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			<title>Green Building Forum - Installing a ground source heat pump</title>
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		<title>Installing a ground source heat pump</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6164&amp;Focus=89038#Comment_89038</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 12 Sep 2010 18:33:39 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>topher</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Fridihem,<br /><br />You are right, setting up and commissioning is included in the price.  Before my last payment in December there will be a final visit to check everything is working correctly.  <br /><br />I am the cause of the problem.  I like to know what each parameter means and what is the best value for it to be set to.  As I said, Dominique has not installed a Nibe system before, so we are learning together.  I am very happy with this situation, but of course if Dominique had been experienced with Nibe, that would have been even better.  <br /><br />Your neighbour had an excellent experience, I think it is partly due to heat pump installation being a well understood and mature technology in Sweden.  It is not the same in France and the UK.  They are behind Sweden in heat pump installations especially the UK.]]>
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		<title>Installing a ground source heat pump</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6164&amp;Focus=90028#Comment_90028</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Sep 2010 20:10:44 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>topher</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Hi,<br /><br />There is more heat pump info on this link     http://www.francethisway.com/wp/pompe-a-chaleur-reduce-your-heating-bills-at-what-cost/2008/06/comment-page-1/#comment-18455<br /><br />You may be interested to have a browse, however it is specific to France.<br /><br />Regards,.............Topher.]]>
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		<title>Installing a ground source heat pump</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6164&amp;Focus=90248#Comment_90248</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 24 Sep 2010 21:02:14 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Canute</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[topher<br /><br />I'm guessing we live in roughly the same part of France and having installed ASHP + UFH in 2007 I've been following your thread with interest and look forward to your first-winter reports to see how the two systems compare in similar climates. Have you been able to tap into the various grants/tax breaks ?]]>
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		<title>Installing a ground source heat pump</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6164&amp;Focus=90269#Comment_90269</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 25 Sep 2010 09:32:11 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>topher</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Hi Canute,<br /><br />I am southern VendÃ©e.  Sadly I have decided to keep paying income tax to the UK, so I did not get the generous French rebate.<br /><br />It may be difficult for us to compare heating, as I often return to the UK in winter and turn the temperature down.  However I will be able to compare with my previous propane (v expensive) consumption.<br /><br />How do you find the ASHP when it is really cold outside?  I expect you have resistance heaters in the ASHP.<br /><br />Amicalement,.............Topher.]]>
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		<title>Installing a ground source heat pump</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6164&amp;Focus=90340#Comment_90340</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 26 Sep 2010 21:32:44 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Canute</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Hi topher<br /><br />I'm in S.E.Vienne so our winters have a little more bite and you get a bit more sun, otherwise comparable. <br /><br />Yes the resistance does kick in when it gets below -5 but the ASHP copes well, internal temps maintain the set 19 degrees (I set the thermostat to read a degree higher but don't tell Mrs. C) and the insulation is far from finished so I expect an improvement in overall performance come the end of the refurb when I'll also have a 10kw woodstove for back-up. The ASHP/UFH in cooling mode is a boon in summer but I'm looking at another way to cool - new thread in pipeline. <br /><br />I'm a fonctionnaire and my kids were born here - being in the system had its rewards re the rebates. <br /><br />Bonne continuation<br /><br />Canute]]>
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		<title>Installing a ground source heat pump</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6164&amp;Focus=90413#Comment_90413</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 27 Sep 2010 13:47:56 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>topher</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Canute,<br /><br />Very interesting.  I guess that you are British.  A Brit becoming a fonctionnaire, wow!  Very remarkable, well done.<br /><br />I wondered about cooling.  I think I could just pump the bore hole ground water at 14 degrees under the floors.  But one installer said that I could get condensation and as all the flooring has 'slippery when wet' floor tiles, I did not do it.  My underfloor heating was put in about 25 years ago, and there was no control over the pipe spacing.  