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			<title>Green Building Forum - roof ventilation and insulation</title>
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		<title>roof ventilation and insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3834&amp;Focus=51376#Comment_51376</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Apr 2009 13:21:19 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>miltwin</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[I'm a little new to this so bear with me if I've missed the blindingly obvious.<br /><br />We are re-building a small granite barn (6m x 3m) for 'ancillary accomodation' and, despite reading and reading, I am a little concerned over the roof ventilation between slate and batten.<br /><br />The barn is being re-built as a breathable building, i.e. lime used throughout, etc. The pitched roof will have 150mm sheepswool insulation (no air gap), a klober perma-forte membrane, battens and then wet-laid slates. <br /><br />The issue I can't resolve is whether I should be using counter-battens:<br /><br />- to allow run-off of vapour condensing on the back of the tiles/slates?<br />- to provide adequate ventilation? <br /><br />I realise that there is probably not enough insulation in the roof but this is a necessary compromise for headroom. We are restricted on overall height as we live in a conservation area.<br /><br />What boards to people recommend for supporting the wool/underside? Pavatherm Floor NK? I'd like to avoid plasterboard.<br /><br />Thanks for any advice given.<br /><br />Robin]]>
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		<title>roof ventilation and insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3834&amp;Focus=51391#Comment_51391</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Apr 2009 19:00:04 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>tychwarel</author>
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			<![CDATA[definitely use counterbattens, minimum of 25X50 your battens should also be the same size.<br /><br />You will need over verge ventilators that will sit on top of the fascias and over the membrane,<br /><br />pavatherm would be good as an underlayer as it will increase your insulation value, however your inner layer needs to be at least 5 times less vapour permeable than the perma forte and for that pavatherm nk on its own wouldn't be good enough.]]>
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		<title>roof ventilation and insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3834&amp;Focus=51398#Comment_51398</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Apr 2009 21:06:56 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>CWatters</author>
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			<![CDATA[Do the Building Regulations not require a vapour barrier?]]>
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		<title>roof ventilation and insulation</title>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Apr 2009 21:45:47 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Mike George</author>
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			<![CDATA[That's an interesting question. I do not believe they are explicitly required.  Though if using any certified 'system' you would be expected to comply with the relevant specification [BBA for example] Some methods require VB's, some do not. <br /><br />The so-called breathing construction methods would not require a VB Sheepswool for example has a BBA <a href="http://www.secondnatureuk.com/files/pdf/BBA_Brochure.pdf" target="_self" rel="nofollow">http://www.secondnatureuk.com/files/pdf/BBA_Brochure.pdf</a> Detail pg2]]>
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		<title>roof ventilation and insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3834&amp;Focus=51406#Comment_51406</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Apr 2009 23:22:40 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>miltwin</author>
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			<![CDATA[Thanks for replying.<br /><br />I'll run it past the building inspector asap. Hadn't occurred to me to call them. So much to do. I hope they are sympathetic and agree that a vapour barrier is not required.<br /><br />The passed plans had foil-backed plasterboard / 100mm celotex / thinsulex foil over rafters /  50mm air gap / tyvek breathable membrane / battens / tiles. I can't help think that this would've stored up problems for our granite, lime rendered barn and would seem more suitable for a new build.<br /><br />The granite walls are uninsulated by the way.<br /><br />tychwarel, do you mean something like these over fascia vents - but on top of the membrane?<br /><br />http://www.klober.co.uk/product2.php?id=12<br /><br />And why does the inner layer need to be at least 5 times less vapour permeable than the perma forte? I'm a bit confused on that one. Isn't the idea to help, not hinder, the water vapour through the roof?<br /><br />I've much to learn.<br /><br />Thanks again for your comments.]]>
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		<title>roof ventilation and insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3834&amp;Focus=51409#Comment_51409</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 07 Apr 2009 08:48:07 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>tychwarel</author>
