Tue, 20 Oct 2026 03:29:38 +0100 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=2883&Focus=37503#Comment_37503 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=2883&Focus=37503#Comment_37503 Fri, 07 Nov 2008 17:58:51 +0000 Pat Any recommendations about fixings for day-to-day needs like these? Are there specialist products avalable?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=2883&Focus=37512#Comment_37512 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=2883&Focus=37512#Comment_37512 Fri, 07 Nov 2008 18:37:29 +0000 Mike George http://www.thesitebox.com/Category/4405/self-drive-plasterboard-fixings.aspx]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=2883&Focus=37513#Comment_37513 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=2883&Focus=37513#Comment_37513 Fri, 07 Nov 2008 18:55:37 +0000 howdytom tom]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=2883&Focus=37514#Comment_37514 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=2883&Focus=37514#Comment_37514 Fri, 07 Nov 2008 19:06:31 +0000 chuckey It all depends on how hard/soft the plaster and cob are. If the plaster is lime, to get through the skincoat (hardish) and the undercoat (v. soft) into the cob(hardness =?), I would go for a plastic plug at least 4" long. Something like :- http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsessionid=OUDSICZUHOKW4CSTHZPCFFA?_dyncharset=UTF-8&fh_search=20795&searchbutton.x=30&searchbutton.y=15
It would be better to replace the ordinary screws with stainless steel screws.
I once put up "spur" shelving and had to make 42 3" long plugs and glue them into place, that was for heavy book shelves through a lime plastered wall into a brick wall.
Frank]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=2883&Focus=37517#Comment_37517 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=2883&Focus=37517#Comment_37517 Fri, 07 Nov 2008 19:18:16 +0000 Pat https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=2883&Focus=37525#Comment_37525 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=2883&Focus=37525#Comment_37525 Fri, 07 Nov 2008 20:17:40 +0000 Rachel https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=2883&Focus=49066#Comment_49066 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=2883&Focus=49066#Comment_49066 Thu, 26 Feb 2009 20:07:58 +0000 edscutt I've been renovating and living in an old cob cottage in wiltshire for the last 9 years. I took tuition from a lime plasterer for the care of cob walls. I believe the old technique (which I have used successfully) is to drill out a pilot hole and drive in a suitably sized wooden peg. For a reasonably secure fixing eg for a mirror or electrical socket I reckon it needs a square shaped peg about 5cm by 5 cm and about 20 long. The key is to knock in gently and if it seems to be holding and filling the hole snuggly carry on knocking it home. If you need anything bigger than a standard hammer your hole is too small! You can cut off any excess peg left sticking out when it's in far enough to hold firm. The cob will 'accommodate' the peg as it's driven in.
The other approach for really serious fixings (that I used to attach a wall beam) was bolts set in resin. Screwfix stock the type of product but I haven't used their brand: Fischer Hybrid Mortar Resin V 360
hope this helps]]>