If one pipe is well away from the rest, a condensation line might form on the floor surface.  It is something I could add myself later, I would need to have the same glycol concentration in the underfloor circuit as the bore holes.  You don't have the problem as you can just cool the floor circuit with the heat pump.<br /><br />Have you considered switching to TEMPO tariff.  Perhaps on the red days you could use the 10 kw wood-stove at full blast, and the thermal inertia from the previous day's under floor heat will help.  However EDF can give 5 red days in a row, Mon to Friday, that could be the show stopper.  I understand, but can not guarantee that EDF, while reluctant, can be forced to give you the tariff.  It is shown on their website  =  http://bleuciel.edf.com/abonnement-et-contrat/les-prix/les-prix-de-l-electricite/tarif-bleu-47798.html#acc52410.  I got 100 euros back in the year I switched to TEMPO.<br /><br />Amicalement,.............Topher.]]>
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		<title>Installing a ground source heat pump</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6164&amp;Focus=91162#Comment_91162</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 05 Oct 2010 21:36:53 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>topher</author>
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			<![CDATA[Pic 1.  March 2010.  This is the water diviner looking for sources.  He found two places.  The bore holes were drilled at the points he found.  He was accurate.  He cost 65 euros.]]>
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		<title>Installing a ground source heat pump</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 05 Oct 2010 21:42:14 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>topher</author>
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			<![CDATA[Pic 2.  May 2010.  The equipment arriving for the drilling.  A low loader truck with self-propelled boring machine and huge air compressor.  One large van with support equipment, plus two man team.]]>
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		<title>Installing a ground source heat pump</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 05 Oct 2010 21:45:06 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>topher</author>
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			<![CDATA[Pic 3.  May 2010.  The boring machine towing the air compressor to the boring site.]]>
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		<title>Installing a ground source heat pump</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 05 Oct 2010 21:48:15 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>topher</author>
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			<![CDATA[Pic 4.  May 2010.  Boring the second hole.  Huge amount of water and spoil propelled high into the air by the huge volume of air from the compressor.]]>
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		<title>Installing a ground source heat pump</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 05 Oct 2010 21:56:56 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>topher</author>
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			<![CDATA[Pic 5.  May 2010.  Lowering the pipes into the first borehole.  The pipes are filled with water to make them heaver.  They have a cast iron weight in a plastic torpedo shaped sheath to assist their descent into the 100 meter deep hole.  There are four pipes per bore hole.  Each pair has a U-shaped joint where they are attached to the weight.  This gives two closed loops per bore hole.]]>
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		<title>Installing a ground source heat pump</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 05 Oct 2010 22:04:19 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>topher</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Pic 6.  August 2010.  The heat pump starting its journey up stairs to the attic space where it is to be installed.  It was big and heavy - a difficult job needing four strong men.]]>
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		<title>Installing a ground source heat pump</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 05 Oct 2010 22:08:24 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>topher</author>
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			<![CDATA[Pic 7.  August 2010.  Pipes about to be placed in the trench.  The pipes are very stiff and difficult to bend.  The soil keeps them in place.]]>
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		<title>Installing a ground source heat pump</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 05 Oct 2010 22:17:37 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>topher</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Pic 8.  August 2010.  Filling each of the four pipe loops with pink glycol antifreeze mixture using a small electric pump.  The antifreeze has to be premixed with water in a container as it will not readily mix in the pipes.  As the pink mixture is pumped in, the water is forced out of the other pipe.  When it turns pink the loop is full of antifreeze.]]>
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		<title>Installing a ground source heat pump</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 05 Oct 2010 22:23:42 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>topher</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Pic 9. August 2010.  My wrecked garden.  The black pipe you can see is to add water to the bore hole if it becomes dry.  This helps the heat conduction from the ground to the circulating liquid in the pipes.  It does not mix of course.  Very cheap to do.  Seems a good insurance policy.  Later on it was placed neatly under a small inspection cover.]]>
