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			<title>Green Building Forum - SIPs and Overheating</title>
			<lastBuildDate>Sun, 26 May 2013 04:46:03 +0100</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>SIPs and Overheating</title>
		<link>http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6633&amp;Focus=95857#Comment_95857</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 04 Dec 2010 17:53:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>jazgill</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Hi All<br /><br />I'm planning an energy efficient, airtight home using SIPs along with MVHR, triple glazed windows etc. <br />I'm worried about overheating issues arising in the summer months. Please can someone advise of the best methods to minimize this issue.<br />Any replies much appreciated.<br />regards<br />Jaz]]>
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		<title>SIPs and Overheating</title>
		<link>http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6633&amp;Focus=95859#Comment_95859</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 04 Dec 2010 17:57:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Nick Parsons</author>
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			<![CDATA[Internal thermal mass walls.]]>
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		<title>SIPs and Overheating</title>
		<link>http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6633&amp;Focus=95860#Comment_95860</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 04 Dec 2010 18:03:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>owlman</author>
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			<![CDATA[Trust your architect.]]>
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		<title>SIPs and Overheating</title>
		<link>http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6633&amp;Focus=95863#Comment_95863</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 04 Dec 2010 18:14:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>NiallMac</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[open a window]]>
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		<title>SIPs and Overheating</title>
		<link>http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6633&amp;Focus=95867#Comment_95867</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 04 Dec 2010 20:53:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Timber</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Summer shading.<br /><br />Some form of feature (louvres, planting, whatever) will help a lot with reducing solar gain in summer.<br /><br />If it were me, I would design in passive solar for winter and the shoulder months, with a nice overhang or feature to prevent solar gain in summer.  A dense concrete block internal spine wall that catches winter sun would also help to maximise winter absorbtion, and provide some control of internal temps in the summer.<br /><br />Having said that, there are many many people across the world who live in timber frame houses (similar in terms of thermal mass) who make it work. The rest of the world can't be wrong...... can they?<br /><br />Also, as an addition to the comment above about opening a window, think about through ventillation of windows, i.e. make sure that you can throw a few windows open on oposite sides of the house to get some decent cross ventillation in summer.]]>
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		<title>SIPs and Overheating</title>
		<link>http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6633&amp;Focus=95884#Comment_95884</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 05 Dec 2010 09:02:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>SteamyTea</author>
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			<![CDATA[Would the MVHR not cope with this.]]>
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		<title>SIPs and Overheating</title>
		<link>http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6633&amp;Focus=95886#Comment_95886</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 05 Dec 2010 09:26:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>tony</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[no<br /><br />you ca use night time cooling or sort the MHRV with a summer bypass<br /><br />physical shading is the best answer<br /><br />Some lightweight houses in more northerly locations than the UK regularly overheat in winter too]]>
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		<title>SIPs and Overheating</title>
		<link>http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6633&amp;Focus=96060#Comment_96060</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 07 Dec 2010 19:55:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Timber</author>
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			<![CDATA[Overheating in winter - I wouldn't complain too much about that, as long as summer shading can mitigate summer overheating.]]>
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		<title>SIPs and Overheating</title>
		<link>http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6633&amp;Focus=96062#Comment_96062</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 07 Dec 2010 20:01:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Timber</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[I have wondered, actually, on the thought of an internal spine wall, what about building in deliberate thermal bypass. I.e. build a twin leaf dense concrete wall and introduce deliberate and controlled air movement into the wall. <br /><br />During the winter the cavity would be blocked off with insulated closers and solar gain absorbed into the wall (perhaps allowing internal air into the void to promote convection on warm air). In the summer the bottom and top of the wall could be opened up to external air to promote night time cooling of the spine wall?!<br /><br />I think it would work, but be very dependant on actually controling the air movement within the wall cavity!<br /><br />Timber]]>
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		<title>SIPs and Overheating</title>
		<link>http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6633&amp;Focus=96071#Comment_96071</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 07 Dec 2010 21:37:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Viking House</author>
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			<![CDATA[Good one Timber, you'll have me awake early in the morning thinking about that!  Would you need fans to suck the cold night air into the cavity? Have you thought about the roof detail, would the wall have to protrude through the roof to get it water tight?]]>
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		<title>SIPs and Overheating</title>
		<link>http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6633&amp;Focus=96073#Comment_96073</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 07 Dec 2010 22:02:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>rhamdu</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: Timber</cite>build a twin leaf dense concrete wall and introduce deliberate and controlled air movement into the wall.<br /></blockquote><br /><br />Something similar is already being done - unintentionally <br />http://www.dailymail.co.uk/property/article-1336116/The-new-homes-fail-energy-tests.html?ito=feeds-newsxml<br /><br />(Thanks to @sebvandort of http://www.dailygreennews.co.uk/ for tweeting this, and @GeoffWilkinson for retweeting)]]>
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		<title>SIPs and Overheating</title>
		<link>http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6633&amp;Focus=96077#Comment_96077</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 07 Dec 2010 22:33:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>seascape</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Be careful with south facing glazing.  I was in a ground floor apartment in Antwerp a few years ago, normal brick build or similiar - not sips.   The ground floor had bedrooms and loo and the first floor was the sitting room and kitchen, which had  about 15m x 2m of south facing glazing -  across whole upper wall virtually, with no shading.  There was a heat wave for a few days- not particularly drastic, ok outside etc, but you could not be in that first floor in the afternoon - it was unbearable, fans did nothing.  The downstairs was fine, which had normal windows. I wonder what it would be like in winter - freezing at night I should think.]]>
