| Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition |
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These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment. PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book. |
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Posted By: Mike GeorgeI thought the counter battening had some effect on the way in which vapour migrates to the outside air? Also there shouldn't really be any significant volume of water to run off whether membrane pulled tight or not. I'd be interested in reading a BBA which details this if you have a link as like I said it is an assumption [probably wrong] on my partIf the membrane is pulled tight or fully supported then wind driven rain finding it's way through the tiles will not be able to run off under the tile battens. So they need to be lifted up 12mm with counter battens.
Posted By: fostertomDavid, what's the difference between your c) and your d)?c) is without sarking boards/insulation & d) is with sarking boards/insulation.
c) and d) [i] seem to support sinnerboy. I'm depressed!
b) forming a ventilated gap between top of insulation and underside of a breathable membrane,
Posted By: CWattersThis is a good point. However, counter battens achieve this without the risk of unwanted air movement below the sarking membrane, while allowing the insulation to protect the full depth of the rafter. So I would always use counter battens.b) forming a ventilated gap between top of insulation and underside of a breathable membraneIt's not just some BCO that insist on a gap. Some manufacturers of breathable membrane also specify a small unventilated gap. I believe there are two issues..
a) The first has already been mentioned - the need for drape so that rain can run down under tile battens without the need for counter battens.
Posted By: CWattersb) a possible issue with the membrane "wet clinging" to the insulation, forming some kind of chemical reaction or perhaps simply not drying as quickly as it should when wet.Most breathable sarking membranes are classed as "non-tenting". So liquid water will not pass through if in contact with another surface & there will be no surface tension type effects. Any breathable membrane which is classed as suitable for use with sarking boards/insulation will be non-tenting. There are some punctured-polyethylene based products which may be vulnerable to this, but I wouldn't use them & you've got to question how good they'd be at protecting the rafters they're in contact with from liquid water.
Posted By: sinnerboySidenote .This is a good point, but its not a reason to use old bitumen based felts. Breathable membranes are rated for wind loading &, if there's any concern about getting the drape right, the membrane can be pulled tight & counter battens fixed on top.
At a seminar presentation by roof slate supplier a couple of years back a speaker cautioned about the use of the lighter breather membranes ( which are more "flag-like" than the old bitumen based felts are /were ) when used below states
If used with battens only and IF allowed to overly sag between rafters - then in high winds suction forces can cause the light membrane sag to "belly up" . Then the slates are simultaneously subjected to suction forces over and positive forces under - the slates can be ripped off the roof. According to the speaker some failures did occur when breathing felts were first used .
Posted By: tonyNow for the hilarious bit!!! -- if you want to extend it to flat roofs what about walls!"!!!!I'm glad you mentioned walls!
Posted By: djhFor flat roofs don't forget that there is an alternative possible construction that avoids the whole question of ventilation gaps: an inverted roof. i.e. top-down - weather protection (gravel, greenery etc), insulation, waterproof membrane, rigid sheathing, structure, internal lining if desired.This is essentially the warm deck flat roof with the insulation & waterproof layers swapped. In others words, with the vapour control & waterproof layers combined. In both cases the structure & deck are on the warm side of the insulation. However, as wookey says, in the case of an inverted roof the insulation will be vulnerable to heat transfer by water movement.
Posted By: tonyAll that didn't answer the question about why walls dont need to ventilated did it.Timber framed walls have typically been built in the same way as warm roofs. The insulation has typically followed the line of the timber structure, the external sheathing board has been continuous & it has not been replaced by tiling battens.
Posted By: wookeyDavid: Putting all the insulation on the outside makes for a very fat roof construction and it seems a shame not to put any insulation in the 150-200mm provided by the roof timbers (typically taller than rafters in a pitched roof). The problem there is that we need vapour to be able to get out of this area and the ply/PUR/waterproof membrane has very high vapour resistance, and normally we want highest vapour resitance on the warm side, lowest on the cold side, so I can see why putting all the insulation on top of the ply is recommended. I'm working my way through BS5250 to get a proper understanding of this. It would be nice to have a construction without 200mm of uninsulated space in it - can we really not think of one that would be robust?A vapour control layer is normally placed on the inside because it's very thin & has almost no thermal resistance. So if it's was placed anywhere other than the inside it is likely to cause condensation. Non-vapour open insulation on the other hand has a temperature drop associated with it. So we have more freedom in terms of where we put it in the build-up, but this needs to be balanced against other factors.