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		<title>Installing a ground source heat pump</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 05 Oct 2010 22:33:39 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>topher</author>
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			<![CDATA[Pic 10.  August 2010.  The eight pipes from the two bore holes are joined up to the manifold.  The larger pipes - flow and return - go into the house and up to the attic space to the heat pump.  When the trenches were filled in, an inspection point was made so that the manifold can be checked if needed.  For example, it is possible to measure pipe temperatures to see if there are any circulation problems.]]>
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		<title>Installing a ground source heat pump</title>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 23 Oct 2010 18:02:26 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>topher</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[23 October 2010.  Report 12.<br />On Wednesday 20 October I installed a Kw/h meter and put the heat pump on.  It was the first time it had been used to heat the house.  It worked fine and brought the house up to 19 as set on the thermostat.  I spent some time trying to understand all the different parameters that could be adjusted.  I have a lot more to learn.   <br /><br />Everything was fine until Friday, when I noticed that the pressure in the primary (bore hole) circuit had dropped to about 0.2 bar.  Previously it had been solid at about 1.5 bar.  I opened the inspection cover where all the bore hole pipes are joined to a manifold.  If you look back, you will see the picture before the cover was constructed.  There were two small pools of red liquid  -  the manifold was leaking.  I told the installer and he said that it was probably caused by the low temperature on the return side.  When the heat pump is running the supply side is 9 to 11 degrees, and the return can be minus 2 degrees.  It makes me concerned about the leak security of the manifold.  In normal operation the temperature will vary from about +11 to - 2 degrees, and if this change is sufficient to provoke a leak, then is this going to be a continual problem?<br /><br />I have seen a special manifold designed for this application.  It has plastic pipe parts with electric resistance heaters which are used to melt the female socket to the inserted pipe.  It would seem to give a much more secure connection.  With 20:20 hindsight perhaps I should have insisted on one of these.  Any one got information to add?  It would be very interesting to hear about your experience.<br /><br />This Saturday morning the heat pump had shut down by itself.  The alarm help screen said that insufficient primary circulation was available to work the heat pump.  Last night I could hear slight noise of air in the system.  I await the arrival of Dominique on Monday to fix the problem.]]>
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		<title>Installing a ground source heat pump</title>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 25 Oct 2010 15:56:22 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>topher</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[25 October 2010.  Report 13.<br /><br />Yes it really is unlucky 13.  Dominique came today and re-pressurised the primary circuit.  It was hard to get the pressure above 1.3 bar.  The frequent drips coming from one of the manifolds changed to a small stream.  Apparently it is a defect in the brass casting of a 'T' fitting.  The frequent temperature changes, +11 to -2 degrees every time the heat pump cycles on and off, causes repeated expansion and contraction and has moved the defect in the casting enough to create a pin hole.  Repair coming soon.]]>
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		<title>Installing a ground source heat pump</title>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 25 Oct 2010 16:33:49 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>DamonHD</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Boo hisssssssss...<br /><br />What a nuisance.  Still, better now than mid-Jan I guess.<br /><br />Thanks for the warts-n-all reporting.  Very useful to know.<br /><br />Rgds<br /><br />Damon]]>
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		<title>Installing a ground source heat pump</title>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 25 Oct 2010 22:15:38 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>topher</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Damon,  <br /><br />Yes very unlucky, but a most unusual defect.  Just one of those things I guess.  Fortunately when the house was restored, quite a long time ago now, it was equipped with a 9 KW resistance element to heat the water for the underfloor.  In those days it was common for houses to be electrically heated - can you remember night storage heaters?  Too young I expect.  Well, it still works very well, but it is amazingly expensive to run  -  just for a few days I hope.<br /><br />Regards,........Topher.]]>
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		<title>Installing a ground source heat pump</title>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 25 Oct 2010 22:34:47 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>DamonHD</author>
