Sat, 13 Jun 2026 00:05:39 +0100 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63651#Comment_63651 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63651#Comment_63651 Thu, 08 Oct 2009 18:08:50 +0100 julius
Anyone used Fermacell boards before?

I spoke to the rep and he said after installing and fixing with joint stick glue you don;t need to skim it but instead cover it with Fermacell "fine surface treatment". I've heard others don;t even bother doing that and just paint it with no visible joints at all.

What do we think? I'm finding it hard to believe the joints are invisible without skimming.

J]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63657#Comment_63657 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63657#Comment_63657 Thu, 08 Oct 2009 19:11:29 +0100 Julian
it is easy to make invisible joints but your studwork and fixing of Fermacell needs to be spot on. It's 6 of one and half a dozen of the other 'cause the savings you make (time/material) if you don't skim it is pretty much cancelled out by the extra paint (no scientific evidence of this...) and work of painting the absorbent surface. The skimmed surface is much better for painting. You can get an immaculate surface if you skim or a good enough one if you don't.

Are you screwing or nailing? If you're nailing a gun is best and means less filling. If screwing most cordless collated screwdrivers aren't up to it - mains is better.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63662#Comment_63662 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63662#Comment_63662 Thu, 08 Oct 2009 20:24:57 +0100 jamesingram The finish is slightly textured if you paint direct , joints are glued , sometimes requiring a slight fill
which can then show up flat unless you can roll it out, adding a little texture as you lay off the paint.
fixing with staples approx 15/40mm and a stapler (air or cordless) the way to go , much less to fill then
Harder to cut than plasterboard and heavier , especially the 2.7/1.2 boards
I like it , suits a timber frame build]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63663#Comment_63663 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63663#Comment_63663 Thu, 08 Oct 2009 20:34:25 +0100 Julian https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63665#Comment_63665 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63665#Comment_63665 Thu, 08 Oct 2009 20:39:00 +0100 Paul_B
HTH

Paul]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63692#Comment_63692 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63692#Comment_63692 Fri, 09 Oct 2009 02:23:54 +0100 owlman How's the boiler Julian?

Mike]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63699#Comment_63699 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63699#Comment_63699 Fri, 09 Oct 2009 09:49:01 +0100 Johan
I always screw and get the plasterer to give them a skim if the wall is to be painted. It just gives that little extra with a smooth finish. They are a bit tricky to skim though as they suck the water out the plaster increadibly quickly compared to normal plasterboard. The plasterer I use now mix the PVA 2:1 instead of 5:1 to give himself a little bit more time to work!

If wallpapering don't bother with the skim.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63703#Comment_63703 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63703#Comment_63703 Fri, 09 Oct 2009 10:06:01 +0100 James Norton
J]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63704#Comment_63704 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63704#Comment_63704 Fri, 09 Oct 2009 10:14:18 +0100 julius
The only reason i would be using them is to eliminate the need for skimming. My studwork is all at 400mm centres and I don't need extra srength etc.

I'm getting the feel that for these reasons alone the bigger price with Fermacell isn't worth it.

Why do people say it's good for timber frame. Structural and rigidity purposes? I don't think you can't get it with foil backing so I assume it can't be for vapour control etc.

And why aren't 4 tapered edge boards more comon in the UK like they are in Europe or US? Why are we still wet plastering everything I wonder??]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63705#Comment_63705 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63705#Comment_63705 Fri, 09 Oct 2009 10:17:01 +0100 jamesingram http://www.greenspec.co.uk/html/product-pages/fermacell.php
some info here ,
to me the benifit is it gives a good strong wall finish without plastering or skimming , so is the superior product for dry lining.
I believe its enviromental impact is lower than standard PB.

Wet plastering good for airtightness on a block construction]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63706#Comment_63706 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63706#Comment_63706 Fri, 09 Oct 2009 10:27:36 +0100 julius
Wet plastering is good in the above application but for any drylining fixed onto timber or metal studs surely 4 tapered edge boards are the way forward... Tape and joint a house in a couple of days... Less material...Still airtight cos all corners and joints are filled...

