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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
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    • CommentAuthorAlec Ryrie
    • CommentTimeMay 24th 2007
     
    Can I ask for some advice here, as a rapidly learning novice.

    We're buying a house in the north of England, 1000 feet up in the Pennines - a mix of solid stone and cavity insulated walls, about 190 square metres. Currently it's heated by a coal-fired stove powering radiators, and that's going. Question is, how do we heat water and space.

    GSHP impossible due to configuration of land. No mains gas, obviously. Planning permission unlikely for solar panels (we're in an AONB). We looked at wood-burning systems, but we don't have anywhere to season wood, and the level of hard labour required makes it impractical. Wood pellet systems are prohibitively expensive to run. So we were thinking that, like everyone else around there, we were going to have to fit an oil tank and have done with.

    Then we came across this business of _air_ source heat pumps. What we're thinking of now is the following:

    - Panasonic make air-to-air heat pumps, which they claim blow warm air around your house enough to heat it adequately. I've used air-duct heating systems in the US and have no problem as such with them. What makes me nervous is (a) their claim that one or two such units can effectively heat a whole house; (b) are they going to make so much background noise that I go postal; (c) can they really extract enough heat from the northern English air? They claim that they can function without backup as long as it is more than -5 degrees outside, which (if true) covers enough of the year to be able to manage with a wood-burning stove and electric radiators for the rest of the time.

    - And the 'Altherma' system which is being marketed in the UK by Daikin claims to be able to use an air-to-water heat pump to be able to provide domestic hot water, with an immersion heater backup for heavy usage / very cold weather. That seems more straightforward, but again I don't really know if it can do what it claims. Nor what it costs (they are very cagey about that).

    All this seems very appealing, both in carbon-footprint terms and in reducing running costs. And since I have to shell out to fit a new system of _some_ kind this year, it seems an obvious opportunity. But I am nervous about being an early adopter of something which is obviously very new in Britain.

    Can anyone reassure me, or warn me off?

    Thank you!
  1.  
    What is wrong with the current coal stove? If is works OK and is up to the job then perhaps you should keep it and spend the money saved on thoroughly insulating and draft-proofing the property and maybe adding a solar hot water panel for the summer? You could burn some wood on it as well if you want.

    There is another topic somewhere on this forum where coal heating is discussed in depth - worth taking a look. I think fitting an oil tank would be a mistake as we can't be far off Peak Oil, i.e. prices are going to be on a permanent upward trend. Coal is dirty fuel, but at least you can be certain of getting hold of the stuff and sounds like you are rural and at altitude so no smog problems.
    • CommentAuthorLizM
    • CommentTimeMay 24th 2007
     
    Air source heat pumps are apparently very popular in Scandinavia. Viessmann also do a warm air system. There are systems out there that can be attached to radiator systems, but I would suggest that the radiators are sized to account for the lower heat output - around 40 deg compared to 80 deg in tradiational systems. If you try contacting GSHP companies, you'll eventually find someone who does air source heat pumps for homes. Mitsubishi Electric do a product too.

    Regarding the technology - look around at offices. The air conditioning units on the outside are quite often heat pumps. The addition of the capability to produce hot water is only difference between those and what you'll be looking for.
  2.  
    Alec said that his land wasn't suitable for a GSHP - you really don't need much land at all if you go vertical.
    Take a look at this - that's a picture of a 130m deep borehole going in the front garden of our house in Montreal. The garden is about the same length as the lorry the drilling rig is mounted on.


    That said, some of the new mini-split ASHPs are almost as efficient as a GSHP in the UK climate.

    Paul in Montreal.
  3.  
    Hi Paul, Why did you dig to 130 metres, clearly the further down you go the hotter it gets, the hotter the water that comes up the more efficient the heat pump would be, so did you stop there?
    Are there practical barrriers to going down further, or just cost
    any other hints about doing it in Wales
    • CommentAuthorPeter A
    • CommentTimeSep 5th 2007
     
    Alec, have a look at NIBE ASHP's, Fighter 410 might do the job for you, it has no outside coil and also includes a heat recovery unit, could run in tandem with your coal stove to improve its performance.
    • CommentAuthorSimonH
    • CommentTimeSep 11th 2007
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: chrisslader</cite>Hi Paul, Why did you dig to 130 metres, clearly the further down you go the hotter it gets, the hotter the water that comes up the more efficient the heat pump would be, so did you stop there?
    Are there practical barrriers to going down further, or just cost
    any other hints about doing it in Wales</blockquote>

    Hi Chris, the length of pipe will be worked out by the heat requirement of the house. From this, and knowledge of the underlying geology, you can work out what length of pipe you need on the send and return to pick up enough heat out of the ground to heat your house at min outside temperature. Somewhere around 150 meters is fairly standard. If you need more heat the tendency is to go for more boreholes. What you need to not mix up is a geothermal system - like they'd have in iceland, where is does get proper hot when you start digging deeper. In most part of the UK under the ground is a nice steady temperature, somewhere under 15 degrees (I think about 12!).

