Home  5  Books  5  GBEzine  5  News  5  HelpDesk  5  Register  5  GreenBuilding.co.uk
Not signed in (Sign In)

Categories



Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

Buy individually or both books together. Delivery is free!


powered by Surfing Waves




Vanilla 1.0.3 is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.

Welcome to new Forum Visitors
Join the forum now and benefit from discussions with thousands of other green building fans and discounts on Green Building Press publications: Apply now.

The AECB accepts no responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions in the content of this site. Views given in posts are not necessarily the views of the AECB.



    • CommentAuthorandrewh
    • CommentTimeOct 27th 2008
     
    I am about to lay a kild dried oak floor on some existing chipbgoard and am concerned of the effect the lime plaster may have once it is rendered up to it? Skirting is almost impossible due to the curves in the walls(which we like)

    Would you
    1. lay the oak floor first then render and risk it swelling or
    2. cut the oak flooring to the wall shape once the lime has set (with associated problems regarding no expansion gap) or
    3. use sacrificial bits of the same thickness timber,render to that and then remove them and slide the oak into the gap(leaving an expansion gap)

    can anyone help any advice gratefully received Andy
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeOct 27th 2008
     
    Be extreemly careful lime will mark the oak. I would do the walls first, then lay floor. I would also trap an air barrier in behind the bottom of the wall with expanded metal rendered over, and trap this under the new floor boarding. Then form a plastered skirting with thick paper laid on the floor to protect the new floor.
    • CommentAuthorandrewh
    • CommentTimeOct 27th 2008
     
    thanks tony
    • CommentAuthorjoe.e
    • CommentTimeOct 27th 2008
     
    I recently laid an oak floor up to a very curvy stone wall; I did a kind of horizontal skirting board, by leaving a 10mm expansion gap between boards and wall, which I covered with narrow strips of the flooring timber, cut to fit neatly against the curves of the wall but with a neat straight edge on the room side of it. The floor was laid on a chipboard sub-floor, so I nailed the edging strips down to this through the expansion gap, if you see what I mean, so as to allow the floor to move independantly. It looks nice and neat, although doing it that way meant that a tiny bit of floor space is lost - you can't stand furniture right up to the wall - but the wall is so bumpy that it doesn't matter in practice.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeOct 27th 2008
     
    Could you leave an expansion gap between the oak flooring and the plaster and fill it with something flexible, cork perhaps?
    • CommentAuthormark_s
    • CommentTimeOct 27th 2008
     
    How about folding some plastic sheeting around the edge of the oak. Plaster down to that and cut it back when the plaster is dry?
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeOct 27th 2008
     
    I'd be worried about the water in the wet plaster increasing the humidity of the room dramatically even if it wasn't in contact with the oak. Best do the plaster first and allow plenty of time for the humidity to return to normal. Probably a few weeks rather than days.
Add your comments

    Username Password
  • Format comments as
 
   
The Ecobuilding Buzz
Site Map    |   Home    |   View Cart    |   Pressroom   |   Business   |   Links   
Logout    

© Green Building Press