Are we stuck in the past with regard to this one??]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63709#Comment_63709 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63709#Comment_63709 Fri, 09 Oct 2009 10:48:10 +0100 jamesingram Went back to a place I did 2 year ago with firmacell and you wouldn't know the difference from a skimmed job except theres no joint cracking other than at the ceiling/wall junction were I used caulk
the glues like that gorilla glue , but in a gun tube like caulk, its polyurethane (not nice)


haven't looked at that how to link above , probably worth a look
I agree with the tapered-edge but unskimmed PBs weak and prone to damage unlike fermacell ,
Surpised they dont do TP fermacell , though you can do it yourself with a surf form (hard work ) or a electric planer]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63711#Comment_63711 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63711#Comment_63711 Fri, 09 Oct 2009 10:50:16 +0100 Paul_B
One huge benefit is the boards can be directly screwed and are rated at 25KG. If you use toggle fixings this increases to 50KG

Paul]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63719#Comment_63719 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63719#Comment_63719 Fri, 09 Oct 2009 11:14:03 +0100 julius
The fixing issue is a plus but not crucial for me. I've got studs and nogs everywhere I need to fix something at present.

What do we pay per sheet on this stuff?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63720#Comment_63720 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63720#Comment_63720 Fri, 09 Oct 2009 11:32:33 +0100 julius https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63737#Comment_63737 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63737#Comment_63737 Fri, 09 Oct 2009 13:47:36 +0100 Paul_B https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63751#Comment_63751 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63751#Comment_63751 Fri, 09 Oct 2009 15:16:33 +0100 Julian Hi Mike I'll email you.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63753#Comment_63753 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63753#Comment_63753 Fri, 09 Oct 2009 15:37:20 +0100 julius
I'm going to spend a day next week with my proper builder mate and do some skimming to see how I get on. I've already got a collated screw gun and tools so it would be daft not to give it a whirl and see. I've done a fair bit of taping and rendering before so maybe it'll be feasible...

Funnily enough via Encon or Minsters in truro I did manage to get a quote for a pallet of special order Synia board from Lafarge which is tapered on 4 edges but they screwed around with the order so much I told them to stick it. Maybe this was rash. Time will tell.

Thanks all for your comments, J.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63758#Comment_63758 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63758#Comment_63758 Fri, 09 Oct 2009 16:07:59 +0100 Terry Cant remember the price, but think it was around £13 per 8x4 sheet of 12,5mm, but we bought a fair amount.
Very heavy to handle and if you are not careful, they can snap when moving around. Not sure if relevant, but this seemed to only happen when things were a bit humid after a lot of rain when the boards were stored under cover but exposed to the outside air?? If I did it again I might opt for the 'one man' boards 1.0m x 1.5 me thinks. Obviously effects stud spacing though.
Scoring hasnt worked well for us, but maybe due to our amateur status. We are using either a hand saw or a jig saw
I was told by a rep a few years ago that the tapered edge was introduced for the UK market because the average UK plasterer or builder demanded it. I was under the impression that on the continent they dont use tapered edge.
We are planning on painting directly on the boards. As mentioned above, the joints should be dabbed over with a slurry of the joint filler using a sponge. Will let you know how it goes when we get to that stage.
Dont seem to recall seeing any mention in the instructions about nailing fermacell, only screwing and stapling. We have used screws and you do have to be careful with the studs as, if screwing too close to the edge and being a bit heavy handed with the cordless, you can crack the edge away. Would have thought a nail gun or hammer might give problems regarding this around the perimeter. No problems with cordless screwdrivers, even have to turn the torque down a bit.

Benefits are that you have a much more solid wall that you can fix things to -seem to recall 35kg on a single 5mm screw as long as you have fixed the board as recommended. Studs can be at 600 centers and no noggins required.
Removes the need for wet plastering
They do absorb and release moisture in the air so can moderate conditions a bit - depending on what you paint it with of course.
Easy to make curves. 4m radius when dry or if you need tighter, lay them over a former and cover with damp hessian and let it settle over night
The sales bumf goes on about other pros, but cant remember them as the ones above are what we liked.

HTH]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63765#Comment_63765 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63765#Comment_63765 Fri, 09 Oct 2009 17:11:34 +0100 Paul_B http://www.xella-group.com/downloads/gbr/broschures/HandyGuide_s1104.pdf for example it discusses scoring and the use of an FST applicator rather than a normal plastering trowel for the FST. The approach is very different to PB.

Other useful docs are listed at: http://www.xella-group.com/html/gbr/en/technical-downloads.php?area_code=3

Or watch the video that I posted: http://www.howcast.com/videos/115309-Fermacell-Drywall-Partition-Pt-2]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63767#Comment_63767 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63767#Comment_63767 Fri, 09 Oct 2009 20:22:09 +0100 Rex
My builder is using some PB in areas that are hard to reach and frankly, I cannot see the point of PB. there are so many fractures on the corners and edges (too enthusiastic with the cordless screwdriver?) that the amount of repair work seems to invalidate the money saved buy using it. So with the exception of the ceiling and some other high areas, it will be Fermacell all the way.

