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			<title>Green Building Forum - Retrofit project</title>
			<lastBuildDate>Fri, 14 Aug 2026 16:43:01 +0100</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>Retrofit project</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18435&amp;Focus=310638#Comment_310638</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 13 May 2026 08:29:03 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>ChrisGT</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Starting a retrofit of  a new house shortly. Its only 25 years old! <br />Cavity walls with 80mm glass wool batts, clod roof, dot and dab plasterboard walls and a terrible airtightness test<br />Planning to:<br /><br /> Fill cavities below dpc with ecobead. <br />Create warm roof by increasing rafter depth with intello membrane on inside and blown in gutex or warmcel and solitex plus counterbattens and battens above.<br /><br />150mm eps from 300mm above ground to foundation fixed to exterior brick  walls. Timber frame made from 2 x 50x50mm timber with noggins to create 150mm cavity to be filled with gutex and 40mm rendered woodfibre board outside. Intello against bricks connecting to foundation and roof vapour control layer. <br /><br />Does this sound like a good plan. Have considered parge coat in wall or passivpurple but intello seems cheaper and more eco. <br /><br />Triple glazed windows hung outside current wall in picture frame. <br /><br />Any suggestions or thoughts on improvements?]]>
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		<title>Retrofit project</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18435&amp;Focus=310639#Comment_310639</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 13 May 2026 10:35:59 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>fostertom</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: ChrisGT</cite>Timber frame made from 2 x 50x50mm timber with noggins to create 150mm cavity to be filled with gutex and 40mm rendered woodfibre board outside</blockquote>Was suggested to me that short (like 1200mm) offcuts of timber I-beam may be available cheap from suppliers, wd save much 'studwork' fabrication on site.<br />Does the external render-board have to be an expensive insulation board? I thought with thin-web I-beams, thermal bridging doesn't need to be killed?<br />With I-beams, are 'picture frame' window surrounds needed?<br />To prevent standing ground-water in the trench, hitting the insulation value of the below-ground CWI and EWI, turn them into french drain? provided you've got somewhere to drain that out to - a soakaway that also fills with groundwater will just pipe water back into the trench.]]>
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		<title>Retrofit project</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18435&amp;Focus=310641#Comment_310641</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 13 May 2026 10:58:33 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>djh</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: fostertom</cite>Was suggested to me that short (like 1200mm) offcuts of timber I-beam may be available cheap from suppliers, wd save much 'studwork' fabrication on site.<br />Does the external render-board have to be an expensive insulation board? I thought with thin-web I-beams, thermal bridging doesn't need to be killed?<br />With I-beams, are 'picture frame' window surrounds needed?</blockquote>I'm not sure what you're suggesting to do with the short lengths of I-beam, Tom? I'm not sure there's enough work involved in building the framework Chris suggests to justify trying to save it.<br /><br />I agree about the outer board - a stronger render board might be better.<br /><br />The picture frames are needed to box out the light well from outside to inside; otherwise the blown-in insulation will just fill all the space.]]>
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		<title>Retrofit project</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18435&amp;Focus=310645#Comment_310645</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 13 May 2026 13:44:48 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>fostertom</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: djh</cite>not sure what you're suggesting to do with the short lengths of I-beam</blockquote>Screw em to the brickwork, butting short lengths end to end - dead easy. Just spacers, not doing any spanning.<br /><blockquote ><cite >Posted By: djh</cite>The picture frames are needed to box out the light well from outside to inside; otherwise the blown-in insulation will just fill all the space.</blockquote>The I-beam spacers can be located to form the sides of the window 'picture frame' - more ditto nogged across top and bottom]]>
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		<title>Retrofit project</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18435&amp;Focus=310646#Comment_310646</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 13 May 2026 16:12:42 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>djh</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: fostertom</cite><blockquote >not sure what you're suggesting to do with the short lengths of I-beam</blockquote>Screw em to the brickwork, butting short lengths end to end - dead easy. Just spacers, not doing any spanning.</blockquote>Sounds more work than building the space frame Chris proposed to me, but each to his own.]]>
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		<title>Retrofit project</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18435&amp;Focus=310647#Comment_310647</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 13 May 2026 17:20:08 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Doubting_Thomas</author>
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			<![CDATA[I think I get what Tom is saying - multiple short lengths of (e.g. Steico) beam avoids all the fuss of extra-long artic deliveries to site and the lengths can probably be obtained easily without special orders.  <br /><br />If the beam isn't structural then it can be just made of a patchwork of different lengths and still work. <br /><br />Having said that, our carpenter did not enjoy cutting these engineered beams due to the different densities of timber. They were also able to lift each beam into place in one lift, unlike this approach.<br /><br />So once you factor in the extra cutting, fixing and general labour, I think djh is right - it might not stack up financially, despite potentially being slightly 'greener'. <br /><br />Worth doing the sums on your particular job though. We had to wait weeks for a special order, so the time factor might swing things.]]>
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		<title>Retrofit project</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18435&amp;Focus=310648#Comment_310648</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 13 May 2026 22:01:08 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>djh</author>
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			<![CDATA[I'd have thought Chris could put long enough lengths of the timber he's suggesting on the roof of his car from a local shop, or use the shop's van. No need for artics, I'd have thought!]]>
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		<title>Retrofit project</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18435&amp;Focus=310687#Comment_310687</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 17 May 2026 22:03:11 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>ChrisGT</author>
