Thu, 04 Jun 2026 18:12:58 +0100 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=44926#Comment_44926 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=44926#Comment_44926 Tue, 27 Jan 2009 20:40:34 +0000 Janetta
Some time ago Saint (May 6th 2008, Housing-Renovation: Internal insulation on solid walls) mentioned that some Italian contractors have completed projects on uneven and curved walls using a 10mm Aerogel fleece by applying bonding plaster to the wall and whilst still wet pushing Aerogel fleece into it. Leaving that until the next day to go off they then finish traditionally with more bonding plaster and then a skim coat. This allowed them to follow the wall contours exactly and thinly.

I have some 9mm spacetherm on order. I'm going to try some experiments using this method in a North facing utility room, then a North facing landing - before trying in a room with curved walls/ornate picture rail/cornice. The house has solid granite walls, the original ?lime plaster and original render. We can not add external insulation because the building is listed.

Has anyone tried this method at all? Did you also mechanically fix the spacetherm? Did the plaster adhere well? Was standard Gypsum used or has anyone tried 'Lightweight Gypsum', lime or clay plasters? I would appreciate any comments/tips you have before we 'have a go'!

Many Thanks,

Janetta]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=44944#Comment_44944 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=44944#Comment_44944 Tue, 27 Jan 2009 21:36:09 +0000 skywalker
http://www.aerogel.com/markets/Case_Study_House_Renovation_web.pdf

You may be better off talking to Proctors as they will probably be interested in what you are doing and should be able to advise.

S.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=44960#Comment_44960 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=44960#Comment_44960 Tue, 27 Jan 2009 22:17:32 +0000 Janetta
Thanks for your reply.

I don't _think_ that it is the same case study. I had seen the one you mention - and this could be the same method - but there is not enough detail. I tried contacting Aspens a number of times for more details - via the web 'form' but not had a reply. Perhaps the 'form' isn't working properly!

Proctors have been really helpful and have answered my questions as much as possible. A lady who replied to my enquiry had heard about the work in Italy (perhaps via greenbuilding forum), but said that Proctors haven't done any testing or studies using it in this way and have thus no knowledge of compliance to fire regs, durability etc. She didn't doubt that it would work - but they could not provide details or specification as they have not been involved in this type of application. Fair enough I guess!

Janetta]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=44969#Comment_44969 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=44969#Comment_44969 Tue, 27 Jan 2009 22:43:50 +0000 skywalker
A great shame, we need lots more UK examples of aerogel use and yours sounds perfect.

Sorry I couldn't help more.

S.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=45083#Comment_45083 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=45083#Comment_45083 Wed, 28 Jan 2009 15:51:14 +0000 fostertom https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=45123#Comment_45123 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=45123#Comment_45123 Wed, 28 Jan 2009 18:45:05 +0000 Saint
Ask Proctors to put you in touch directly with Aspen in Europe, headquartered in Germany. The experience in this type of application has been gained in mainland Europe. Recently a large 600 year old Swiss mill was renovated using this type of construction internally and externally. The external render was a lime based cement approx 30mm thick I believe on 3 or 4 layers of Aerogel that were applied using standard EIFS type reinforcement and fixings. Internally a lime based plaster with reinforcement
The overriding reasons for using the Aerogel fleece was that firstly it is thin, secondly it is flexible thus better than rigid boards on an old somewhat curvy and lumpy property and it is "breathable" i.e. vapour permeable]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=45137#Comment_45137 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=45137#Comment_45137 Wed, 28 Jan 2009 19:57:49 +0000 Janetta
Fostertom, yes - I agree one layer is poor - but at least it will bring the U-value, in those places we can only use one layer, from about 3 to about 0.9 for the present. Better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick! The electric company wanted £275 per month when we moved in, based upon the previous owner’s use of electric convector heaters, and there are only 3 bedrooms plus an attic room! We've already added decent insulation to the roof and insulated the ground floors - but the walls are tricky. In one room there is ornate plaster work (surprising for an old Jersey farmhouse) - our only option is something _really_ thin unless we choose to remove all the plasterwork (no way!). In another room, there are curved walls - perhaps we could add more here in the same way later or use the 'wallpaper' Proctors are bringing out soon (but may need anaglypta over the wallpaper). In a rear room the walls are really lumpy/bumpy. Although I said external insulation is not an option (the building is on the Jersey historic building register), in the future we do hope to get planning permission to add insulation to the 'rough rendered' rear North wall and side East wall. The original front, South, faces the road and would be difficult to insulate without altering the character. The west adjoins another building.