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			<![CDATA[Those are the fascia vents and yes put them over the membrane.<br /><br />The inner layer has to be less vapour permeable because the flow of water vapour is from the warm wet inside to the relatively cold dryer outside. hence it is important that any vapour that gets into the roof structure has a free flow to the outside. the easiest way of doing this is to put any vapour restriction on the inside.<br /><br />Also it is highly unlikely that building a vapour tight roof (one with a vapour membrane) would have any effect on the breathability of a mass granite wall particularly as the only possible vapour or liquid water transfer through such a wall will be through the mortar joints.]]>
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		<title>roof ventilation and insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3834&amp;Focus=51413#Comment_51413</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 07 Apr 2009 11:02:08 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>miltwin</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Had a word with the building inspector.<br /><br />He was adamant that using such a thickness of wool will not pass building regs. My partner will not compromise on headroom so that's possibly the end of a breathable roof.<br /><br />The inspector also thought that we'd been fortunate as it is to have had regs pass the insulation in the plans (see above)... probably something to do with the age and size of the barn.<br /><br />In the hope of rescuing the situation - or now really for my information I suppose, can anyone tell me what the equivalent thickness of fleece is that I would require. I'm lost in the figures given by celotex/thermafleece and the like but am still researching - it's got to be somewhere out there or in another forum post.<br /><br />It's a struggle all of this. I don't want to use petro-chemical stuff but it looks like I have no choice.<br /><br />tychwarel, thanks for the vent tips. I understood granite to be porous, especially, as in our case, where poor quality granite was used.<br /><br />Thanks all.]]>
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		<title>roof ventilation and insulation</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 07 Apr 2009 11:28:45 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Nick Parsons</author>
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			<![CDATA[To calc the u value:<br /><br />Thickness in metres (so 150mm = 0.15) / thermal conductivity (0.039, I think, for Thermafleece) = the R value (3.84)<br />Plasterboard 10mm or so I think has an R value of 0.19. Combined internal and external surface resistances = c 0.15.<br /><br />Total R in this instance = 4.18<br /><br />1/R = U (= 0.24 in this case - it won't pass even on this 'bald' figure, and I have allowed nothing for thermal bridging). Come to think of it, I was just about to quote part L1B (refurb) when I looked back and saw 'rebuilding'. Is this refurb or new-build on an old footprint? (If refurb, sloping ceilings require U = 0.2. Flat ceilings, U = 0.16).<br /><br />Manufs/suppliers will calc U value for you anyway, but it's useful to have the above at your fingertips for quick checks.]]>
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		<title>roof ventilation and insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3834&amp;Focus=51423#Comment_51423</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 07 Apr 2009 13:18:57 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>miltwin</author>
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			<![CDATA[Thanks for the calcs. Couldn't see the wood for the trees.<br /><br />It's a completely new roof on an old building. The previous roof was aging asbestos sheets (and that was a nice disposal job!) with decaying rafters/beams.<br /><br />A friend said we should've demolished the barn and had an allotment instead!]]>
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		<title>roof ventilation and insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3834&amp;Focus=51437#Comment_51437</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 07 Apr 2009 19:12:28 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>CWatters</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: miltwin</cite> And why does the inner layer need to be at least 5 times less vapour permeable than the perma forte? I'm a bit confused on that one. Isn't the idea to help, not hinder, the water vapour through the roof? </blockquote><br /><br />No these days the concern is to prevent water vapour from inside the house condensing in the structure of the roof. To avoid this a belt and braces approace is normally adopted:<br /><br />A vapour barrier installed on the  warm side of the insulation stops any vapour getting through the insulation to the cold side where it might condense. <br />AND <br />The timbers on the cold side are ventilated to allow any that does get through to escape. <br /><br />The latter can be done one of two ways. You can either use<br /><br />1) an impermeable membrane AND a 50mm ventilated cavity under it. <br />2) a vapour permeable membrane and no ventilated cavity.<br /><br />However if you decide to go with option 2 you have to check with the insulation manufacturer that this is acceptable. I believe it is for Kingspan. Not sure about other makes. Some require a reduced cavity of 25mm to allow the membrane to drape between the rafters and not contact the insulation etc.]]>
