We did first fix after installing IWI - involved channeling out for cable runs and boxes.
Though in the end we could probably have just fitted them on the surface as we put more render onto the boards than is necessary (did use a normal lime render rather than at the bagged/recommended stuff) and so our boxes ended up too far back.
I would say definitely put the socket boxes in after IWI but you could run cables behind the IWI. To be honest I don't think it was that much of a headache to cut out a bit of the IWI for electric runs. Just have a think what you are rendering with afterwards as to depth needed.

With woodfibre insulation, does it work to just cut a channel with a router? In which case I suppose it will be easier to cut the channel in the surface of the insulation after installation and also make the cables easier to reach for any future maintenance.

I don't think I'd want to bury the cables in the plaster because of the risk of cracking. Although we did do that in one place in the kitchen without any problem so far (gypsum plaster rather than lime in that case).

gb22- all materials have different insulative properties but rest assured your 700mm walls do have a u-value. Real world measures by Historic Scotland of rubble filled masonry walls have come in as low as 1.5. Ty Mawr ran calcs for me with an assumed value of 2 ish

gb22 Think your mad even contemplating putting in a concrete floor in an old building just to save a few pennies when your already aware of far better systems that will not result in moisture wicking up your walls.

I would also agree with Souter you will be amazed how insulative rubble filled DRY stone walls are dry being the operative word meaning the walls have to breath to expel moisture and condensation to keep the walls dry. From your comments I would suggest your walls are wet leading to your conclusion that the walls seem to have little insulation.

Posted By: renewablejohngb22 Think your mad even contemplating putting in a concrete floor in an old building just to save a few pennies when your already aware of far better systems that will not result in moisture wicking up your walls.

I would also agree with Souter you will be amazed how insulative rubble filled DRY stone walls are dry being the operative word meaning the walls have to breath to expel moisture and condensation to keep the walls dry. From your comments I would suggest your walls are wet leading to your conclusion that the walls seem to have little insulation.

(Hmnn, now the 'quote button works)

I totally agree with the above comment. Our house is sandstone with rubble in-fill walls. The property used to be a mill and was converted in the 90s, with a ground floor concrete slab over a damp proof membrane. The walls are damp and we have paint and plaster flaking off in some areas. The worst hit was the attached building that was poorly converted into a granny annexe. We gutted this building, digging out the concrete and replacing with limecrete (as mentioned earlier in the thread). It's once again a granny annex but without a hint of damp.

The main house still has its concrete floor and its on its third scraping and painting in the damp areas in the 5 years we have been here. As soon as I can afford to, I'll be replacing the concrete floor with limecrete. Its a dear do, but if you're already looking at pouring a slab, then it won't be that much more to use limecrete.

You may get away with using concrete, but why take the risk?

Anyone experienced in gyrogear's hybrid floor? Particularly with tiles over and underfloor wet heating? (presumably using decoupling membranes, to isolate cracking/ differential/ lateral movement)

Posted By: the souterAnyone experienced in gyrogear's hybrid floor

I read about it here...

http://www.limecrete.net/limecrete-case-studies/hybrid-limecrete-floor-with-ufh/

gg

Posted By: the souterFollowing on from Pile-o-Stone's buildup:
Ty Mawr's limecrete system uses a 40mm thick cork perimeter strip to insulate/ separate slab from wall. Was yours a 10mm thick bubble strip perchance? This was superceded by 25mm PIR; most recently 50mm PIR. Any thicker and we'll not get any fixings in through the stud sole plates!

I think the perimeter insulation was this stuff:

https://www.colglo.co.uk/product.php?product=UFCHF1500&gclid=CIjqk4LpxMsCFYTGGwodc2ENCQ

I remember thinking it wasn't very thick, but then the pipes don't go right to the edge of the floor anyway and so the heat at the edges wouldn't be huge anyway. The description mentions that it allows expansion in the slab, but I think i read somewhere that limecrete doesn't expand as much as concrete.