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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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  1.  
    Totally confused by all of this, so many differing opinions.

    I just want the most efficient/uncomplicated mains pressure hot water system for my 3/4 bed home with a bathroom/shower and seperate shower for 3 occupants, inc heating within a reasonable budget - how difficult can it be?

    Tank needs to go in the loft (insulation is important )and work with my normal open vented c/h system which has a 32Kw condensing boiler. I'm not bothered about attaching any further heat inputs apart from perhaps a solar coil, but from what I can see so far, solar heating payback is rubbish, but i guess thats another story.
    Loft height is limited to 1500mm. I would rather do without a separate F & E tank if I could.

    I saw a technical website saying that you need at least 2 metres height for a thermal store in order to achieve stratification and yet they seem to be available at much shorter heights. Does this mean that shorter ones don't perform well? Also what volume do I need.

    I don't understand how it is that Thermal stores are meant to be simpler - unpressurised vessel etc etc. than Unvented systems and yet cost a lot more?

    There just seems to be so much disinformation, unless I'm asking the wrong questions. Water Systems posts seem very convincing in favour of thermal stores and are easy to understand, thanks. But I don't buy the exploding unvented tank scenario - I don't doubt they DO explode on occasion but aeroplanes crash and so do cars, that doesn't stop me flying or driving and I'm sure that in the UK we exceed any sensible safety requirements anyway.

    Thanks in advance for any help.
    • CommentAuthorDantenz
    • CommentTimeJun 30th 2009
     
    I would go twin coil unvented hot water cylinder, as you say keep it simple. The only problem I see though is the limited height if the cylinder must go in the roof space. Could you not site the cylinder elsewhere?
  2.  
    Unfortunately, loft is the only option but surely unvented is less of a problem where height is concerned because you dont need a Feed and Expansion tank sitting above the cylinder, the pressure vessel associated with an unvented tank can be placed anywhere, can't it?

    Also, why twin coil? I understand that I would need a coil for solar but surely direct heating from my gas condensing boiler is more efficient?
    • CommentAuthorbrig001
    • CommentTimeJul 1st 2009
     
    You can't directly heat an unvented cylinder, you have to keep the water in the boiler separate from the water you use. So if you have two heat sources you need two coils - not strictly true, but close enough.

    In a thermal store, the water in the store is heated by the boiler directly and a coil is used to heat the water that you use. This is where it gets expensive because that coil must heat up the water you use instantly and therefore needs a lot of surface area.

    When you are comparing prices, are you comparing the installed price or just the tank? I don't know, but would have thought an unvented cylinder would be cheaper but with more complex controls and a thermal store would be more expensive but with simpler controls - thought it might balance out.

    HTH, Bri.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeJul 1st 2009
     
    If you have a gas boiler and no plans for solar then I don't see much advantage in a store over a conventional hot water only cylinder. Gas boilers can modulate down (unlike oil boilers) without cycling so there is less advantage to be gained by going for a store.

    Perhaps take a look at prooducts like....

    http://www.gledhill.net/building-products/downloads/BoilerMate%20BP%204%20page%20leaflet.pdf

    although I don't know what the insulation is like.
  3.  
    squatter madras
    You should be able to fit an UV cylinder in a 1500 mm loft. The expansion vessel for the potable water side can be at the same height as the potable side is now going to be un-vented (assuming you go for an un-vented cylinder). The boiler coil is un-sealed because you have said you have a vented CH system. Therefore, you already have unsealed CH and vented DHW water. I try to stick to those terms to avoid confusing myself (Not difficult). Sealed/un-sealed for primary side and vented/un-vented for DHW potable side.
    Because your CH in un-sealed there must be a Feed & Expansion tank (smallish black plastic) that is connected to the CH circuit. This usually has to be at least 1m above the top of a radiator (i.e. primary flow), thus this would have to be 1m above the DHW cylinder coil (for an unsealed system). This would be true for both a vented or un-vented cylinder (as that term applies to the potable DHW water).
    If you want to do away with the CH F&E tank then the CH primary side becomes sealed (that’s rads + hot water heating coil). A sealed hot water heating coil could heat either a vented cylinder (i.e. fed by big 50 gal black plastic tank) or an un-vented cylinder (fed directly from incoming mains).

    First you need to confirm if you have sealed or unsealed CH and vented or un-vented DHW. If you say you have vented CH and are looking for an UV DHW cylinder I suspect you may have 1 small one and 1 big one.
    So how many and how big are any black plastic tanks and where are they?

    Cheers
    Mike up North
  4.  
    Thanks for the help guys.

    My CH is powered by a Baxi Barcelona (never mind!) 32kw condensing boiler using one pump and two motorised valves, in the loft I have a large cold water tank and a smaller tank (F&E?).

