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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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    • CommentAuthorBeau
    • CommentTimeFeb 8th 2012
     
    "Any thoughts? Does this have implications for fire regs etc?"
    My BCO had no problems with this system. I used a jigsaw for the sockets holes, it was a piece of cake.
  1.  
    Posted By: BeauI fitted 9mm OSB behind our plasterboard walls it cost £8 a sheet and all kitchen cupboards are very secure.


    Oooh... where do you get 9mm OSB for as little as £8?!?
    • CommentAuthorBeau
    • CommentTimeFeb 8th 2012 edited
     
    It was a few years back but I got them at a small independent builders merchant.

    I should add that this was under 2002 regs so fire rules my have changed. Also with 9mm OSB you do get patches that are less dense, this is not a problem with kitchen cupboards as you can put extra fixings in but could be an issue with something like a curtain pole support that only has one option for fixing.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeFeb 8th 2012
     
    Ah Beau, sounds like the cabinetmakers, ( if like me, often bitter), voice of experience, we must have gone to the same school. OSB would work fine Jack, I just somehow always use ply, I don't know why I just prefer it and I know it's more expensive, although in the overall scheme of a job it's perhaps minimal. As an aside, some years ago I stopped using chipboard flooring preferring to use Scandinavian softwood ply flooring instead, especially in wet rooms where I think chipboard should be banned.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeFeb 8th 2012
     
    Jack making up your own laminated boards is OK on principle but the choice of adhesive is critical and with the best will in the world thick viscous Gripfill will leave voids. You wont get the pressure required without a press. If you go down that route you may be better off with an industrial grade spray contact type adhesive, I do a bit of research if I were you.
  2.  
    Posted By: owlmanJack making up your own laminated boards is OK on principle but the choice of adhesive is critical and with the best will in the world thick viscous Gripfill will leave voids. You wont get the pressure required without a press. If you go down that route you may be better off with an industrial grade spray contact type adhesive, I do a bit of research if I were you.


    Ah yes, sorry, I should've explained... the only reason I'm planning to glue the insulation + OSB + plasterboard is to make my life easier when I'm cutting and installing the materials (I'll be doing all the work on my own). Once installed on the wall, I'm expecting the frame fixings to take all the load. In other words, I'm working on the assumption that it shouldn't matter if the glue completely fails one day after installation because the frame fixings will be taking 100% of the load.

    Having said that, I will take care to form a continuous ribbon of glue around each board to limit the flow of water vapour. And, to help to compress the boards while the glue dries, I will put a board of OSB over the "sandwich" covered with sand bags. I know this is far from perfect but I don't need the glue to take much responsibility.

    By the way, I just phoned our local building control office and they said there shouldn't be any problems from a fire regs perspective because the internal wall finish will be plasterboard.

    Thanks loads for all the help and ideas
  3.  
    Actually, I've just done some research and contact adhesives do look like an attractive solution. I'm thinking of using Evo-Stik 528 Industrial Contact Adhesive:

    http://www.screwfix.com/p/evo-stik-528-industrial-contact-adhesive-2-5ltr/42076#

    It gets a bad review on ScrewFix but that was from someone trying to use it to stick insulation to concrete, which sounds like what dry wall adhesive is meant for, not contact adhesive.
  4.  
    OK... now I'm thinking of using 12.5mm fermacell instead of 11mm OSB + 9.5mm plasterboard! Very similar price, a little less work and similar performance (although I assume that 12.5mm fermacell isn't *quite* as strong as 11mm OSB... I'm not planning on hanging anything seriously heavy on the walls... just book shelves and that sort of thing)
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeFeb 8th 2012
     
    this is the type of stuff I had in mind Jack, there are others. Many are available in cans.
    http://www.premierbond.co.uk/
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeFeb 8th 2012 edited
     
    Fermacell is fine Jack, though a bit heavy. If you're doing any corners, esp. external get a couple of tubes of their board joint adhesive and don't use too much. If you get too much of the stuff oozing out of the joint it is very hard to sand once set, see my earlier post. The fermacell board finish is in ready mixed tubs and isn't cheap but when you apply it, if you're doing your own plastering it really is a put it on and scrape it off type procedure, you're only just filling the grain. You can then fine sand and emulsion.
    • CommentAuthorathomson
    • CommentTimeNov 17th 2015
     
    ....if I may revive this thread?

    I want to hang some curtain poles, for substantial curtains.

    As part of a whole-house IWI, I now have 60mm of Pavadentro wood fibre on the walls and lime plaster. I don't fancy hacking this off to install battens in the insulation itself and re-plastering/re-decorating.

    Is this the best way to install curtain rails:
    a) fix them to the ceiling joists, if possible, but if not...
    b) put a timber surface mounted batten up to receive fixing screws, with the batten itself fixed through the insulation/plaster into the masonry wall behind? Is there a thermally broken hammer fixing for this specific job, by any chance?
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeNov 17th 2015
     
    I like the idea of suspending them from the ceiling.
    • CommentAuthorPaul_B
    • CommentTimeNov 17th 2015
     
    If it were Fermacell you could just use screws as the load capacity is 30Kg, using toggle fastenings would increase load capacity to 50Kg should hold most curtains and one of the reasons I like Fermacell over plasterboard
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeNov 17th 2015
     
    Plasterboard can take quite some load too but I would use long screws and spacers.
    • CommentAuthorjfb
    • CommentTimeNov 17th 2015
     
    http://www.ecomerchant.co.uk/walls/insulation/insulation-fixings/thermax-8-and-11.html
    they have a 160mm version that might be long enough - around £3 each though
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