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			<![CDATA[My mum's parents had night storage heaters.<br /><br />About 1/3rd of UK domestic electricity is still supplied on an Economy 7 tariff I think, though, so there must be plenty still out there...  Or maybe one very very big one?  B^&gt;<br /><br />Rgds<br /><br />Damon]]>
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		<title>Installing a ground source heat pump</title>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 25 Oct 2010 23:14:34 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>SteamyTea</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Lots of storage heaters down here, but then a fair bit of the county is not on the gas network.  Could be why we like having windfarms erected.  The latest one near Goonhilly can supposedly supply all the electrical needs for the Lizard.<br /><br />I have storage heaters, love-hate relationship with them.]]>
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		<title>Installing a ground source heat pump</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 26 Oct 2010 00:05:04 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>docmartin</author>
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			<![CDATA[Topher,<br />             why do you have a 3 phase supply? I assume they are not standard for homes in France? Do you have an occupation and/or hobby, e.g. welding, that uses 3 phase equipment?<br />       If I were to install 3 phase in a workshop/ studio for my daughter's architectural glass business, would this mean I would have a choice of more efficient heat pumps or just larger models?<br />    I think that  Nibe do heat recovery heat pumps which may be relevant to a workshop with kilns. More research needed!]]>
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		<title>Installing a ground source heat pump</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 26 Oct 2010 06:56:05 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>DamonHD</author>
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			<![CDATA[ST: Only about 1.5 of ~26 million households in the UK not on the gas grid IIRC.<br /><br />Rgds<br /><br />Damon]]>
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		<title>Installing a ground source heat pump</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 26 Oct 2010 09:19:02 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>topher</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[SteamyTea,  <br /><br />I should have thought first.  I have been to Goonhilly and can understand why you have night storage heaters.  My Mum had one, and had the same relationship with it as you do with yours.<br /><br /><br />Docmartin,    <br /><br />Most houses here are single phase.  I believe the following is the explanation for the three phase.  In 1985, when the house was restored, it was calculated (wrongly) that 9 Kw of heating was needed.  In France circulation of warm water underfloor has always been popular and fortunately it was installed.  Taking 9 Kw from a single phase supply is a large load, three phase is better able to supply such a demand.  As it turns out, 9 Kw is not enough.  When the external temperature is near zero, as it is now, the inside temperature falls from the value set by the thermostat.  The previous owner had a big workshop and some three phase equipment, I expect that he was keen on three phase for his workshop as well as his heating.  <br /><br />If your Daughter has kilns and might also have a heat pump, three phase might be the right choice.  I would get expert advice from more than one person.  Maybe the excess heat from the kilns can be stored, have a look at this   http://www.earth.org.uk/milk-tanker-thermal-store.html  from Damon's blog.  <br /><br />Most manufacturer's heat pumps are single phase up to about 12 Kw.  A 12 Kw heat pump will take about 3.5 Kw from the supply.  Beyond 12 Kw they are all 3 phase.  As far as Nibe is concerned, the efficiency measured as COP stays about the same for single phase and three phase.  Looking at the catalogue, the best COP (output @ 35 degrees) is 4.44 on a single phase machine of 8 Kw.  The worst is 4.12 on a 5 Kw single phase and 17 Kw 3 phase.<br /><br />Leak on manifold being repaired as I type.  Hooray.  Regards,..............Topher.]]>
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		<title>Installing a ground source heat pump</title>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 27 Oct 2010 09:00:32 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>topher</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[27 October 2010.  Report 14.<br /><br />The leak was caused by a brass adapter.  It has an axial crack about 2/3 of its length along the larger female threads .  If you look at Pic 10 above, the adapter is between the leftmost elbow and the " T " piece to the right of it.  I have it as a souvenir.  Dominique says it is a very rare occurrence, but he has seen it before.   <br /><br />The heat pump is back on and working fine.  Two items remain - <br />1.  I want to get a better understanding of all the parameters that can be adjusted and tweak the system to its ideal settings.<br />2.  I am concerned that the pump is short cycling.  I want to increase the hysteresis so that it runs for longer periods at less frequent intervals.]]>
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		<title>Installing a ground source heat pump</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6164&amp;Focus=93362#Comment_93362</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6164&amp;Focus=93362#Comment_93362</guid>
