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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorSteve_e
    • CommentTimeAug 3rd 2010
     
    Hi -
    We have taken down a garden shed which has a lower brick wall (about two feet high) and would like to build it to a better specification than the original (we took the original down because it was no longer weather/rodent proof and some of the timber was rotting).

    The size of the brick foundation is 8ft by 16 foot. I have two questions at the moment which if anyone could offer any advice/suggestions with I'd be grateful:

    1 We'd quite like to make the roof from sweet chestnut shingles which we will make ourselves with the help of an experienced friend. Does anyone know how the ridge of such a roof is traditionally made?

    2 I''d quite like to make the width a bit wider than the 8ft brick boundary and was wondering about the feasibility of building the wooden sides out from where the bricks finish (so that, for example, shelving doesn't intrude into the 8ft space but is 'recessed' outwards from it - hope that makes sense!). Does anyone have any ideas for achieving this? At the moment we're considering either posts in concrete to take the weight of the wall and roof, or possibly beams angled in towards the footings of the brickwork. Just not sure if there are any other options we haven't thought of yet?

    Regards, Steve.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeAug 3rd 2010
     
    Traditionally shingles were laid right up to the ridge with the last couple of courses cut short. The ridge tile ( 4" to 5" wide shingles ) were alternatively lapped at right angles to its opposite number. Strictly speaking no ridge or hip flashing was used either over or under the shingles. Neither was sarking felt used. The last one I did however, a circular structure with an octagonal roof, I cheated and put flashing just over the hip rafters before laying the shingles and then overlapped as described which produces a clean, crisp unspoilt line. Modern practice often uses self adhesive flashband or if using cedar, some suppliers produce specially shaped machined ridge tiles, for a shed though I'd use the old method, or if you're really concerned have your local joinery shop mould you a long length of ridge closure out of the solid.
    Re: Building out from the wall why not cantilever the sides out , if its not much extra width you want. You could always cheat and support the overhang with some nicely shaped timber brackets bolted to the brickwork, ( if its strong enough ), all along the sides.

    Mike
  1.  
    Posted By: Steve_eI''d quite like to make the width a bit wider than the 8ft brick boundary and was wondering about the feasibility of building the wooden sides out from where the bricks finish
    Why not use the floor joists to cantilever out the structure beyond the brickwork? An extra foot either side should not be a problem. The wall studs can be fixed to the end of the floor joists & diagonal braces can be used to tie them back to the floor joists where they pass over the brickwork. If you want to avoid cutting floorboards around the braces & you only want the additional space for shelving then the additional structure can be boxed in. The downside is that you'll need deeper floor joists than are usual for sheds which in turn may mean a step at the door.

    David
    • CommentAuthorSteve_e
    • CommentTimeAug 21st 2010
     
    Hi both -
    Many apologies for not replying earlier! I was expecting an email notification if anyone replied, and didn't check back after returning from holiday. :shamed:

    Thanks Mike and David for your replies, and many thanks Mike for the shingle description which will be very useful. One thing we've decided (as it will take some time to make the sweet chestnut shingles) is to make an initial roof with board and felt, and to put the shingles on later over the top. Probably not the most environmentally friendly way to do it but I need to move all the contents of the old shed back in fairly soon...

    With regard to the extra space building out from the wall, the floor is solid David so we couldn't make use of floor joists. The approach we took in the end was to build an initial frame on the brickwork and support the weight of the roof with this - then to build an extra width frame on each side and 'hang' it from the roof overhang, also supporting it from the wood frame at the bottom. This seems to be quite strong enough at the moment but it will be quite easy to add extra support underneath if we think it needs it.

    I've added a photo to show how it looks (if I get the attachment thing right).
      DSC01433.JPG
    •  
      CommentAuthorbetterroof
    • CommentTimeAug 21st 2010
     
    it's certainly a handsome shed :bigsmile:
    • CommentAuthorSteve_e
    • CommentTimeAug 21st 2010
     
    Thanks - I'm very pleased with it so far! I'll be even more pleased when it has windows and a door...
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