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			<title>Green Building Forum - Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
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		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 14 Feb 2011 00:15:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>pmagowan</author>
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			<![CDATA[What about using a couple of sections of box steel, the same size as the down pitch baton but every second rafter.  My rafters are a foot apart, surely the counter-batons don't need to be secured to every one!  Maybe I should contact the different insulation companies to find one who is happy with the compression strength of their material.  Rockwool I think is quite good?<br /><br />I think I saw somewhere a sheet which was designed for loads.  The top of the EWI could be a structural type of insulation.<br /><br />? a run of Phenolic at the top of the EWI and bottom of ERI!<br /><br />Thanks<br />Paddy]]>
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		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 14 Feb 2011 21:37:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Viking House</author>
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			<![CDATA[You could use higher density EPS, read pages 13 and 14 of this document <a href="http://www.viking-house.ie/downloads/BS%20EN%2013163%20-%202001.pdf" target="_self" rel="nofollow">http://www.viking-house.ie/downloads/BS%20EN%2013163%20-%202001.pdf</a>]]>
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		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 14 Feb 2011 21:49:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>pmagowan</author>
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			<![CDATA[Thanks Viking, I'm sure that document means something to someone but all the numbers make my head hurt.  My current favorite may be mineral board as it seems to be able to take the strain.  I would have thought the loads would be lightish when spread over a large area.  All i need is reasonable sized batons to cantilever it.  How did you tackle the verges?  I was thinking a solid board of wood in place of the last baton of the row.  This would overhang and hold any decorative detailing.  It would also connect to the eaves and form a ring so the main force would be balanced. <br /><br />Thanks again, I will try and get my head around it, I promise.<br />Paddy<br /><br />PS do you know where you can buy all this stuff?]]>
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		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 14 Feb 2011 22:01:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>fostertom</author>
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			<![CDATA[I think you're underestimating the peak forces - snow load likely to be e.g. 0.72kN/m2 = 73 kg/m2 in <a href="http://www.kingspanpanels.com/Resource_Centre/Technical-Information/Structural-Performance/Basic-Snow-Loads.aspx" target="_self" rel="nofollow">http://www.kingspanpanels.com/Resource_Centre/Technical-Information/Structural-Performance/Basic-Snow-Loads.aspx</a> - try holding that up! - it far exceeds the dead weight of the materials.<br /><br />EPS and the accessory items obtainable from specialist suppliers the likes of Chris Hirst <a href="http://thinjoint.com/," target="_self" rel="nofollow">http://thinjoint.com/,</a> who also provides a bit of training and supervision in the package, so the warranties will apply.]]>
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		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 14 Feb 2011 22:50:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>pmagowan</author>
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			<![CDATA[Fostertom, I think the loads will be OK but I could be wrong.  The eaves would only project by about a foot.  Any snow on them would spread its weight between the roof surface and the face of the wall.  The wall would normally have no compression force on it so if the roof can take it I would expect the wall to be able to take it.  The only problem would be if the batons sheared off but I think that is unlikely.  There is a possibility you could use steel batons or I could get a local fabricator to make up a metal baton with a weight spreading plate on it of some kind.  There would be a baton every foot.  Each baton would have to support 1 square foot of overhang with the aid of the through-insulation fixings connecting the end of rafter board with the rafter-stub board.<br /><br />Does it sound that big a bodge?<br />The verge is tricky also<br />Paddy]]>
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		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 15 Feb 2011 08:41:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>davidfreeborough</author>
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			<![CDATA[If you're concerned about the loading, you can brace the end of downslope battens with timber "false rafter feet" connecting through the EWI to the "end of rafter board". With attention to detail, these can be made into a nice feature or used for fixing a soffit board.<br /><br />David]]>
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		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 15 Feb 2011 09:31:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>pmagowan</author>
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			<![CDATA[Yes, David, This is the plan.  I think Fostertom is worried that the loads would be too much even with this (me too).  Do you know of anywhere this has been done?  It would be a lot more reassureing to think it might be standard practice somewhere.<br /><br />Paddy]]>
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		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 15 Feb 2011 11:33:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>davidfreeborough</author>
