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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorRosie
    • CommentTimeJan 30th 2009
     
    One of our bedrooms has apparently already been insulated on the ceiling with a layer of polystyrene before the plasterboard. As this room is much warmer than the others and the ceilings need doing anyway we are very tempted to do it in the other rooms.

    I know the normal route is loft insulation, which we will do as well, but there are eves (which we have been told to leave free of insulation for ventilation) that form the sloping part of the ceiling. Plus loft access is a nightmare and there is boarding in the way as well.

    If we do go for it, Any advice on material? So far we have been comparing the kingspan insulated plasterboard and just polystyrene under normal plasterboard.

    We have asked 3 plasterers, all of whom basically think we are mad. Are they right or just behind the times??!!
    I really need advice to steer me out of the quagmire that has developed in my brain!
    Thanks in advance
    • CommentAuthorskywalker
    • CommentTimeJan 30th 2009
     
    Rosie

    Do a forum search on 'skeilings' - it is possible to insulate between the rafters in them (I and many others have done it).

    PUR backed plasterboard (kingspan & lots of other makes) is the way to go in terms of performance per given thickness but there are other technicalities to get your head around.

    YOU are not mad - all doable, a bit messy, but well worth it.

    cooking tea at the moment so will give some more answers (and ask a few questions) when I have more time (others will join in for sure).


    S.
    • CommentAuthorken davis
    • CommentTimeJan 30th 2009
     
    Have made comments elsewhere about creating an artificial skeiling at the eaves internally (45 degrees and about 300 deep) where heat loss is greatest (creates a coffered effect in the room). The question is do you have enough height to lowere the ceiling? If you do then what about creating a vaulted ceiling? Did you know that plasterboard bends quite easily? Just lean it against a wall for a few days, if a big bend it may need a light spray with water occasionally. The beauty of a vaulted ceiling is not only that it looks good and you can put in insulation where it is needed most (well at two ends anyway) is that you can put in fibre-optic lighting and have a ceiling that looks like twinkling stars! Just batten up to u/s ex ceiling, make ply formers to the shape you want and fix more battens to lower curved edge, fix curved p/b to the u/side, stuff in rockwool/sheeps wool/ecowool as you go!
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJan 30th 2009
     
    It is always cheaper to fix insulation then plasterboard in terms of materials costs sometimes even when labour is added in to

    whenever I needed fix composite boards I always fixed sheet insulation first then a vapour/air sealing layer then plasterboard.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeJan 30th 2009
     
    Bear in mind you need something like 130mm of PUR to meet the building regs. Can you afford to lower the ceiling that much or would it look odd? Got any down lights?
    • CommentAuthorRosie
    • CommentTimeJan 31st 2009
     
    I'm not really concerned about looking odd - in fact that would be quite in keeping with the building and inhabitants! I would just like it not to be freezing. I don't think lowering the ceiling would be a problem, and no we haven't got any down lights.
    Thanks
  1.  
    I have a similar problem, but not with skeilings. My open-plan sitting room with stairs to the side has a vaulted monopitch ceiling from standard height to about 14 feet at the peak. It's currently clad with T&G nailed to joists and the cladding has warped in places.
    I suspect that the insulation between the cladding and the slates is well below current standards and I would like to do something about it. Without stripping all the t&g off (exceedingly messy), can I just add some insulation on top of the underside of the t&g (if you see what I mean)?
    If so, what and how? If not, any suggestions?
  2.  
    Rosie,
    Did the plasterers specify what they thaught was mad. Just interested. For my compenduium of what people want/ask for vs what various trades want to give then (or can give them).
    Fitting insulation well enough to be useful is notoriously difficult and time consuming as searches here will show. it may have been that they simply didnt want to get drawn into to doing it the very careful way which would then be expensive and time consuming.
    Just interested
    Mike up North
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