<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?>
	<rss version="2.0">
		<channel>
			<title>Green Building Forum - Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
			<lastBuildDate>Thu, 11 Jun 2026 20:27:53 +0100</lastBuildDate>
			<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/</link>
			<description></description>
			<generator>Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3</generator>
			<item>
		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=120949#Comment_120949</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=120949#Comment_120949</guid>
		<pubDate>Thu, 27 Oct 2011 16:06:57 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>tony</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[1) yes thinner tends to buckle opening up air paths<br />2)I would use t&g and tape joints <br />3)yes<br />4)foam?]]>
		</description>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=121040#Comment_121040</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=121040#Comment_121040</guid>
		<pubDate>Fri, 28 Oct 2011 11:30:09 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>gooday</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Thanks Tony, <br /><br />Would the foam not push the sheets apart as it expands? <br /><br />Would a special EPS glue be better?]]>
		</description>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=121052#Comment_121052</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=121052#Comment_121052</guid>
		<pubDate>Fri, 28 Oct 2011 13:36:41 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>tony</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[use non expanding foam only a little is needed, most use none after all, it will be better than the glue I think but care is still needed.]]>
		</description>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=121053#Comment_121053</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=121053#Comment_121053</guid>
		<pubDate>Fri, 28 Oct 2011 13:38:56 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>gooday</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[ok thanks]]>
		</description>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=121062#Comment_121062</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=121062#Comment_121062</guid>
		<pubDate>Fri, 28 Oct 2011 14:07:12 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>davidfreeborough</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[9mm OSB3 is not available in T&G, so you'll need noggins where the board edges meet creating potential thermal bridges. 18mm T&G boards don't require noggins & avoid the thermal bridges.<br /><br />18mm sarking boards should also avoid the need for diagonal & longitudinal bracing below the rafters, making it easier to fit the air barrier/VCL membrane.<br /><br />I would always use a VCL membrane when placing the OSB part way through the insulation. It's not necessary if the OSB is on the warm side, as long as you glue &/or tape the OSB joints.<br /><br />David]]>
		</description>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=167606#Comment_167606</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=167606#Comment_167606</guid>
		<pubDate>Sat, 16 Feb 2013 12:32:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Shevek</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[&lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;cite&gt;Posted By: davidfreeborough&lt;/cite&gt;Take a look at Mike Whitfield's AECB conference presentation half way down the following page:<br /><br /><a href="http://www.aecb.net/conference2007.php" target="_self" rel="nofollow">http://www.aecb.net/conference2007.php</a><br /><br />He's not using EWI, but I'm sure you can re-use many of the same ideas.&lt;/blockquote&gt;<br /><br />This seems to have disappeared from AECB's but you can find it here:<br /><a href="http://tinyurl.com/bw5gmdo" target="_self" rel="nofollow">http://tinyurl.com/bw5gmdo</a>]]>
		</description>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=167926#Comment_167926</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=167926#Comment_167926</guid>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Feb 2013 12:18:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>fostertom</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: davidfreeborough</cite>9mm OSB3 is not available in T&G, so you'll need noggins where the board edges meet creating potential thermal bridges</blockquote>Been using dryliner's 0.7mm galv angles and flatstraps, tacked across the face of the studs/rafters, as 'nogging' to back the butt joints of 9 OSB3, with power-screws to pull the metal flat against the back of the OSB and gap filling expanding polyurethane adhesive. No thermal bridging results, and in fact with site discipline, a great deal of the customary bits and pieces of additional timbers can be eliminated from the insulation zone. Including no need for 2 abutting stud/rafters at angles (wall verticals, hips, wall-to-roof at eaves etc) to support 2 abutting board edges - one member is enough, with a metal angle attached, to pick up the second board edge. Same principle applied borth to plastereboard lining and to OSB sheathing.<br /><br />On the other hand, using 18 T&G OSB3 instead of 9 straight edged, means that much (but not all) of the metal flatstrapping (or trad noggings) is unecessary. Take your pick. Vikinghouse prefers the 18 way.<br /><br />Having had builders each choose differently, between 9 + flatsraps, and 18 T&G + other noggings, it's clear to me that 9 is the way to go - cheaper, far less handling, easy cutting, easy everything in fact - pics attached. Andy Dodden, an02ew of this forum, the builder.]]>