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			<![CDATA[Take a look at Mike Whitfield's AECB conference presentation half way down the following page:<br /><br /><a href="http://www.aecb.net/conference2007.php" target="_self" rel="nofollow">http://www.aecb.net/conference2007.php</a><br /><br />He's not using EWI, but I'm sure you can re-use many of the same ideas.<br /><br />David]]>
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		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 15 Feb 2011 11:52:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>pmagowan</author>
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			<![CDATA[That is super cool, David!  Just the pictures I needed, thanks.  Pictures speak a thousand words and showing a builder this will explain everything.  The only difference with my idea is to have 200mm insulation in the sandwich and if I can confirm that it can take the loads then Bob's your Uncle!<br /><br />Thanks<br /><br />Paddy]]>
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		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 23 Feb 2011 08:01:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>jamesingram</author>
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			<![CDATA[.]]>
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		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 23 Feb 2011 19:37:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>jamesingram</author>
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			<![CDATA[thought I'd try a picture to create interest]]>
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		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 23 Feb 2011 19:48:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>jamesingram</author>
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			<![CDATA[Wa wondering on the length the stub rafter should go up the roof pitch , the less the better , I'm guessing for a 500m over hang you'd need 750mm-1000mm ( total 1250-1500mm )<br />Nogging between hit nd miss stub rafters to fix to main rafters , could you use 50/50 to reduce thermal bridging in 2 layer ERI or would a full 100/50 be better <br />how about nogging from below and fixing stub rafter through OSB into this <br /><br />Is the benefit worth the effort in reduced thermal bridging or would fixing stub rafters directly over main rafter be a structually sounder jobs <br /><br />cheers Jim]]>
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		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 23 Feb 2011 20:09:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>fostertom</author>
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			<![CDATA[Well worth it, essential - direct on rafter is a total bridge and many of them.<br /><br />The inboard 'nogs' can be a continuous runner nailed across the ends of the stubs.<br /><br />I'd drop the top of the blockwork so the main rafters just birdmouth slightly onto the wall plate and the tween-rafter insulation unites almost without interruption with the EWI - another major semi-bridge eliminated.<br /><br />The outboard nogs then need to be substantial, same ht as the stubs, bearing firmly on the main rafters' ends and cantilevering both ways to provide all the support for the stubs where they hang in 'mid air'!]]>
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		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 23 Feb 2011 20:18:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>jamesingram</author>
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			<![CDATA[Ok thanks , so the inboard nog , 50/50 along top of stubs could be Ok<br />Cant drop the blockwork , as 152/152 steel below plate for windows/doors at 2050mm from FFL<br />Pitch restricted due to other end needing to finish under first floor windows.<br /> "and cantilevering both ways to provide all the support for the stubs where they hang in 'mid air'! "<br />bit confused by this bit ? what the "both ways" bit ?<br />how about stub length , could I get away with less than 750mm inboard for 500m over hang?<br />thanks]]>
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		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 23 Feb 2011 22:11:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>jamesingram</author>
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			<![CDATA[I think I've got the " bearing firmly on the main rafters' and cantilevering both ways to provide all the support for the stubs where they hang in 'mid air'! "<br />This nog on rafter end is fulcrum point , and the outer stubs extension is exposed to uplift and downwards force,<br />hence the need to strengthen <br />so could inboard section of stubs be same length as outboard 500mm?<br /><br />Unfortunately due ot pitch/rafter foot cut in my situation wont this act as a bridge thro. the plate and up , some what defeating the object of the hit and miss idea.]]>
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		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 24 Feb 2011 08:42:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>pmagowan</author>
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			<![CDATA[I still wonder if a decent baton running over the top of all the insulation wouldn't be strong enough to support the eave especially if both stuck on and screwed through the EWI.  This would completely avoid thermal bridging.<br />Paddy]]>
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		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 24 Feb 2011 08:50:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>davidfreeborough</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: pmagowan</cite>I still wonder if a decent baton running over the top of all the insulation wouldn't be strong enough to support the eave especially if both stuck on and screwed through the EWI. This would completely avoid thermal bridging.</blockquote>I think this would be better thermally, but it would block the water drainage path unless you made the counter battens thicker still.<br /><br />David]]>