    Am I right in saying its a vented unsealed layout?

    I have no requirement for adding further heat sources except perhaps a solar coil.

    From what I've read, I am leaning towards a TS rather than UV because, I'd like to fit the system myself and not bother with annual checks if poss. Difficult to find a good plumber in these parts unfortunately.

    Cwatters, my exisitng indirect hot water cylinder is in a bedroom and I need to move it to the loft, so thats why I need a mains pressurised hot water system with minimum disruption to my exisitng DHW/CH layout.

    I appreciate that there are 'Rolls Royce' solutions and 'Ford Escort' solutions. In other words, I'm not going to die in a ditch because it takes 6 minutes to fill a bath rather than 3 minutes. But I would like two showers to operate at mains pressure simultaneously or one bath running whilst a shower is running.

    The Gledhill boilermate seems interesting and pretty affordable when compared to DPS Heatbank TS. Bri, you say that TS have direct heating from the boiler but the Gledhill Boilermate TS has indirect? Why is this when surely direct is more efficient? Would I need to buy all the optional extras, we live in a softwater area and hard water is not an issue...not ever.

    Ta
    • CommentAuthorbrig001
    • CommentTimeJul 1st 2009
     
    The Gledhill boilermate has a coil for the boiler which means it can operate with the boiler either open vented or sealed. See the pictures halfway down: http://www.gledhill.net/building-products/bp-index.htm
    Our TS (old Albion) only has a coil for the DHW, the boiler and rads are connected directly. This is more efficient (slightly), but means that you need gallons of inhibitor and flushing chemicals etc. as the whole store contents are circulated.

    You would need to connect as per the left hand diagram as your system is vented.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeJul 1st 2009 edited
     
    Posted By: squattermadrasBut I would like two showers to operate at mains pressure simultaneously or one bath running whilst a shower is running.


    That can be quite a challenge depending on the type of shower. You need to check that the mains pressure AND flow rate are adequate where they come into the house. It's no good just checking the static pressure. The static pressure is not effected by the diameter of pipes. You can have a long scaled up pipe and still have good static pressure - but a poor flow rate.

    Find a friend with a decent shower you like. Measure the flow rate in L/min using a bucket and stop watch. Multiply by two or three and check the mains in your house. The kitchen sink tap in many houses is direct on the mains. Sometimes there is also a garden tap outside the kitchen window that's also on the mains. Try measuring flow rate of both at at once and add together.

    You may also need to watch the layout of the pipes in the house. Some plumbers simply have no idea about this! Suppose you have a pipe that runs from the tank to the bath and then on to the shower. The shower may work fine but turning on the huge old fashioned bath tap can be like cutting a big hole in the pipe to the shower. The bath tap "robs" all the flow. You are likely to get much better results by running TWO pipes from the tank to the bathroom. The same argument applies if you have two showers and to the cold pipe. It's about balancing the pipe runs and outlets.

    With any system involving heat exchangers check the heat exchanger can also meet the flow rate required.
  5.  
    Gledhill say that I need to add 400mm to the cylinder height, 100mm for the base and 300mm for the F&E tank, Ive only got 1500mm so snookered yet again I fear!

    Any other ideas to fit in with the 1500mm height restriction (Victorian villa, one and a half storeys - combed ceilings)

    I suppose that both at mains pressure is a tall order. I should have said two useable showers simultaneously.
    You are absolutely right about pipe layout Cwatters, there are some 'plumbers' who are just 'tube solderers', the trick is trying to avoid them!

    Would you use two seperate 22mm bosses for hot feed to each shower?

    Bri, would you say that you'd prefer a coil rather than a direct boiler connection?

    I'll measure the flow rates as you suggested.
  6.  
    Found a company called Advance Appliances who manufacture Stainless steel combi thermal stores in a size that will fit my loft, the price seems very reasonable when compared to the likes of DPS Heatbanks. And they were extremely helpful and explained things in practical terms.

    I was told that the easiest configuration for installation into an existing gravity hot water/pumped heating circuit would be an indirect thermal store as opposed to a direct.

    I was surprised that they only come with a 5 year guarantee despite it being stainless steel as opposed to the more popular copper for a TS.

    What do you guys think, has anybody got any experience with this make, and am I getting too hung up on wanting a direct primary rather than indirect? It must be more efficient by some margin surely, also better recovery etc?
    They do supply the tank in either configuration. How much more complicated will it be to use the direct TS into my existing system?

    Ta
  7.  
    The indirect thermal store is an easy swap from an existing system because either a cylinder (vented or UV) and the thermal store all have a primary coil through which the primary heat flow is passed. Therefore, from a primary perspective it’s a straight swap.
    This would also be true for a sealed and unsealed system – all units would have of course to be below the height of the primary F& E tank.