    To Alec - the original poster, I've heard reports that airsource pumps are horrendously expensive to run, when it's cold outside. I.e the time you need them most. This is because there's less heat in the air and so they run less efficiently. A guy on a training course I did had a full SAP assessment done on his house comparing running costs for an ASHP and a Gas combi. Heat pump was at least double (can't remember the actual costs - it could have been 10 times as in a magnitude higher). But you should consider a bore hole driven GSHP. The hole will cost a lot though. Been trying to find out a cheap way to get this done in an urban environment. The best idea is to get all my neighbours to do it at the same time, so we only need one survey and move the rig down the street as he finishes off the previous job. Just about to move house, so will write back one day if I'm successful!

    Simon
  4.  
    Chris,

    Simon is correct. The length of pipe was determined by the amount of heat to be transferred. The ground temperature is equal to the annual average air temperature at your location. For me, it's around 7C. A GSHP is really a "Ground Source" heat pump, though many people refer to this as geothermal, as Simon points out, geothermal energy is the "hot rock" type as typified by that in Iceland. Of course, if you dig deep enough, you will eventually hit rocks hot enough to boil water ... but it could be dozens of km before you get to it.

    As for ASHPs being horrendously expensive to run, there's two components to this. The capacity of the pump drops with temperature so it may well end up undersized and you'll require backup heat (typically electric resistance for air-to-air heat pumps) plus, once the outdoor temperature gets close to freezing (or below) the heatpump will require "defrost cycles" to remove the ice that forms on the heat exchanger. This requires energy too - which lowers the overall COP. However, COPs greater than 1 are available all the way down to -18C - so a heatpump is still more efficient than straight resistance heating - but that cost is, of course, dependent on your electrical costs.

    Here in Montreal, even electric resistance heating is cheaper than pretty much any fuel source (including natural gas in a high efficiency boiler/furnace). So heatpumps are really cost effective, even at low temperatures. In a dual-fuel setup over here, the heatpump is often set to work down to -18C (though if the bi-energy electrical tarrif is used, the switch point in Montreal is -12C - above this, the electricity is half the usual rate, below this, it is 4x the usual rate).

    Paul in Montreal
  5.  
    Has anybody come across this product:

    http://www.genvex.co.uk/genvex-air.asp

    I spoke to the gut at Genvex about it and was quite convincing, (I suppose they always are), its priced at about the cost of they're higher end MHRV units (£4k+) and would seem to do away with the need for gas, especially if paired w/ solar thermal and or wood burner. In a AECB Silver+ standard house (for insulation + airtightness).

    Has anybody any views / advice... in terms of energy /economics...?

    On other attraction was that even if it only limped its way through cold winters the stove/solar could be added post completion to spread the cost of services on the project as long as provision was made.

    J
    • CommentAuthorSimonH
    • CommentTimeSep 13th 2007
     
    Hi Paul,

    Interesting your explanation of the ASHP, I've never bothered reading much about them - although I do know they are becoming De Fecto install in Phoenix - I worked out there back in 1997 for a month and just about every house builder was advertising the fact. Does Canada not have a natrual gas supply? Here in the UK gas costs about 1/3 of main electric about 3 p for gas vs 10p for electric. - so you need to get a COP of 3 before it pays to install a HP if you have mains gas available. That's ignoring capital costs, with a heatpump costing circa £4,000 and a gas boiler around £1,000. However we've recently become a net importer of gas, so are dependent on foreign supplies.

    I'm in a situation where I'm looking at what is the best "future proof" integrated system with minimum emmissions to retrofit to a 1960s house. I've puposly chose a property with a south facing roof elevation, and one that needs a lot of work doing. Having a 1 year old son and just about to move to the best school area for 20 miles, I expect to be there for 18 years or more. In this time frame carbon trading will have taken off, and we may well be facing peak oil and the associated rise in gas prices that will cause. Any way - won't divert the thread - I'll be posting a new thread about that when I've done some more research - to ask questions on my findings ;-).