Saint, good idea – I’ll contact Proctors and ask to be put in contact with Aspen Europe. Thanks also for the info about the Swiss mill. Really useful stuff. I’d love it if our (long-term) builder would use lime plaster – but he’s already scratching his head at what we’re asking him to try. As somebody used to gypsum, lime may be the final straw! We’ve thought long and hard and really want a breathable solution to avoid the creation of a damp problem (as per info sheet 4 and tech pamphlet 10, The Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings). Do you think gypsum would be OK or should we stick out for lime? At the moment we plan to put a log-burner in the main room and, once air tight, a MVHR system with extract air HP (e.g. Genvex Combi) which should keep the humidty at sensible levels.

Thanks again

Janetta]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=45140#Comment_45140 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=45140#Comment_45140 Wed, 28 Jan 2009 20:03:38 +0000 Janetta should have said ".....and tech pamphlet 8 ...." (not 10)
Janetta]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=49808#Comment_49808 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=49808#Comment_49808 Thu, 05 Mar 2009 18:00:32 +0000 mel_man
Its only one room its not worth it...
Kitchen has approx 30msq external wall and 9smq is doubleglazed window or door, so its not worth it...
Its spongey, is it Ok to hang heavy kitchen cabinets on it.. it's not worth it...

I know its expensive, but I don't want to have to re form window/door areas and replace the original coving. I'm looking at 15mm (10+5 new layer thicknesses) + 10 Fermicell, giving 25mm just marginly thicker than existing plaster that will be removed.

Can anyone tell me how to calculate U value for walls, without getting a thermal engineer in, a number might convince the wife.

As for expected payback time I have no idea..

Dazed and confused]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=49845#Comment_49845 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=49845#Comment_49845 Thu, 05 Mar 2009 23:26:16 +0000 Saint
Just looking at the increased insulation level on the wall alone. Assuming its a solid wall the accepted U value is taken as 2.1W/m2K Just by adding 10mm Fermacell and 15mm of Aerogel you will reduce that U value to 0.63 W/m2K i.e an improvement of 70%.
As you've said there is a significant glazed area that remains unchanged so you need to assess the impact of having that wall area insulated against the total lesser insulated remainder and check the aggregated improvement]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=49909#Comment_49909 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=49909#Comment_49909 Fri, 06 Mar 2009 18:19:12 +0000 alant I am considering this for internal insulation for my Granite cottage but am also unsure about how to attach it to the walls and how to apply a render, please keep us updated.
Cheers
Alan]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=49949#Comment_49949 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=49949#Comment_49949 Sat, 07 Mar 2009 09:09:35 +0000 Saint
At Futurebuild (or was it Ecobuild?) Proctors were demonstrating a new fixing method for the Fermacell/Aerogel laminate that was pretty neat. No plugging involved just drill and drive with special screws from Spit.
They also had the first showings of a "wallpaper" type product based on the Aerogel fleece. At the moment it has a foil face so difficult to paint over but I'm told that will change. There was an example of wallpaper being applied directly to it although the paper chosen wouldn't have looked out of place in my local but at least they're getting there]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=49992#Comment_49992 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=49992#Comment_49992 Sat, 07 Mar 2009 20:31:47 +0000 BobP
IMO they will need to add a stiff surface layer (as with Sempatap) in order to get a decent finish.