		</description>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=167927#Comment_167927</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=167927#Comment_167927</guid>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Feb 2013 12:34:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>fostertom</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Here's pics of doing it with 18T&G - hard going, much grumbling, handling 8x4s of this stuff up and over the ridge, gappy joints, still needing noggings because they haven't got their heads round the ease of metal flatstrapping etc.]]>
		</description>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=167940#Comment_167940</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=167940#Comment_167940</guid>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Feb 2013 13:30:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>an02ew</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[There is other of factors in this debate. <br /><br />Weather- Given the nature of OSB to degrade in wet condition a thicker board would cope better, corners and edges would crumble easy on the 9mm.<br /><br />Fixing- 9mm OSB could be fixed with either colated screws or power nails. 18mm could only be fixed with nails and each nail would require checkingit had driven home.<br /><br />Cost- 9mm per M2 would be less than 18mm t&amp;G and less glue<br /><br />Cutting - 9MM again easier also with 18mmT&G the joint requires handing]]>
		</description>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=167950#Comment_167950</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=167950#Comment_167950</guid>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Feb 2013 13:50:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>fostertom</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: an02ew</cite>18mm could only be fixed with nails and each nail would require checkingit had driven home.</blockquote>That rules out using non-thermal bridging metal flatstraps/angles for the many edges/joints that the T&G still wouldn't take care of. So back to thermal-bridging timber noggings and additional members at plane changes.<br /><br />Andy used square edged 11 rather than 9 OSB3 on a subsequent job, for more robustness, as above. On the other hand, consider 6 OSB3 on verticals?!<br /><br />The metal angles and flatstraps are also used just the same on the inner face of the studs/rafters, for the plasterboard. Once you have them on site, they can make many things easy. However not available from typical bldrs merchants - you have to hunt out your sources in advance.]]>
		</description>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=167980#Comment_167980</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=167980#Comment_167980</guid>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Feb 2013 17:17:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>an02ew</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: fostertom</cite>That rules out using non-thermal bridging metal flatstraps/angles for the many edges/joints that the T&G still wouldn't take care of. So back to thermal-bridging timber noggings and additional members at plane changes.<br /></blockquote><br /> Thats right, and i hadn`t realy thought it through but fixing metal strips, corner through such a robust sheet would be a real pain, somtimes it can be awkward when using much thinner board 9/11mm and a very liberal application of expanding glue is a godsend for taking up suspected bad compression between metal and sheet(often cant be seen behind work piece)<br /><br />i will have to rethink a trial of 18mm sheathing on my next job, just wanted to see if its as quick and asy as 9/11mm]]>
		</description>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=194783#Comment_194783</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=194783#Comment_194783</guid>
		<pubDate>Wed, 29 Jan 2014 12:54:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Rick_M</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[I know it's recommended to use low expanding foam to attach sheets and foam board edges for airtightness, but I was wondering if this affects the ability of the wall to breathe?  I mean. is it creating a vapour tight barrier in the wall sandwich?]]>
		</description>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=194786#Comment_194786</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=194786#Comment_194786</guid>
		<pubDate>Wed, 29 Jan 2014 13:26:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>tony</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[EPS will allow water vapour through.]]>
		</description>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=194841#Comment_194841</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=194841#Comment_194841</guid>
		<pubDate>Wed, 29 Jan 2014 20:19:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Rick_M</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[I know vapour can pass through the EPS, I was wondering if it could pass through the PU(?) foams used to fix and seal it?]]>
		</description>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Best Spec for EWI retrofit</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=194845#Comment_194845</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6967&amp;Focus=194845#Comment_194845</guid>
		<pubDate>Wed, 29 Jan 2014 22:09:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>tony</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[It will travel round it]]>
		</description>
	</item>
	
		</channel>
	</rss>