Welcome to new Forum Visitors
Join the forum now and benefit from discussions with thousands of other green building fans and discounts on Green Building Press publications: Apply now.
Fundamentals: List of in house Winter Cooling Systems
I bank on the air movement to heat upstairs. In 5 years I have never had to have the heating on up there. One storage heater in the living room and a fan heater in the kitchen does it all. Front of house does get a lot of sun in the winter though. Depends on size and shape of house I guess.
may be we could vote them into worst first order soon?
Cavity walls Blob and dobbed walls Ventilated underfloor voids, Un-insulated ground floor concrete floor slabs Party walls Integral garages or porches Extractor fans, Trickle vents or First floor voids & Dormer bungalow first floor voids Letterboxes and/or Cat flaps Sliding sash windows, Crittal windows, Bay windows,Single glazed windows Open flues & combustion air bricks Soil and vent pipe casings and all badly-done service penetrations. Ventilated chimneys Thermal bypass in warm roof at gable & eaves roof-wall junctions, Gable walls Dormer windows Badly fitted floorboards and door frames Heated conservatories Lintels Loft hatch Opening windows every morning to get rid of the condensation Cold water cisterns - the loo one if not the CW tank - importing cold water which gets warmed up by the house interior before being flushed away warm. Drying clothes indoors, Drying logs indoors, defrosting foods, etc Radiators on external walls, Curtains that drape over your rads Balconies, cantilevers, etc hat bridge insulation Open plan and missing internal doors and/or overly high ceilings Overflow pipes
How about the very common , Leaving windows open for fresh air at night (or day)
One of my regular customers says she loves fresh air , windows always open a bit and thermostate set to 21+ C heating pumping 24/7 . I've tried explaining about relative thermal comfort and draughts several times to no avail.
Too late James, he said final update! Anyway your suggestion is mostly covered earlier on. How about we each vote our worst 3, with weighted votes of 3,2 and 1? The only question being whether we whisper our votes to avoid tactical voting! What do you say Tony?
Note - you have to answer ALL questions. Also it asks you to sign up at the end for some promo stuff but I just shut my browser so hopefully it saved my answers.
I'm confused too. Are we voting for the 'best' winter cooling system - the one that loses the most heat, causes the most cooling? In my case, I would have to give crittell windows top marks of 5 - even though I really want to give them D minus.
If you really hate it then give it a 1 If you think it is not that bad give it a 5 If you unsure somewhere in between.
When enough people have voted I can see the least popular, or the ones that people really hate, and put them up for another vote and so on until we find the one that is hated the most. You are not voting for the outright winner here, should have made that clearer at the start but I did spend all of 10 minutes on it. Take it we are not fans of PR. "We have the worst democracy in the world, apart from everyone else's" http://FreeOnlineSurveys.com/rendersurvey.asp?sid=jx2n1rk6ka4klol854814
It is the weighting, which I have not bothered to do as this is not my thread.
Anything in the first numeric column (other than the very first) is the least favourite, so taking 'Party Walls' no one thought they were that bad, whereas Cavity Walls and open flues/Combustion Bricks were considered really bad.
I was hoping for more responses as with only 8, nothing can really be worked out from it.
Maybe the way to do it is to start with 3 categories, Convection, Radiation and Conductance and work on them.
<blockquote><cite>Posted By: Viking House</cite>I tested the temperature of a few stoves in clients houses that weren't lighting, they showed temperatures of around 10-11 degrees in cold weather, so when the stove isn't lit these rooms tend to be the coldest in the house because the stove acts like a cold radiator. The stoves had valves where the flue and air inlet passed through the insulation layer. If you build a Passive House that only requires heating in Dec and Jan and you put in a stove you will need to light it from Nov-Feb. .</blockquote>
I was in a Passive House at 9 0'Clock one cold morning, the room with the sealed stove was 15 degrees while the rest of the house was 20 degrees, the stove was 8 degrees and acted as a cold radiator. VH posted 2012
Posted By: Viking House Are the baffels at roof level and are they able to stop convection currents rising and falling within in the chimney when the stove isn't lighting? i.e cold dense air dropping down the chimney onto the stove and light warm air rising up from the stove cooling it down.
It would be interesting to try and quantify this effect but I haven't got a clue how to go about it. Any suggestions?