon branch is always fun with a meal of meat balls and mushy peas. And as my new car is ULEX compliant, no extra expense!!!
  15.  
    Posted By: WillInAberdeenSome LED tubes, you bypass and discard the old fluoro driver circuit and wire up 230V straight to the tube holder. The LED converts that into the low V DC it needs, and saves energy too.


    I did this in our kitchen, might even have had the advice from this company over the phone. I ordered some LED replacement smallish tubes and when I put them in they didn’t work. The helpful chap on the phone said that if I was confident with wiring it was easy to just bypass the driver, which I did, and they worked perfectly.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeApr 17th 2025
     
    The LED "Sticky strips" will need a driver and could get onerous if you do all the existing fittings. Installing them into a new surface mount aluminium or plastic carrier may be abetter way. Hiding one driver shouldn't be too difficult.
    or;
    Fit a few individual USB, battery rechargeable, motion detect, LED fittings.
    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTimeApr 18th 2025
     
    Again, thank you.

    Won't go the battery route. Have too many various LED battery operated lights a round the house and although they are good for illuminating the stairs, when constantly on in the kitchen, there will be too many battery replacement needed.

    Will figure something out
  18.  
    Highly recommend Ikeas LED lighting range - I've fitted a few different ones over a number of years and they've always been nicely finished and worked well.

    IME they're surprisingly warm - 2700k - which matches our other lighting (but most LEDs are cooler).
    they all seem to be 24v constant current - theres no need to use their power supplies (most of which are 'smart home' stuff and the one that isn't is a plug top thing)

    they do connect with a custom plug at the light and power supply but you can cut that and join the wires to something else easily enough
    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTimeMay 11th 2025
     
    Thanks, will bear it in mind when we next swing by for a meal-ball meal.

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