This question is not intended as a hi-jack! Our house has some vaulted ceilings and hence high walls. In an effort to save a bit of cash, I am planning to use PB on the highest parts of the internal walls, where one would not hang a picture nor will be able to reach without a ladder.

But I am slightly apprehensive about the 'joint' between PB and Fermacell. Anyone have knowledge of problems in this area?

Rex]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63768#Comment_63768 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=63768#Comment_63768 Fri, 09 Oct 2009 20:54:40 +0100 Julian Have had PB/Fermacell and Sasmox interconnections - never had a problem. Plaster will seal the join effectively. Just make sure your studs/ceiling joists etc are well fixed and accurate.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=64454#Comment_64454 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=64454#Comment_64454 Mon, 19 Oct 2009 18:44:05 +0100 finny Some of us get a kick out of doing a good job from studwork to finish, doesn't take any longer and the end result is better quality allround.
Sounds a bit righteous I'm sure.
I try to spec fermacell wherever I can and at home I always use it and use a 14.4 screwgun after predrilling. takes about 5 mins more per sheet..
Rural mid wales price about 16 quid per sheet]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=189807#Comment_189807 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=189807#Comment_189807 Fri, 22 Nov 2013 14:37:39 +0000 hitormiss
I've done some drylining before and you can get a OK finish with a lot of effort, but it isn't as polished as a skimmed plaster finish IMO.

Ceilings always show imperfections without a skim and Fermacell will surely look like a dry lined finish with joint lines etc.

Quite like the idea of 9mm OSB under plasterboard to make fixing viable when decorated if Fermacell not worth pursuing.

Any ideas, as Fermacell still seems a 'Bleeding edge' choice.

I have a lot of walls and ceilings to do...]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=189809#Comment_189809 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=189809#Comment_189809 Fri, 22 Nov 2013 15:15:48 +0000 owlman https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=189815#Comment_189815 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=189815#Comment_189815 Fri, 22 Nov 2013 16:14:35 +0000 SteamyTea https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=189834#Comment_189834 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=189834#Comment_189834 Fri, 22 Nov 2013 18:07:32 +0000 beelbeebub
Use:
- Fermacell boards, ideally cut with a guided circular saw for a nice "square" finish.
- the "Jointstick" to fully glue all edges, allow to "squish" out, wait 8hrs and it just pings off with a scraper. Try too early and it smears, to late and it's to hard (still doable but harder work).
- Once the "Jointstick" has been scrapped away, fill any screw holes etc. with the filler (powdered mix). Wait about an hour for it to go off, then sand down with a lock and sand paper (or an orbital, but it's dusty!)
- Finally, use the fine surface filler. it's premixed in tubs and has a texture like Philadelphia cheese. You can "cut" it with a little water to make it slightly thinner, then smear it on with a plaster's steel float. Smear each stroke on, then scrape it almost all off again. You should be able to see through the filler! Once that's dry (about an hour), the lightest touch of very fine wet and dry can remove any tool marks (again dusty!) and you are ready to paint.

The above seems like a faff but it's just 4 stages. A 2 man DIY team could board out a wall in the morning, go for lunch, scrape the glue off in the afternoon, fill and fine filer it then get the first coat of paint on before the end of the day.

Where Fermacell wins out is because you can DIY finish it, you can work in stages and not have to keep getting plasterers back.

Right now, I'm finishing off my bathroom, I have some partition studs, about 2m2 with some alcoves and other fiddly bits. Getting a plasterer in would be a pain. WIth the FC I can work at my own pace and finish the walls when suits me.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=189843#Comment_189843 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=189843#Comment_189843 Fri, 22 Nov 2013 21:08:21 +0000 Nick Parsons https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=189896#Comment_189896 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=189896#Comment_189896 Sat, 23 Nov 2013 12:45:03 +0000 hitormiss
beelbeebub do you use one man boards or full 8x4 sheets? 12.5mm on ceilings or 10mm?

400mm centres on walls & ceilings for full boards?

Ceiling wise are you happy with the results with Fermacell fine surface filler.

What is your preferred ceiling to wall detail?

Thanks in advance.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=189923#Comment_189923 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4655&Focus=189923#Comment_189923 Sat, 23 Nov 2013 16:28:23 +0000 davidfreeborough
David]]>