		<pubDate>Tue, 02 Nov 2010 09:14:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>topher</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[2 November 2010.  Report 15.<br /><br />The short cycling was 5 to 10 minutes running only.  This was reducing the life of the compressor so I turned it off.  I contacted Nibe UK who were brilliantly helpful.  <br /><br />Apparently I should have a return water temperature sensor about half way up the buffer cylinder.  The 200 litre buffer cylinder acts an additional load, if I just had the relatively small amount of water in the underfloor pipes, the heat pump would rapidly reach the set temperature, causing short cycling.<br /><br />As a temporary fix I strapped a temperature sensor on the return pipe going the heat pump.  It works fine and now the heat pump runs for about 30 minutes before shutting down.  I await Nibe UK to say if it can be left as a permanent solution, or if I need to fit a tube to the buffer cylinder to take the sensor.  <br /><br />When the pump has been running for some time, the water going into the under floor pipes is around 40 degrees.  I think this is too high.  My next task is to find out how to reduce this.]]>
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		<title>Installing a ground source heat pump</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6164&amp;Focus=93366#Comment_93366</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6164&amp;Focus=93366#Comment_93366</guid>
		<pubDate>Tue, 02 Nov 2010 09:50:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>orangemannot</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Hmmmm,<br />I dont "think" 40 degrees is too hot for underfloor, been running ours at these sorts of input temps ( & higher) this past 15 years.Probably 50/60 at times ( judged by hand only)<br /> Reason is I deliberataly installed an overthick floor screed so the floor is a giant storage heater into which I dump heat. <br /> I suppose you may be concerned about degregation? of the plastic underfloor pipes?<br />Cheers<br />M<br />PS<br />I would love 3 phase, blinking expensive over here though.]]>
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		<title>Installing a ground source heat pump</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6164&amp;Focus=93389#Comment_93389</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6164&amp;Focus=93389#Comment_93389</guid>
		<pubDate>Tue, 02 Nov 2010 13:09:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>topher</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Hi Orangemannot,<br /><br />You are right, I am being conservative with my old underfloor heating.  I don't want to give it too much temperature cycling.  The old plastic pipes are rated to 60 degrees, and I don't know how long they will last.<br /><br />The other and probably more important reason is that the heat pump has its highest efficiency or COP at 35 degrees.  At 60 degrees it falls to 2.71.  <br /><br />Your idea of having a bigger thermal mass with the thick screed sounds good, except that if the weather warms up, does the house feel too hot?  And vice versa, when a sudden cold snap arrives, can the system respond?<br /><br />The house came with three phase - I did not realise at the time the advantage I was getting<br /><br />Regards,..............Topher.]]>
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		<title>Installing a ground source heat pump</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6164&amp;Focus=93465#Comment_93465</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6164&amp;Focus=93465#Comment_93465</guid>
		<pubDate>Wed, 03 Nov 2010 11:29:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>orangemannot</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Oh Erm, I "designed" and installed the plumbing myself, Ok I bought an underfloor "kit" (sans pump) from the Wrisbro importer.No other suppliers at that time....for what I wanted. Got a mix of underfloor, radiators , underfloor & radiators, and fanfare .............in the living room,............. underfloor plus radiators plus a Morso stove, just to be sure.......... too be sure, to be very very sure.<br />But the underfloor is marginal in the living room because the loop is too long, but then the wood burning stove runs in this room basically 24/7 6 months of the year, and I dont think the radiators have been on in 15 years.<br />But hey it all works.there is a LOT of thermal mass designed into the construction of the house, which is nominally cubical in shape, to give  minimium external  wall surface for max internal volume. <br />PS<br />After 15 years i really really would need to wire up the various timers/controls/valves/thermostats though.<br />PPS<br />To heat 3700 sq ft of 1995 insulation standards house to a constant 18/20 deg centi we were burning 2250 litres of oil annually.............. plus the single wood burning stove in the living room.<br />Not bad i thought.<br />But now heating from a gasifing logwood burning boiler, in place of the oil input.<br />Cheers<br />Marcus<br />OOOOPs Sorry better answer your question.<br />If it is cold I put on a bigger fire, plus run the undefloor & radiators for longer and with the thermal mass the temp will not drop to below 16 deg ( and that only very exceptionally, & with me out working all day) before the extra heat input kicks in and corrects. And since we are mostly sitting in the living room with the Morso stove ......it can pick up prob a 5 deg rise  in a half hour ( not measured)<br />The adolescents (numbers vary) upstairs in the computer room never complain but then the amount of electrical energy & occassional alcohol  being consumed negates the need for much external heat.<br />Cheers]]>
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