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		<title>roof ventilation and insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3834&amp;Focus=51438#Comment_51438</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 07 Apr 2009 19:15:08 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>CWatters</author>
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			<![CDATA[PS I don't think thinsulex is vapour permeable. So perhaps better to put that on the inside of any other  insulation?]]>
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		<title>roof ventilation and insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3834&amp;Focus=51440#Comment_51440</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 07 Apr 2009 20:02:53 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>david</author>
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			<![CDATA[Miltwin,<br />Sheep farming consumes lots of petrochemicals.  <br />Transport, cultivation, fertilisers, veterinary products etc.<br />Sheep farming damages upland ecology and  pollutes rivers and lakes.<br />Sheeps wool insulation is only a bit green, and as you've discovered it's not as effective as some other insulations which are less expensive.]]>
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		<title>roof ventilation and insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3834&amp;Focus=51441#Comment_51441</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 07 Apr 2009 20:11:47 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Mike George</author>
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			<![CDATA["Sheeps wool is only a bit green" <br /><br />When compared to what david?]]>
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		<title>roof ventilation and insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3834&amp;Focus=51446#Comment_51446</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 07 Apr 2009 21:42:28 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>rogerwhit</author>
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			<![CDATA[In defence of sheep farming, it modifies upland ecology, dependent on stocking density.  Much of our uplands are only suitable for sheep or conifer growing as economic land use - otherwise, if left they will tend to revert to mixed tree cover up to the tree-line, which will include many non-native trees anyway that seed in, eg sitka spruce, plus rhododendron ponticum .... and it occurs to me that sheep farming consumes no more petrochemicals than commercial veg growing ...]]>
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		<title>roof ventilation and insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3834&amp;Focus=51468#Comment_51468</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 08 Apr 2009 11:39:44 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>fostertom</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: CWatters</cite>the concern is to prevent water vapour from inside the house condensing in the structure of the roof. To avoid this a belt and braces approace is normally adopted:<br /><br />A vapour barrier installed on the  warm side of the insulation stops any vapour getting through the insulation to the cold side where it might condense.<br />AND<br />The timbers on the cold side are ventilated to allow any that does get through to escape</blockquote>The point is, there's an alternative to this belt-and-braces approach - that is, the so-called breathing wall concept.<br /><br />The breathing wall concept dipenses with any inboard vapour barrier and instead relies upon a gradient of vapour resistances, so that the inbopard layer's resistance is about five times (some say three times) more water vapour resistant than the outboard layer, and all these resistances are low. The claimed advantage is that it's more natural and healthy for the internal water vapour regime to be in contact with the external, with a controlled interchange ('breathing' in and out) between, rather than hermetically isolating the internal water vapour regime from the external with a vapour barrier, which being just a sheet of plastic film is unlikely to remain fully intact though the life of the building (pinholes and hairline cracks are quite enough to seriously breach a vapour barrier).<br /><br />Also, absence of a vapour barrier allows any hygroscopic properties that the insulation may have, to be available to the interior, to moderate balance and stabilise its humidity. This is claimed to provide very comfortable conditions, like a cob farmhouse - I can vouch for the latter. Such hygroscopic insulations are basically the plant/animal ones - sheeps wool, Warmcel etc. Hemcrete similarly. Artificial insulations have negligible hygroscopicity.<br /><br />Excel, the Warmcel co, are the main champions of 'breathing wall'. However, I've so far found no authoritative research/papers to back the concept. Where does the 'five times' rule-of-thumb come from? Does anyone have anything?]]>
