Hello, this is my first post.

I've recently moved into a newly renovated apartment in Leeds. It's converted from an old primary school. Big rooms, high ceilings, big windows, colder than the arctic.

I have these nice old sash windows (similar to pic attached or http://www.theboxsashworkshop.co.uk/USERIMAGES/V-DUB%20HOLS%202006%20041(1).jpg)

Anyway, they look lovely, but don't help keeping the heat in/cold out. As you can see, the windows are traditional sliding sash style with multiple pieces of single paned glass.

A little research tells me I have several realistic options.

1. Simply insulate the window into the frame better (how do you do this?)
2. Stick up a secondary pane (I’ve seen you can cheaply do this with acrylic(?)). There seems to be various degrees of sophistication in this option.
3. Keep the existing window and glass but add individual new pieces of glass on the existing window (in my case 12 pieces for each window) thus 'double glazing' without putting new windows in.
4. Entire new windows, double glazed. I don't like this option and as I am in a listed building I may not even be allowed to do this.

Any advice would be very much appreciated (as you will gather from above, I don't have any experience in this area).

Andy

if these are new, it is likely they were single glazed because of the listing, otherwise Building Control are unlikely to have accepted them.

A good secondary glazing system (and draftproofing) is the way forward.

good secondary glazing can be made so that glazing bars line up with existing, are easily openable for cleaning and opening the 'real' window.

a company called Ventrolla can refurbish sash and case windows and make them more draft proof.

Windows with weights have a cord going up and over a pulley, then disappearing into the side of the frame. If you pull the cord you can feel the weight dangling about.

You're right - I have a cord going up over the pulley at the top of the window.

So the plan is to keep the original windows in and....

1. intense draft proofing as suggested by Tony.
2. put in some simple secondary glazing.

Can any one tell me how much secondary glazing should cost per window? Also, what type is the best option for me? There seem to be many different possibilities.

Simplest is a single piece of glass mounted on draft proofing strips with adapted cable clips with small screws instead of the nails to hold it in place -- cant open

next is similar diy ones -- these cost not much more than the glass fit in late autumn remove in spring -- ( fit MHRV so u dont need to open windows )

Then aluminium systems with hinges or sliders -- £ 55 - 100 per window pluss glass

Then I would sat 300 - 350 per window for getting it fitted -- go for ali if you can.

we just had windows made, and although they are sash and case look a like, the joiner had to be repeatedly told to leave the horns off the bottom of the top sash to keep them in keeping with the plainer traditional style contemporary to the building.

the cynic in me suggests that the continuation of ornament and 'twiddly dee' in modern windows such as UPVC cr*p keeps the price up, even though it is just an extrusion that can be any shape at largely the same cost.

re: insulating box frame of sash windows (ie the box that contains the weights). On the exterior side of my window, there is a gap between the wooden box frame and the stone wall which was previously filled with mortar/plaster and then mastic over this. I've removed the mastic and the mortar behind has turned to dust and fallen out. Can I fill this gap with a sheet of polystyrene and then mastic over this? Do I need to use a particular type of mastic, will it react with the polystyrene?

Be VERY careful about using expanding foam until you've checked that the frames have back boards fitted to seal the weight boxes. Not all box sash windows had them fitted, and even those that did can have seen them rot away! Expanding foam in that situation can/will interfere with the movement of the weights, cords or pulleys.

Remove the pocket piece and check the presence/state of the back boards.

If you do use expanding foam, then use the low-expansion stuff, although it's usually only available in a pack of five tubes (Travis Perkins sell them) that come with a can of cleaner and an applicator gun, but it makes a much neater job and doesn't find its way into places you'd rather it didn't!

We reinstalled shutters in our property, which also had sash windows (draft proofed but only single glazed). The shutters were historically correct but no attempt was made to include insulation and the gaps around them were not really minimized. They were however incredibly effective at preventing heat loss, particularly as the radiators were located under the windows. We opted to install split shutters replicating those in adjoining properties, whilst creating slightly additional amounts of work this had the benefit of allowing a certain level of privacy (with lower section closed) whilst still providing natural light. The most unexpected benefit, however, was the amazing reduction in heat gain during the summer months. With the top sections closed it was possible to maintain daylight and a view but knock back the sun's penetration into the rooms, much like solar shades.
I imagine correctly designed shutters (from a heat conservation perspective) would certainly be effective.

Many thanks for the tip about the Mighton stuff, that looks to be just the job. I'll pass it on to her and get her to ask her chap to fit it. As far as I know the building is only grade II listed, it's an old coastguard cottage, right on the beach, so you can imagine the weather it gets!

She's a bit fussy about things, so I know that if it doesn't rattle (which seems to be her main concern) and still opens freely then she should be happy.

Many thanks again,

Best regards,

jeremy

The draught-proofed pulley covers have a catch to them in that they aren't as "retro fit" as some companies make out. Difficult to describe in words, but the cover makes the overall profile of the pulley THICKER and so you lose the overlap of the pulley front face against the casing.

I ordered them to use on the two upgraded sash windows I replaced in one room and ended up sending them back to Mighton with my query as to why they're insisting they're so easy to retro-fit when they're a bugger to get to look good in a new frame made from scratch. They didn't respond, possibly because I told them where to put them and didn't insist on my money back!

If the casing has a back cover then the box frame is effectively sealed and no draught can enter it to exit though the pulley, especially if the rest of the frame is draught-proofed, together with the parting bead. Unfortunately, a lot of older windows don't have the back cover right up to the top of the frame, having it just along that part where the weights will run to stop them snagging the brickwork. But then you just make sure the edges of the frame are sealed all round - use a transluscent acrylic sealant and it's virtually invisible against the mortar.

When I lived in a place with Crittal steel single-glazed windows!, I was looking at an idea where you stick a strip of magnetic rubber around the frame and another matching strip around a suitable sized piece of acrylic sheet. Glass may be too heavy in larger sizes. When you need the secondary glazing, offer up the sheet and it just stays there, but is easily removable if required - small handle or rubber sucker needed. Just search for 'adhesive magnetic rubber strip' - I found it for about £22 for 30 metres.

I like the idea of the shutters, though.