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		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 24 Feb 2011 09:24:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>fostertom</author>
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			<![CDATA[If custom made windows/doors, they needn't be nom 2000 high - drop the heads by 100, squeeze the pitch a bit flatter, push it a bit higher under the 1stFl cills. Must be all-window, no EWI'd wall, to need 152x152 steel! What a high-conductive bridge - how about a slim column to reduce span, subst a 100x150 timber lintol laid flat, needing no additional wall plate.]]>
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		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 24 Feb 2011 09:43:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>pmagowan</author>
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			<![CDATA[sorry I probably meant to say counter battens.  If you made the one you have in  the diagram a bit higher spec would it not support the eave.  In some diagrams I see there is no eave rafters at all and the counter-battens are the only thing supporting the eave slates.  I would have thought a false eave screwed on throught the ewi with couter-battens running down over the insulation on top of the rafters and cantilevering the 'hanging eave' would be enough support.  I know it is not standard but it seems to fix all the problems of thermal bridging.  The only chance of it being a problem (as far as i can see) is if the insulation (both ewi and ERI) cant take the forces but i would expect this could be spec'ed out.<br /><br />Paddy]]>
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		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 24 Feb 2011 09:56:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>davidfreeborough</author>
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			<![CDATA[I agree this is an elegant solution & probably fixes all the issues. The load on the insulation could be spread by fitting plywood under the counter battens where they run over the junction of EWI & roof insulation. This plywood could be extended onto the overhang if you don't want to look at the underside of the tiles/tile battens. However, this approach is not compatible with draining the roofing membrane into the gutter & ventilation of the undertile void is fiddly. <br /><br />As the membrane is under the counter battens, the gutter needs to be close to the toe of the first tile & the gutter needs to be fixed to the counter batten ends. If the counter battens taper to 100-125mm thick on the overhang then the membrane needs to come up through this thickness to drain into the gutter while maintaining a downwards slope. This can be done, but then there's nothing to fix the gutter to. Some solutions get around this by not draining the roofing membrane into the gutter. Instead it just drains over a flashing on top of the EWI.<br /><br />It is best practice to ventilate the undertile void. If the roofing membrane drains over the EWI then you need to fit a ventilator to each of the rafter openings. A continuous ventilator is a lot easier. <br /><br />These issues & the need to ventilate above a woodfibre sarking board led me to the "cantilevered eaves board" solution. Here a plywood eaves board is used to tie together the rafters, eaves batten & false rafter feet. This could be easily adapated for a EWI/warm roof junction & avoids all the thermal bridges.<br /><br />David]]>
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		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 24 Feb 2011 11:56:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>pmagowan</author>
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			<![CDATA[See what you mean David.  I had intended to put the felt over the counter-battens and then it could drain into the gutter.  Some people say it should sag to encourage water away from the woodwork and nail holes but I appreciate there is a counter-argument.  It is incredible how many variations of such a simple process that there can be!<br /><br />thanks<br />Paddy]]>
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		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 24 Feb 2011 22:33:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>jamesingram</author>
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			<![CDATA[a designer i know, has kindly had a go at a solution to this wall/roof detail for EWI <br />ones an improved version of my warm roof sketch more along the lines of what Toms suggesting i think .<br />the others a cold roof option, I've attach it below<br /><br /><blockquote ><cite >Posted By: fostertom</cite>If custom made windows/doors, they needn't be nom 2000 high - drop the heads by 100, squeeze the pitch a bit flatter, push it a bit higher under the 1stFl cills. Must be all-window, no EWI'd wall, to need 152x152 steel! What a high-conductive bridge - how about a slim column to reduce span, subst a 100x150 timber lintol laid flat, needing no additional wall plate.</blockquote><br /><br />Yes , 2400 doors and 1800 window , 1100 inbetween , hadn't really thought about the "high-conductive bridge"  i presumed the EWI above heads would be my get out of jail free card. <br />I considered 2 140/140 box lintels but went for a steel to tie it all together.<br />I should have considered the wood option , though possibly wrongly I presumed wood lintels tricky to get accepted by BC . Not really up on that area. would be interested in more info.<br />Tile finishes just under 1st flr cills so no room for change there.<br />I cut and pitched it today so will look to insulate/felt and batton tomorrow and post some pics]]>
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		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 25 Feb 2011 08:51:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>davidfreeborough</author>