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		<title>roof ventilation and insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3834&amp;Focus=51483#Comment_51483</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 08 Apr 2009 15:17:21 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>CWatters</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: fostertom</cite>  Where does the 'five times' rule-of-thumb come from? Does anyone have anything?</blockquote><br /><br />Probably done to ensure that water vapour allways evaporates away on the outside faster than it can enter the wall on the inside.  I can see it working if done right. I'd still be nervous about relying on this in a modern timber framed house or roof but can't see a problem for a brick wall. I guess the the question is do breathable walls and roof eliminate the need for room ventilation? If trickle vents or MHRV is still required then why not let that deal with the whole issue of controling humidity?<br /><br />Excel seem to recommend Paneline on the inside and this is an OSB like produce made without glue.. They say....<br /><br />"Natural waxes are added to the Paneline formulation to achieve the required sheathing performance. Panelineâ€™s formulation has been developed to provide the required vapour resistance to control the migration of water vapour from the inside of a building, through the EVT/ TRADIS panel, to the exterior."<br /><br />I believe it's made by.. <br />http://www.panelagency.com/paneline.html<br /><br />but their site is short on technical information about Paneline and I can't tell how permeable it is.]]>
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		<title>roof ventilation and insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3834&amp;Focus=51601#Comment_51601</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Apr 2009 19:49:22 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>david</author>
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			<![CDATA[Mick George<br />"Sheeps wool is only a bit green"  When compared to what david? <br />Rockwool for instance. <br />If you claim sheepwool is "greener" please quote some evidence. <br /><br />Rogerwit<br />"In defence of sheep farming, it modifies upland ecology"<br />This modification has changed moorland and bogs into grassland, removed hundreds of miles of hedges,  created a monoculture of non- native grasses, poisoned watercourses etc.  How is this a defence of sheep farming?    Our taxes paid for this destruction  and now we are paying again to undo some of the damage.<br />Why does all land have to have an economic use?  The uses you cite are both uneconomic.  Sheep farming depends on subsidy and upland sheep farming is disappearing.  There are very few sheep left in N WScotland, the huge flocks of the 1970's have disappeared and large areas of Sutherland & Caithness conifer forest has been restored to bog and moor.<br />Forestry has always been  subsidised and most of the profits made are in the form of tax breaks.<br />"Without sheep much upland would be recolonised by scrub and trees".   <br />And why not?  R. Ponticum is only a problem in a relatively small area and Sycamores should be tolerated.<br />I don't understand the point about commecial veg. growing.  Are you saying that growing veg. is "green" because the same use of petro chemicals is involved?  Or are you saying  sheeps' wool is a good insulation because it uses the same quantity of petrochemicals as growing veg.   We have to eat vegetables. We don't have to use sheeps' wool to insulate houses.]]>
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		<title>roof ventilation and insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3834&amp;Focus=51604#Comment_51604</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Apr 2009 19:57:44 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Mike George</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: david</cite>Mick George<br />"Sheeps wool is only a bit green"  When compared to what david?<br />Rockwool for instance.<br />If you claim sheepwool is "greener" please quote some evidence.</blockquote><br /><br />I think its for you to quote the evidence. You made the asssertion after all, not me. <br /><br />I would have thought though that the energy used to spin stone at a high temperature into mineral wool is significantly greater than the process for turning sheeps wool into....well... sheeps wool. <br /><br />I have to say that I have not read 'evidence' either way so am interested in why you claim the opposite is the case.<br /><br />I am very cynical of so called green products in general as often they often do not live up to the 'spin' <br /><br />I think we should start a thread on this one so as not to hyjack this one - will do so.]]>
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		<title>roof ventilation and insulation</title>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Apr 2009 20:20:48 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>fostertom</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: CWatters</cite>I'd still be nervous about relying on this in a modern timber framed house</blockquote>but<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: CWatters</cite>Excel seem to recommend Paneline on the inside and this is an OSB like produce made without glue.. They say....<br /><br />"Natural waxes are added to the Paneline formulation to achieve the required sheathing performance. Panelineâ€™s formulation has been developed to provide the required vapour resistance to control the migration of water vapour from the inside of a building, through the EVT/ TRADIS panel, to the exterior."</blockquote>so they seem happy enough with it in their timber framed solution. It's frustrating that Excel must have done the research to be that confident, but nothing seems to be available, and their tech guys don't seem to know.]]>
