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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorAlan2
    • CommentTimeJul 17th 2007
    First time i have discussed anything on the forum, but i must say what a fantastic site that i think this is and i only wish i had found a year ago, but to the point. i have read a lot of past and present discussions on this matter and i was wondering whether any body will give me a straight answer, i have purchased a 100 year old end terraced house and for all it is big and got bags of character it is absolutely freezing. my first floor consists of concrete base and wood floor with a gap of about 2 feet, and all i want to know is whether it is worth me pulling all the floorboards up and putting some form of netting and insulation down or just to get some warmseal blown in i would really appreciate a straight. answer warmseal less work and mess? or netting and insulation? can i just say again what a grate site
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJul 17th 2007
    Yes do it -- probably quilted insulation on netting will be cheapest -- be sure to keep air flow under the floor AND make well and sure that there is no possible way for that air to get into your house.

    Next job after full draft proofing --- external insulation on the end wall ? (or build a house there to keep yours warm.)
    Yes, do it. No problem with a staight answer for your query. As tony says, be sure to keep the sub floor ventilated, while stopping the air underneath getting into the house.
    • CommentTimeJul 17th 2007
    two foot high void? You could form hatch, put on your miners helmet and get under the floor and wedge 100mm kingspan tightly between the joists,

    Like tony states, the main thing is to ensure that there is airflow to prevent your floor from rotting away. The warmseal would do what? fill the whole 2ft void cutting off any airflow, or lay on top of the concrete, but not preventing cold air flowing through airbricks and the floor.
    • CommentTimeJul 17th 2007
    I assume by warmseal you mean warmcell. You could use it in the gaps between the joists with a breather membrane fixed below to hold it in place.
    I would not fill the whole void with it as it would cost too much and it needs to be kept dry and I expect it will prone to moisture down there on the concrete floor.
    I should have said use quilted insulation. I would not use rigid boards or anything blown in like warmcell
    • CommentAuthorbiffvernon
    • CommentTimeJul 17th 2007
    Look at the diagrams at the bottom of this page:

    Yes, that's a nice looking quilt. I would use it if finances allow. But using a cheaper quilt with similar conductivity [such as mineral wool] will spread your budget so that you can put insulation in elsewhere as well.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJul 18th 2007
    Why is sheep's wool so very expensive compared to inorganic quilts?
    • CommentAuthorJohan
    • CommentTimeJul 18th 2007
    [quote]CommentAuthortony CommentTime1 hour ago
    Why is sheep's wool so very expensive compared to inorganic quilts? [/quote]

    Manufacturing volume...
    I helped a friend do this a couple of years ago now. It was no where near as difficult as we thought it would be. Don't forget to move any cables etc to under the insulation first and if you can move any pipes into it. Leave a void with good air flow underneath it. With the floor boards up, you can also check for wood worm and wet/dry rot at the same time. We ended up replacing some of his floor with oak and using the best of the rest to complete the rest of the floor (burning the wood wormed stuff). It makes a stunning difference though - no more breezy cold toes etc.
    • CommentAuthorAlan2
    • CommentTimeJul 18th 2007
    Thank you all so much for that i will start straight away, and i am very interested in insulatin the out side of the house but i would not know where to start i was going to fix 5omm of kingspan to the inside wall followed by plaster boad, as the gable end is my hall stairs and landing and i can not aford to lose much more space than that, but if doing the outside would be better, then would somebody please point me in the right direction, once again thanks for the straight answer.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJul 18th 2007
    Insulation can be fixed to the outside wall using special insulation fixings which have large heads these retain a fabric or wire mesh which can in turn be either lightweight or traditionally rendered. Some systems utilise wooden bearers too, the more insulation that you can fix the better and it is also possible to slate or tile hang or otherwise clad the surface.

    Not quite a straight answer but external insulation is the way to go.
    • CommentAuthorAlan2
    • CommentTimeJul 18th 2007
    thanks tony for your quick response this sounds like a very good idea the only problem i do not own the property next to my gable end how deep is the insulation and if it is not appropriate for my property would 50mm of kingspan actually do anything fixed to the internal wall once again cheers for the quick reply and all the advise.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJul 19th 2007
    It would do some insulating fixed inside but it would be much better to the whole wall outside -- have a chat with the other owners.
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