    Simon
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 13th 2007
     
    Simon, the best way to future proof would be to design out the heating system all together by installing high enough levels of insulation. With 20 years to play with you can afford to spend now on this even on borrowed money and never have to pay for space heating or maintenance of plant of replacement. Solar hot water is a must and may be pvt too. Look forward to the findings and questions.
  6.  
    With regard to 'designing out to heating system' how would one go about heating hot water, particulalry in the winter and on cloudy days without a boiler. Solar thermal wouldn't work and getting up early in the morning to light the woodburner every day does not appeal particularly on the resale market, it would also provide unnecessary heat on warm cloudy days

    This is what attracts me to the system mentioned as it seems capable of providing DHW and MHRV, most of the space heating can be 'designed out' with solid local fsc fuelled woodburner.

    However it all seems a bit too good to be true.....
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 15th 2007
     
    Well designed solar will make water warm enough for showers even on many cloudy days. I would suggest a very much larger store and then there would only be a problem for prolonged cloudy periods when a back up heat supply could be used.
  7.  
    Tony,
    Please... tell me more...

    "well designed" : Evac tubes + lots of em? Expensive German types or cheap imports?

    "much larger store" had previously looked at DPS stores (http://www.heatweb.com/)... what would you suggest? (for 2 adults 3 kids, with as you say heating load largely designed out).

    Also 'am gonna have to pay for MHRV anyway... or would you suggest passive stack...

    J
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 16th 2007
     
    400l solar store for HW possibly as a pre heat arrangement with 120l available at 55 most of the time. Evac tubes would be nice but not completely necessary as even a good sized ( 6m^2) diy panel will do.

    MHVR is a must and super low air leakage. NOT passive stack. If u insulate really well you should not need a heating system and on the coldest days couple of weeks a year some heat can be added to the building anywhere even inside the MHVR to cope. Then the thermal store idea may be not needed.
  8.  
    with regards to the air source heatpumps .mitsubishi are marketing one with a company called gledhill .gledhill are a heating and hot water appliance manufacturer in the uk ,theynhave developed a store for the hot water at mains pressure with built in emergency immersion heaters for heating and hotwater .the mitsubishi unit is 9kw inverter driven cntrolled by the gledhill unit .it has a cop of 3.46 meaning for every kw of power you input you get 3.5 kw out of heat .it seems to sugest temperatures of minus 20 to plus 35 for running .it also says if paired with a tariff such as economy 10 it will run 20%cheaper than gas .it can be used on underfloor and radiators and reaches a temperature of about 50 to 55 degrees .perfect for under floor.and no gas or oil tank needed .
  9.  
    'Thing is, if I'm able to design out most of the heating load, so don't need the air to water for heating but I've still got the DHW load (particularly on cloudy winter days) to take care of, the Genvex system seems to be saying that for the same price as the MHRV system I'm paying for anyway I can have a system that ditches the boiler, (and therefore ditches also the need for a mains gas connection? ££ ?)...

    ...but then again what do we know about things that seem too good to be true... (they useually are!).

    J
    • CommentAuthorstork
    • CommentTimeNov 21st 2007
     
    We are thinking of building a house in Denmark. In the research, we met a company called Trelleborg. They specify Genvex heat pumps for all their houses. When I suggested that perhaps a solar panel on the roof for hot water would also make sense, they argued vehemently that we would never recover the capital and that it was pointless.

    There system works by extracting air from some rooms (anywhere with a tap in fact) and taking it through a heat exchanger + pump and dumping it outside. The incoming air is piped through filters and the exchanger/pump to the other rooms. They combine this approach with a VERY high standard of insulation. (They market themselves as '0-energy-house'.

    I could see no reason why they would align themselves so strongly to air source heat pumps. I offer this as a reply to James' query, though would appreciate comments, positive or negative.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeNov 21st 2007
     
    To say that you will never recover the capital cost is difficult to believe because there must come a point when it will have paid for itself even when lined up against a heat pump. They could try arguing that it would take four times as long and that by that time we might not be here any more but even then there will still come a point when it will have paid for itself.
  10.  
    Stork

    Can only find a Danish website and my danish is not so good, neither is InterTran's by the looks of it...

    Do Trelleborg use anything else at all for heating water other than the Genvex?

    If so is the solar panel answer explained by the suggestion that: over and above the heat pump the panel will have less effect rather than what the effect the panel would have on a 'normal' house/DHW system

    J
    • CommentAuthorworkaholic
    • CommentTimeNov 22nd 2007
     
    Elsewhere in this forum someone mentioned suggested the Trianco ASHP. It is worth looking at the Trianco Web site. They are going into ASHPs as oil boilers are a dying breed.
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