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			<![CDATA[I beams seem quite expensive and I havent found any offcuts yet. Using locally available materials seems much cheaper than specialised products. Its hard to do a retrofit like this like this without spending a lot still. . Maybe using dpc as the vapour barier against the brick wall would make things even cheaper! I know Beattie Passiv were doing this. Cant get any confirmation that its ok to use intello against the brickwork. Passivepurple has been suggested- I suspect this is just a thick layer of paint- Is that about right?]]>
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		<title>Retrofit project</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18435&amp;Focus=310692#Comment_310692</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 18 May 2026 10:49:20 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>djh</author>
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			<![CDATA[I used DPC as an air and vapour barrier in some small parts of my build. As long as you're sure you want a full barrier, it works fine.<br /><br />Passive Purple is indeed a layer of paint. I believe it works but I think it's quite expensive.]]>
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		<title>Retrofit project</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18435&amp;Focus=310782#Comment_310782</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 09 Jun 2026 11:04:56 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>ChrisGT</author>
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			<![CDATA[BCO wants structural engineer input to roof buildup. I planned to increase depth of rafters with stub rafters and battens. Spoke to an SE who wants to bolt 225mmx 50mm rafters to the side of my 195x 46mm rafters every 450mm to increase depth. This seems like overkill to me. <br />With the garage conversion roof with skinny 70x 35mm roof trusses he and the architect have suggested ripping them out and replacing with a glulam ridge and I joists. It would create a useful space I suppose instead of a forest of timbers. Any suggestions. Im surprised there arent some standard details for dealing with these issues.]]>
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		<title>Retrofit project</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18435&amp;Focus=310783#Comment_310783</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 09 Jun 2026 17:30:45 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>djh</author>
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			<![CDATA[Unless I've misread it, you didn't say you were planning to alter the roof? So why does the BCO want to involve a structural engineer?]]>
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		<title>Retrofit project</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18435&amp;Focus=310784#Comment_310784</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 09 Jun 2026 19:23:48 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>ChrisGT</author>
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			<![CDATA[BCO has said the extra weight on the roof needs looking at. She said if its over 15% then needs Structural engineer. I worked out with my fag packet calls on the garage roof that extra timber and insulation. Could add 29% to the weight. Architect and se seem to think this roof would be good to replace with ibeams and a glulam ridge but that the extra weight on the main roof should be ok. SE said roofs are built with an extra 20% weight allowance built in.]]>
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		<title>Retrofit project</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18435&amp;Focus=310785#Comment_310785</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 10 Jun 2026 10:30:37 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>djh</author>
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			<![CDATA[Ah, sorry, I missed that you were insulating the roof. OK so it sounds like you've talked to a structural engineer, so all is good now?]]>
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		<title>Retrofit project</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18435&amp;Focus=310786#Comment_310786</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 10 Jun 2026 19:49:08 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>ChrisGT</author>
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			<![CDATA[A plan is being formulated! <br /><br />100mm booster  rafters on top of main house rafters which are 1965x46mm<br /><br />Take off the garage trusses and replace with hlulam ridge and ibeams rafters. <br /><br />Unless anyone has better suggestions??]]>
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		<title>Retrofit project</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18435&amp;Focus=310787#Comment_310787</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 10 Jun 2026 20:59:06 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>djh</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: ChrisGT</cite>100mm booster  rafters on top of main house rafters which are 1965x46mm</blockquote>Presumably 195x46 as mentioned before?<br /><br />How are the booster rafters attached to the existing rafters?]]>
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		<title>Retrofit project</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18435&amp;Focus=310815#Comment_310815</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 12 Jun 2026 13:25:04 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>ChrisGT</author>
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			<![CDATA[I would have thought with screws every 300mm. The SE suggested nail plates every m.]]>
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		<title>Retrofit project</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18435&amp;Focus=310816#Comment_310816</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 12 Jun 2026 13:25:56 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>ChrisGT</author>
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			<![CDATA[I would have thought with screws every 300mm. The SE suggested nail plates every m.]]>
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		<title>Retrofit project</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18435&amp;Focus=310818#Comment_310818</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 12 Jun 2026 15:12:37 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>djh</author>
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			<![CDATA[Nail plates are rated for sideways stress (shear). Screws aren't except for certain types. Unless you used very long screws screwed through from the top of the boosters, screws will be loaded partly in shear.]]>
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		<title>Retrofit project</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18435&amp;Focus=310821#Comment_310821</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 13 Jun 2026 20:42:48 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Peter_in_Hungary</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: ChrisGT</cite>I would have thought with screws every 30cm. The SE suggested nail plates every m.</blockquote><br />When I had to strengthen some rafters when going from corrugated sheets to tiles my SE said 100mm booster rafters on top of existing screwed with structural screws every 30 cm with PVA glue between new and existing. His reasoning was that without this joining the new and existing wouldn't act as one timber and so would be structurally inferior.]]>
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