Hoping to insulate a Victorian loft & maybe a couple of external walls with this stuff.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=49996#Comment_49996 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=49996#Comment_49996 Sat, 07 Mar 2009 22:56:12 +0000 fostertom https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=59841#Comment_59841 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=59841#Comment_59841 Sun, 09 Aug 2009 19:40:59 +0100 arnyj
I want to use spacetherm on my bathroom cieling I had a look on proctors website and soon after spoke to there tec. person on phone they rang me most impressive.

She told me that if I intended to use spacetherm... to meet building regs of 0.16 then I would have to use 85mm and she reconmended it was bonded to plasterboard to make it as light as possible.
She said Fermacell would make it quite heavy, which I was somewhat alarmed AT.

I am not aware of the existing roof / cieling U value so I am only using there info.

If I was to use a kingspan type board how thick would insulation have to be?

I was not aware it could be put on without any backing board ?
could I therefore buy it as a sheet and then put on ply wood or even get it fixed to ply

I was told 20mm clad to plasterboard would cost £54 plus vat for a sq. metre,, less whatever discount we can get from builders merchant.

Some one has said it is breathable is that true? I thought man made materials were not!

yours sincerly Arnyj or Arnold]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=59847#Comment_59847 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=59847#Comment_59847 Sun, 09 Aug 2009 22:25:10 +0100 Nick Parsons https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=78784#Comment_78784 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=78784#Comment_78784 Mon, 29 Mar 2010 15:27:44 +0100 suegreenbuilding https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=150969#Comment_150969 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=150969#Comment_150969 Sun, 08 Jul 2012 15:58:58 +0100 Janetta
Inially the general builder tried two layers of spacetherm on the landing - these were then covered with a layer of plasterboard and skimmed. Proctors were really good - can't praise them enough - they did some calculations to check for condensation (as the spacetherm is breathable and we weren't using foil) and these showed that there may be some condensation for low outside temperatures but the wall would dry out. The experiment worked well. There was a really noticable difference - so the utility and cloakroom were then done in the same way. Another big noticable difference.

He then tried the bathroom which has an arched area - using just one layer of spacetherm. The photos I got from Aspens showed a wet primer (gypsum or lime) layer onto which spacetherm is positioned plus some mechanical fixation (4 fixing points per square metre) and a "standard" plaster's mesh and then more gypsum or lime. He was going to follow their method (I was at work so missed seeing it done) - using gypsum. We were limited, due to space, to one layer here but Aspens say another layer can be added (using spray PU adhesive).

The two issues were the dust (gloves essential, ideally mask and even overalls and a vacuum with a hepa filter) and when doing any mechanical fixation he found that the drill bit snagged on the spacetherem with ease.

We've also used spacetherm under the kitchen floor - we couldn't allow the floor to come up too much. Again this has helped.

At the moment an en-suite is being put in and the builders have added two layers of spacetherm to all the external walls - using plasterboard on top as per the landing and utility. It has turned a very chilly room into a cosy one.

Most North and some East walls have been insulated now (some, where there was more space, with Rockwool).

I hope to use the spacetherm 'wallpaper' for the next room - if it easy to use now.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=151129#Comment_151129 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=151129#Comment_151129 Tue, 10 Jul 2012 09:02:42 +0100 RobinB Posted By: JanettaI hope to use the spacetherm 'wallpaper' for the next room - if it easy to use now.

Does this stuff exist now? Do you have a link please? A quick google didn't find but threw up Sempatap which doesn't see the same - or is it?
thanks!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=151136#Comment_151136 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=151136#Comment_151136 Tue, 10 Jul 2012 09:17:25 +0100 Mike (Up North)
No Sempatap isn’t the same thing; it’s a fairly dense foam wallpaper type. It’s a bit like covering the walls with a yoga mat. Again it’s been discussed here so another search will throw up some info. The main thing was that it’s not thick enough or offer enough insulation (resistance) to make much difference to room temps or energy consumption. That said something is better than nothing, and plaster straight on to solid wall straight to outside will always feel very cool (like a marble worktop), so for some even very small layers of insulation will give an apparent improvement by preventing the walls from feeling like a grave. The other factor is that as something like Sempatap will slightly increase the wall surface temperature (inside the room) it may make the difference if condensation has been a problem. The water vapour will go for the coldest surface and that can be a problem for some people (obviously proper ventilation is key) that could in some cases be alleviated by a slight rise in temp. Which is equivalent to a little more heat in the room.