    Cheers, Mike up North
  8.  
    As a DIYer, a straight swap sounds good to me!

    Mike, when you say that all units have to be below the Primary F & E tank, do I understand that I need to keep the existing 'small' tank F&E for the C/H and also have the 'Combi' F&E that comes with the thermal store. So in effect I have two F&E tanks but the 'small' C/H F&E needs to be higher than the Combi TS F&E, if so by how much?

    ta
  9.  
    Hi,If this is an indirect thermal store then the primary heating is by within a coil on the radiator circuit. This is therefore served by the F&E tank on the radiator / CH heating circuit.
    The thermal store contains a mass of water which basically doesnt go anywhere it just sits there, this needs a separate F&E tank which if a combo cylinder is sitting on the top of it. So this tank is higher wrt the store volume and the other F&E tank is higher wrt the rad/CH circuit. As the store water and heating coil circuits are separate the tanks can be at different places/heights – so long as they above their respective waters
    Your potable DHW (mains fed) passes through another coil within the top of the store mass of water to heat it up, this will have an expansion vessel (and relief valve etc) on it just as would any UV cylinder. This takes up the expansion in the pipes as the DHW water is heated.
    So for an indirect coil heated store there would be two separate F&E tanks
    Thus for a direct non coil heated store where the volume of water in the store is the same as that within the primary circuit there would be only one F&E tank but its positioning might be harder.
    Hence the suggestion that an indirect thermal store is almost a simple swap from a UV cyclinder wheer the primary connections are concerned - particualrly if a combo cyclinder is used as ther additional F&E tank is within the package.
    Beware - non themrla store domestic cylinders (for use in flats etc) also come with a tank fixed on the top and are also called combo cylinders, in this case the water in the top is a feed tank of potable cold water from the mains to supply the cyclinder. If you are talking so someone who is not familiar with a thermal store they might be confused.
    Cheers
    Mike up North
  10.  
    Thanks Mike, that expains things nicely, effectively two F&Es for indirect TS and one for Direct TS, you say positioning of this F&E might be harder but they come in a combi arrangement also, do you mean that the base of the attached F&E tank should be at least 500mm above the top of the highest radiator?

    Thank you very much for the warning!

    How much more hassle would a direct TS be to tie into my exisitng system, I think its called an 'S' plan? ( 2 two way motor valves , pump on c/h side, gravity DHW, room stat, cylinder stat.)

    Bri, if you had the choice again would you stick with Direct TS or opt for Indirect TS and may I ask the reasons? I don't really want to go Direct for efficiencys sake if the gain isn't great but the hassle is!


    BTW, I've had Scottish Water come around to test my mains pressure F.O.C. and its 4.2 Bar, so I guess I'll need a pressure reducer then!

    ta
  11.  
    Hi,
    You'll find all sorts of recommendations about the height (head) difference, for example on the DPS heat banks with a separate F&E tank they quote only 100mm from the top water level surface to the rad. Basically its top to top and this difference in head should be as much as you can manage.
    S plan just means that there is a route to the CH and a route to the DHW "coil" as per any normal heating system. There is a letter designation for every combination of valves and routes.
    For a simple swap out the indirect is closest to any other cylinder, with direct the store is in the flow to the heating circuits, whilst with indirect its on a branch with a diverter valve.
    Cheers
    Mike up North
    • CommentAuthorbrig001
    • CommentTimeJul 7th 2009
     
    Hi, direct seems simpler, so I would probably stick with that, but I only have experience of direct since it was in the house from new. Its hot water performance is good, gives a good head start to the radiators and was easy to add UFH. TBH though, it's probably the only heating and hot water system that I know a lot about.

    Bri.
  12.  
    Hey,
    Its only the direct version "they" are calling sludgebuckets over on talk SF, the indirect will be fine as a swap. The direct wont sludge up any way.
    Cheers
    Mike up North
    (going south for the hols)
  13.  
    Thanks very much Mike, although I'm grateful for the SF guys giving their opinions, I didn't find the info particularly helpful, I found their statements rather sweeping and damning!

    My CH system has been around forever and is on the old 8mm copper pipe (no manifold) and I use fernox , top up each year and its fine, so I don't understand why they refer to TS as 'sludgebuckets'. But equally Mike, how is it that UV cylinders have a warranty around 25 years but TS have only 5 years? Their appears to be an obvious conclusion to be drawn there (without being too sweeping!)

    Do TS systems sludge up in softwater or doesn't it make a practical difference as long as your inhibitor is topped up?

    Bri, thanks for the suggestion.

    Ta
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