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		<title>roof ventilation and insulation</title>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Apr 2009 20:27:28 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>CWatters</author>
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			<![CDATA[It depends how permeable the paneline is. "Control" could mean block :-)]]>
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		<title>roof ventilation and insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3834&amp;Focus=51613#Comment_51613</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Apr 2009 20:31:14 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>fostertom</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: fostertom</cite>absence of a vapour barrier allows any hygroscopic properties that the insulation may have, to be available to the interior, to moderate balance and stabilise its humidity</blockquote>A current project is an upgrade of a 1985 bungalow with tall 45o pitch raftered room-in-roof. It has vapour check plasterboard and skim and I'm considering blown-in Warmcel.<br /><br />I'm wondering just how much deliberate scratching of the existing vapour control layer on the topside of the plasterboard (accessible once the felt and battens are off) will convert it into a weak-to-moderate vapour resistor, about twice as resistant as the OSB that will go over the rafters and five times as resistant as the outboard breather felt.<br /><br />And will that weak-to-moderate vapour resistance leave the internal water vapour regime effectively/sufficiently connected to the hygroscopic Warmcel?<br /><br />Anyone hazard a comment?]]>
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		<title>roof ventilation and insulation</title>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Apr 2009 20:42:01 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Mike George</author>
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			<![CDATA[Tom, I wouln't worry so long as you use a breather membrane outboard of the Warmcell. Then it doesn't matter how effecive or not the foil back pb is.<br /><br />Just because an insulation is 'breathing' it doesn't mean you cannot restrict the flow of vapour through it. Just that if you do allow it into the insualtion then you must also make sure it evaporates outboard.]]>
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		<title>roof ventilation and insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3834&amp;Focus=51617#Comment_51617</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Apr 2009 20:51:02 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Julian</author>
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			<![CDATA[I asked Excel to look at an EVT type wall of cedar cladding / batten / panelvent / 200mm timber stud with warmcel / paneline / 25mm service void. I was going to use sasmox or fermacell to line it. Excel wouldn't do the calculations because there was "no vapour check". I revised the design, lining with vapour check plasterboard and they were quite happy. There seems to be confusion within Excel itself about EVT.]]>
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		<title>roof ventilation and insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3834&amp;Focus=51618#Comment_51618</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Apr 2009 20:53:36 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>fostertom</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: CWatters</cite>I believe it's made by..<br />http://www.panelagency.com/paneline.html<br /><br />but their site is short on technical information about Paneline and I can't tell how permeable it is.</blockquote><blockquote ><cite >Posted By: CWatters</cite>It depends how permeable the paneline is. "Control" could mean block :-)</blockquote>Here y'are: www.ribaproductselector.com/Document.aspx?ac=&t=8&f=COL811530.pdf&ci=11530&from=4 <br /><br />6.4mm Paneline has water vapour resistance 1.02MNs/g, so a bit more resistant than 12.5 plasterboard 0.75MNs/g and half as resistant as 9mm OSB 1.95MNs/g, according to http://www.greensteps.co.uk/tmp/assets/1163178050906.pdf . In other words, very unresistant! 100mm of blown cellulose insulation (Warmcel) has 4.5MNs/g - more resistant than the inner Paneline, which is wax-modified supposedly to have five times the resistance of the outboard insulation, breather felt etc.<br /><br />It just doesn't add up!]]>