Cheers, Mike up North]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=151154#Comment_151154 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=151154#Comment_151154 Tue, 10 Jul 2012 11:22:26 +0100 DamonHD
Rgds

Damon]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=151394#Comment_151394 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=151394#Comment_151394 Thu, 12 Jul 2012 16:31:02 +0100 Graeme Berry

Janetta, glad to hear everything worked well for you. If you or your builders have any hints or tips to feedback on this type of installation we'd be pleased to hear from you. We're getting more interest in this kind of use, particularly on uneven walls (to retain the character of the building), so any info on site experiences is greatly appreciated.

Graeme Berry (Tech Researcher at Proctors)]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=151514#Comment_151514 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=151514#Comment_151514 Fri, 13 Jul 2012 16:47:46 +0100 RobinB https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=153450#Comment_153450 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=153450#Comment_153450 Wed, 08 Aug 2012 00:05:23 +0100 muddy https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=170458#Comment_170458 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=170458#Comment_170458 Sat, 16 Mar 2013 12:11:09 +0000 Bob M https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=186577#Comment_186577 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=186577#Comment_186577 Wed, 16 Oct 2013 09:10:36 +0100 Pile-o-Stone
Can anyone who has used the aerogel blanket on window reveals let me know how it was fixed? Like muddy, I have very little space to play with and I need to keep it breathable. I'm hoping I can just put a layer of lime plaster on the stone, then the aerogel blanket and then a top coat of lime. Would this hold?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=186578#Comment_186578 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=186578#Comment_186578 Wed, 16 Oct 2013 09:31:44 +0100 Sprocket
Unfortunately no.
The blanket by itself is like thick and heavy felt. It does not wet easily and is not particularly permeable to plaster. For safety sake it is best to assume that nothing will stick to it.

You ideally need some sort of lath (eg. we used EML though maybe someone here can suggest something better) over the top of the spacetherm to take the plaster.

Then of course, how do you fix the lath? We managed to wedge ours in against the edge of the new window frames. Sounds messy but it worked quite well in the end and I cannot see any cold spots with the thermal imager even when really cold outside.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=186579#Comment_186579 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=186579#Comment_186579 Wed, 16 Oct 2013 09:43:38 +0100 Graeme Berry
The way i would approach this (note: not "official" proctor methods at the moment, try at your own risk) would either be 1) lime parge coat over reveal, then bond on a plasterboard/fermacell faced board using either silicon mastic or expanding foam (in strips or dabs to keep some permeability) or 2) stick the aerogel blanket to the reveal as for 1, then mechnically fix a metal lath through the blanket into the stone (separating layer recommended) then plaster onto the lath.

i've got the exact same issue in my house, and i'll most likely be using something similar to these options (might even take some pictures...), however will probably be a few weeks till i get round to doing it. Both methods have been used successfully before though.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=186626#Comment_186626 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=186626#Comment_186626 Wed, 16 Oct 2013 19:52:03 +0100 Noodle
Am very interested if people are using it as a breathable insulation on solid walled buildings? Is there much information on this apart from the 2 links below? It has Building control approval now?

http://www.airtightdistribution.com/pdfs/Spaceloft_Data_Sheet.pdf

http://www.aerogel.com/markets/Case_Study_House_Renovation_web.pdf


Not quite clear, are the people above using this as internal or external? Does anyone have any advice/ experience / other sources of info for its external use/ fixing finished with a lime render?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=186665#Comment_186665 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3412&Focus=186665#Comment_186665 Thu, 17 Oct 2013 09:15:04 +0100 davidfreeborough
http://www.ecofine.it/it/isolamento-termico/23/aerogel.html

http://www.ecofine.it/allegati/upload/20130306/20130306160921catalogo-prodotti-ecofine_v1.7.pdf

Try also reading through the following thread:

http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/forum114/comments.php?DiscussionID=11117

David]]>