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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

Buy individually or both books together. Delivery is free!


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    • CommentAuthorJoatex
    • CommentTimeMay 10th 2007
     
    Which sand is best for lime mortar plaster, builders,sharp, silver ? And is reinforcing, i.e.horse hair or fibre glass or whatever essential ? The paster in to be appied both inside and out. Finally the ratio of lime moratr to sand ? Many thanks
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeMay 10th 2007
     
    Ratio 3 sand : 1 lime Reinforcement is a very good idea and greatly extends the durability and life.

    The sand could be controversial subject and a matter of opinion. I prefer a "washed or river washed" building sand, i.e. a cleaner type of sand and also prefer to add 20% of a finer grained sharp sand into the mix.

    Lime putty is good but it is not at all difficult to slake your own lime if you live near any chalk hills why not have a go?.
    • CommentAuthorbiffvernon
    • CommentTimeMay 10th 2007 edited
     
    Posted By: tony
    Lime putty is good but it is not at all difficult to slake your own lime if you live near any chalk hills why not have a go?.
    What do you mean?

    Joatex, use a sharp sand - you want a range of grain sizes. I can't see any point in paying a premium for 'washed'. Dirty sand with lots of fines will do fine. You can even add earth! If you want a very smooth finish, then use a very fine sand (silver sand) with a more lime-rich ratio, say 2:1ish, for the finishing coat.

    Goat hair is often said to be the best. Many old houses just had chopped straw incorpoarted in the base coat of plaster.
  1.  
    Posted By: tonyLime putty is good but it is not at all difficult to slake your own lime if you live near any chalk hills why not have a go?.


    Building a kiln and firing it at a constant 800C is quite a major exercise, and definitely not something to be done just to make a batch of lime plaster. There's also the matter of getting permission to dig the chalk. And slaking and settling enough of the resulting quicklime under water for long enough to make a putty that doesn't 'pop' when made into a plaster...
    To be honest, I'd rather make my own putty from bagged, hydrated lime than attempt to slake my own for professional use.

    Biff's right about the sand - ordinary sharp sand, complete with fines, is what you want. Builder's sand is a definite no-no, however, as the rounded grains make for a very weak mix. You can buy the hair (usually cow hair these days) from most places that supply lime putty. Teasing it into the mix is a tedious business, but where would building be without those tedious moments when the mind can wander off...? :smile:
    • CommentAuthorJoatex
    • CommentTimeMay 11th 2007
     
    Many thanks for your suggestions.
    But about mixing quicklime with water. It is most unwise to be involved without sufficient protection. Particularly the eyes. Acid burns are bad enough at least with irrigation most of the acid is quickly diluted and washed away but alkali burns are devestating, quickly penetrate into the cornea and result in gross corneal opacities and fibrosis of the conjuctiva. Thereafter a long haul to achieve some sight recovery.
  2.  
    Indeed - lime burns were one of the commonest causes of blindness in the 19th century. Even diluted slaked limewater in the eyes is hideously unpleasant - always have an eyebath and neutral eyewash to hand when working with lime (particularly when limewashing, when spatters can fly everywhere). It's less than a fiver from Boots or similar, and could save your sight.
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