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			<![CDATA[I like the warm roof detail, look forward to seeing the pics. <br /><br />What are the tile battens fixed to above the end of the secondary rafters? Are there 50x50mm counter battens fixed to the primary rafters?<br /><br />The only weakness I see is windtightness. The sarking membrane will need to drape over the secondary rafters &/or counter battens making it difficult to seal this to the top of the EWI. <br /><br />David]]>
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		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 19 Mar 2011 15:17:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>jamesingram</author>
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			<![CDATA[david , i'm not to concerned re windtightness as i feel the foil faced PUR will achieve this <br />here's some pixs of what i did in the end , a bit of a mix of several methods<br />there are also 2 x 2/2 noggs below the OSB spaced equally down the stub rafter , towards the plate and a wooden wedge under each stub rafter where it hits the plate ( this is a point of insulation bridge)<br /><br />So 150mm rafters with full fill rockwall in between / 110mm ( 60+50 staggered joins ) PUR above rafters / counter battons fixed with 200mm timber lock structural screws at recomended spacing to main rafters ( much easier to use than helixfix spiral fixing etc. ) / breather felt / battons /tiles<br /><br />Was unable to follow previous warm roof drawing i attached due to plate height/pitch restrictions etc. but by perhaps looking into using wooden beam ( rather than steel)  to reduce plate height and raising main rafter so a it hit the plate as shown in the designers diagram , would have been a better solution<br />Lining up counter battons with rafter under the ERI was simple and only missed once or twice out of 200+ fixings, it's a good idea to mark up the PUR so as you dont need to think about it.]]>
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		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=105601#Comment_105601</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 19 Mar 2011 15:38:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>jamesingram</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Below rafters , working up<br />skim / Plasterboard / 25mm service cavity / 2 layers of cheap polythene vapour barrier / 150mm rafter etc.<br />VB brought down and meshed over and wet plastered at wall junctions for long term airtightness]]>
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		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=105629#Comment_105629</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 19 Mar 2011 23:22:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>tony</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Oops --  better not tell anyone this but there should be 150mm between the tiles and the window sill, that's if you can get them to fit but I've seen plenty without and without problems too.]]>
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		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=105635#Comment_105635</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 20 Mar 2011 08:20:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>jamesingram</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Yes , makes sense , generally i probably would leave at least 150mm for the flashing upstand. <br />Intending to EWI (100-200mm) the wall at first floor at some point, so this will bring the wall out along the pitch and increase the sil to tile distance for flashing , also the sil extensions will help . For now i'll just bodge it with flashband.<br />cheers Jim]]>
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		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=105661#Comment_105661</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 20 Mar 2011 10:16:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>fostertom</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Superb tidy site - like a photo-shoot!]]>
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		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=105670#Comment_105670</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 20 Mar 2011 11:50:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>jamesingram</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Must have been having a good day, all the usual mess is just out of shot. Though we do seem to spent quite a bit of time tidying up, sometimes seems like half the job.<br />i often tidy/round up my tools twice a day , especially when doing plumbing stuff, otherwise you cant move without treading on something.]]>
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		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=120909#Comment_120909</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 27 Oct 2011 11:17:50 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>gooday</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[After my posts on the EWI below ground insulation thread. I am now getting to the eaves details. <br /><br />Again I have put together a sketch up file based on all the ideas above. if anyone wants a copy let me know. <br /><br />Any comments/suggestions welcome, I havent shown the fascia/soffit on the diagram as it covers up the details, but I would fix the fascia to the false rafters.<br /><br />I have a couple of questions:<br /><br />1.Does the OSB need to be 18mm thick or would say 9mm do? <br /><br />2. 'Bubble glue' has been suggested in the past for joining the osb, any trade names for this?<br /><br />3. If using EPS/Fibre glass for insulation do we need a vapour barrier in board of the insulation?<br /><br />4.  Does the EPS sheets need joining with anything or is just pushing them togehter good enough?<br /><br />Thanks]]>
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