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		<title>roof ventilation and insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3834&amp;Focus=51626#Comment_51626</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Apr 2009 21:19:30 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>fostertom</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: Julian</cite>There seems to be confusion within Excel itself about EVT</blockquote>So it seems. The latter part of this article is quite good http://www.forevergreen.org.uk/articles/articlesthebreat.html<br />but it's also puzzling, which is strange considering its author: "At Architype we have built more than 100 houses and other buildings using breathing construction"<br /><br />"the materials in the wall are carefully specified, so that sufficient vapour resistance is provided on the inside of the wall to prevent any risk of interstitial condensation, whilst the materials in the middle and outside of the wall are of a low enough vapour resistance to allow natural moisture migration. The general rule is that the vapour resistance of the inside layer should be at least five times that of the outside, although calculations to BS5250 indicate that a 2:1 ratio works."<br /><br />but then:<br /><br />"The most typical breathing wall arrangement an internal lining such as Gyproc Duplex (a plasterboard with a high vapour resistance), â€œWarmcelâ€ insulation between studs, and bitumen softboard sheathing on the outside"<br /><br />That's a hell of a lot more than 5:1 in fact it amounts to a standard wall with inboard plastic VCL (vapour control layer).<br /><br />"In addition, the hygroscopic properties of Warmcel enable it to absorb surplus moisture at times of high internal humidity and to release it when conditions allow, effectively giving a â€œsecurityâ€ reservoir."<br /><br />Not with a VCL in between!<br /><br />Later on, a 'breathing' building using Gyprox duplex board is contrasted with a normal housebuilder's one using 'plastic vapour barrier plasterboard'. It's the same thing!]]>
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		<title>roof ventilation and insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3834&amp;Focus=51627#Comment_51627</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Apr 2009 21:27:37 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>fostertom</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: Mike George</cite>just because an insulation is 'breathing' it doesn't mean you cannot restrict the flow of vapour through it</blockquote>The whole point of breathing construction is to provide just enough vapour resistance but no more. That way it does actually 'breathe' water vapour in and out, and it leaves the interior in beneficial contact with the hygroscopic capabilities of the Warmcel (or sheepwool/hemp etc organic) insulation, which stabilises internal humidity levels, like a cob farmhouse, and apparently is good for air quality too - with minimised need for ventilation.]]>
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		<title>roof ventilation and insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3834&amp;Focus=51630#Comment_51630</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Apr 2009 21:33:34 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Mike George</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[That's if vou go in for all that hygroscopic spin - I dont, at least not for all buildings, though I agree it is often very important in terms of the conservation of historic building fabric]]>
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		<title>roof ventilation and insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3834&amp;Focus=51632#Comment_51632</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Apr 2009 21:35:18 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>fostertom</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[What don't you agree about it?]]>
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		<title>roof ventilation and insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3834&amp;Focus=51655#Comment_51655</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Apr 2009 00:37:13 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Mike George</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Its not that I disagree with 'breathing construction' its just that I do not think it necessary in most situations. I fail to see the advantage where there is any form of rain screen cladding. Where is the moisture that you are so worried about going to come form? If from the inside then it can be just as effectively dealt with by means of a simple VB bhind the plasterboard. This also makes for better airtightness in my view.]]>
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		<title>roof ventilation and insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3834&amp;Focus=51663#Comment_51663</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Apr 2009 09:32:38 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>fostertom</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[You were disagreeing about 'all that hygroscopic spin' - that's nothing to do with rainscreen or not, and nothing to do with the 5-to-1 resistance gradient that is supposed to be an alternative to strong internal vap check for interstitial condensation purposes. Hygroscopicity has little bearing on those, but is an additional feature that's available, which benefits internal humidity stability, general feeling of comfort, and it seems also internal air quality, though the boffins among us deny that the last can be possible. It feels very different, living in a cob farmhouse, than in a modern box, and the reasons why must lie somewhere in this area. The only crossover is that, in order for the interior to avail itself of any hygroscopic properties of the insulation, it must not be isolated from same by a strong VCL, and so necessitates the minimised-vapour-resistance approach of 'breathing wall' construction.]]>
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