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		<title>SIPs and Overheating</title>
		<link>http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6633&amp;Focus=96104#Comment_96104</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 08 Dec 2010 12:26:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>marktime</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Timber, the Winter/Summer dichotomy would be solved by the angle of the sun. Summer overhang shading and low mass walls means no heat build-up or problems from decrement delay. Winter sun coming at low angles is under the shade barrier and heats your spine wall. No need for the cavity. Simples.<br /><br /><img src="/newforum/extensions/Vanillacons/smilies/standard/bigsmile.gif" alt=":bigsmile:" title=":bigsmile:" />]]>
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		<title>SIPs and Overheating</title>
		<link>http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6633&amp;Focus=96106#Comment_96106</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 08 Dec 2010 12:38:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>SteamyTea</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[May help a bit<br /><br /><a href="http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=5643&page=3#Item_8" target="_self" rel="nofollow">http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=5643&page=3#Item_8</a>]]>
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		<title>SIPs and Overheating</title>
		<link>http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6633&amp;Focus=96130#Comment_96130</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 08 Dec 2010 16:16:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Timber</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Mark<br /><br />I am with you on that one and a simple spine wall is, well, simple.<br /><br />But you know people and the need to over-complicate things!!   Plus I think it is an interesting idea in turning a passive process into a more actively controlled process.<br /><br />Timber]]>
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		<title>SIPs and Overheating</title>
		<link>http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6633&amp;Focus=96148#Comment_96148</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 08 Dec 2010 20:02:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>DarylP</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[jazgill,<br /><br />Use lots of thermal mass (ie dense materials inside the insulated enevelope)<br />Shading the south-facing windows (brise soleil)<br />Cross ventilation (windows open on postive and negative pressure side of house)<br /><br />Cheers ... :-)]]>
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		<title>SIPs and Overheating</title>
		<link>http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6633&amp;Focus=96165#Comment_96165</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Dec 2010 06:58:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>marktime</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Timber: there's a good argument then for masonry internal walls in a timber frame with low mass external walls. The masonry would act to stabilise the internal temperatures. Looking at that particular scenario right now, the only need that would arise in the design is in the founds to support the differing mass of masonry against the original concept of dry-wall. Interesting line of thought. Note DarylP that I am talking about stabilisation, not particularly about gaining winter solar heat (which involves a glazing issue).<br /><br />Am I re-inventing the wheel?]]>
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		<title>SIPs and Overheating</title>
		<link>http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6633&amp;Focus=96167#Comment_96167</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Dec 2010 07:26:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>SteamyTea</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: marktime</cite>Am I re-inventing the wheel?</blockquote><br /><br />Yes.<br /><br />But each house is different and can only be modelled to within a couple of degrees either side of the optimum.  I have a low mass, timber framed house and have managed to make it reasonably stable (degree either side of 21C) except in the kitchen which is small and has the most window area and the door that is used the most.]]>
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		<title>SIPs and Overheating</title>
		<link>http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6633&amp;Focus=96171#Comment_96171</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Dec 2010 08:04:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>marktime</author>
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			<![CDATA[ST: the question is, is your control active or passive?]]>
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		<title>SIPs and Overheating</title>
		<link>http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6633&amp;Focus=96173#Comment_96173</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Dec 2010 08:10:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>SteamyTea</author>
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			<![CDATA[Passive except for occasional supplementary heating (fan heater in the kitchen at the moment, but then this is odd weather for down here).]]>
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		<title>SIPs and Overheating</title>
		<link>http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6633&amp;Focus=96188#Comment_96188</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Dec 2010 10:07:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>marktime</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Back to the drawing board. <img src="/newforum/extensions/Vanillacons/smilies/standard/bigsmile.gif" alt=":bigsmile:" title=":bigsmile:" /><br /><br />(Or this new-fangled AutoCad. <img src="/newforum/extensions/Vanillacons/smilies/standard/sad.gif" alt=":sad:" title=":sad:" />)]]>
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		<title>SIPs and Overheating</title>
		<link>http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6633&amp;Focus=96189#Comment_96189</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Dec 2010 10:08:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>dickster</author>
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			<![CDATA[shutters?]]>
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		<title>SIPs and Overheating</title>
		<link>http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6633&amp;Focus=96466#Comment_96466</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 12 Dec 2010 21:19:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>GreenPaddy</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Jazgill,<br /><br />taking on board the shading ideas above, pehaps you could design in some strcutural supports in the zones above the window openings, so that shading (brise soleil) could be applid later, once you have lived in the house, and experienced a summer. SIP's (as I understand them) won't have great "pullout" resistance unless additional structure is design-in.<br /><br />Since the shading detailing, does not always look that great on a dometic property (can look great on large office blocks etc), it could be a detatchable system, for example on the ground floor only if that was where most of the glazing were installed? What about a balcony (2 small balconies) over the glazed openings? I've just done that for my own "passive-style" house.<br /><br />GreenPaddy.]]>
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		<title>SIPs and Overheating</title>
		<link>http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6633&amp;Focus=96613#Comment_96613</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 14 Dec 2010 13:10:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>adwindrum</author>
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			<![CDATA[Instead of thermal mass walls, what about solid floors in the south facing rooms where the light hits from windows? Limited on floor covering though.]]>
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