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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
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General: Double glazing to green oak

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1 to 13 of 13

  1.  
    • CommentAuthorphilby
    • CommentTimeMay 14th 2007 edited
     
    hi,wonder if anyone can help.

    I am nearing completion of a green oak extention to an old barn.The gable end which I was going to fill looks so good looking into woodland that I would like to glaze.What I am a little worried about is the flexing of the oak ( which has now been dry for about 6 months).I would imagine that a reasonably thick rubber surround/seal would absorb any movement.Has anyone fitted this before,also advice on weather seal would be appreciated.
    Thanks.
    •  
      CommentAuthornigel
    • CommentTimeMay 14th 2007
     
    Carpenter Oak have been doing this for a long time.

    Some of the methods they use are in the link:

    http://www.carpenteroak.com/InformationandLinks/OakNotes2003.pdf
    • CommentAuthorbiffvernon
    • CommentTimeMay 15th 2007
     
    There must be lots of design solutions, but for the sake of maintaining a dry edge to double glazed sealed units, I would prefer to set the unit in it's own frame made of relatively small dimension oak and then attach this frame to the larger timbers of the building, rather than glazing directly to the building frame.
    • CommentAuthorRachel
    • CommentTimeMay 15th 2007
     
    We have a large area of double glazing in green oak. We used the thick rubber seal around and it has worked very well. It was done 3 years ago.
    • CommentAuthoroiseaux
    • CommentTimeMay 20th 2007
     
    As we are soon to build a small garden room using oak I was very interested to hear about rubber seals. Can anyone point me in the direction of where I might be able to purchase or find out more
    •  
      CommentAuthornigel
    • CommentTimeMay 20th 2007
     
    • CommentAuthorken davis
    • CommentTimeMay 20th 2007
     
    it is a good idea to set double glazing on plastic spacers at the bottom in order to allow drainage away from the sealed edge and drill a few holes at an angle from below the unit the the outside.
    • CommentAuthorRachel
    • CommentTimeMay 20th 2007
     
    You can buy the rubber sealing on a roll from glaziers/ glass merchants.
    • CommentAuthorken davis
    • CommentTimeMay 20th 2007
     
    ....and you can use non-setting glazing mastic.
    • CommentAuthorbiffvernon
    • CommentTimeMay 21st 2007
     
    It really all comes down to how much the green oak moves and how tightly the glass fits between the timber. If glazing directly to the oak frame you need to have a good estimate of likely movement and then leave sufficient space, packed with suficient thickness of seals, to accomdate the expected movement, combined with cunning detailing to ensure that the glass doesn't break (or drop out) when the actual movement turn out to be greater than expected. Separate frames for the glass removes much of the risk.
    • CommentAuthorGBP-Keith
    • CommentTimeMay 21st 2007 edited
     
    I've got lots of glazing straight into green oak and never had a failure or breakage. I use fully bedded in silicon as i've found from other jobs that EVERY other method of installing double glazing leads to breakdown of the seal due to moisture in the space between the frame and the edge of the unit. be it timber, pPVC or aluminum windows/frames. Measure and allow for a good 3mm gap so you can get a full fill of silicon all the way around the unit.

    Oak always shrinks nd should not move on the glass much with good old mortice and tenon joints.
    • CommentAuthorbiffvernon
    • CommentTimeMay 21st 2007
     
    What sort of silicon did you use?
    • CommentAuthoroiseaux
    • CommentTimeMay 24th 2007
     
    Yes I wpuld be interested in what type of silicon, also can anyone give ideas as to how to finish at the bottom of the glazing panel where it abuts to the cill.

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