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			<title>Green Building Forum - Improving a ten year old house</title>
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		<title>Improving a ten year old house</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=820&amp;Focus=8806#Comment_8806</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 03 Nov 2007 08:09:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Paul_B</author>
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			<![CDATA[From reading these forums on and off the advice seems to be improve insulation and draught-proofing as the most effective way to improve the performance of a house.<br /><br />Our house is a ten year old modern detached building with double glazing and cavity wall insulation. Therefore, where do I start the improvements? What would give the best return in terms of money and environmental benefit?<br /><br />Many thanks,<br /><br />Paul]]>
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		<title>Improving a ten year old house</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=820&amp;Focus=8807#Comment_8807</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 03 Nov 2007 09:29:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>WoodYouLikeKent</author>
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			<![CDATA[Install a water softener? Improves the effectiveness of your boiler, central heating etc, reduces electricity costs, detergent costs etc.]]>
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		<title>Improving a ten year old house</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=820&amp;Focus=8809#Comment_8809</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 03 Nov 2007 10:13:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Nick Parsons</author>
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			<![CDATA[Chase air-leakage. There may well be plenty.]]>
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		<title>Improving a ten year old house</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=820&amp;Focus=8811#Comment_8811</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 03 Nov 2007 10:50:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>tony</author>
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			<![CDATA[Would you said, Install a water softener? Improves the effectiveness of your boiler  -----   No it may even wreck your boiler!<br /><br />Is your house dry lined ie blobbed and dobbed?]]>
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		<title>Improving a ten year old house</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=820&amp;Focus=8812#Comment_8812</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 03 Nov 2007 11:32:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Paul_B</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Yes it is dry lined with blob and dob for the dry lining. Then breeze block, rockwool for cavity and external red-brick.<br /><br />Floorboards are chipboard sheets with un-instulated floor void to the ceiling below. Loft space is filled with rockwool to a level above the rafters, not exactly sure how thick I'll have to measure the next time I am up there.<br /><br />Windows are PVCu double-glazed. All have internal seals where the window closes. Front door is probably wood veneer with internal insulation and rubber seal in closure. Letter-box has two flaps and a brush for draught-proofing. Just fitted full length thick curtains in front of the front door.<br /><br />Paul]]>
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		<title>Improving a ten year old house</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=820&amp;Focus=8814#Comment_8814</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 03 Nov 2007 12:37:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>tony</author>
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			<![CDATA[By far and away the best thing that you need to do is to stop the wind from outside coming in through the block work and blowing around behind your dry linings and cooling the rooms. It may very well be coming into the rooms too through socket outlets under the skirtings etc.<br /><br />It is not easy to stop but unless you do then on windy days you are going to be cold and loosing far too much heat -- akin to living in a plasterboard tent.<br /><br />Sorry, move house or take off the dry linings and wet plaster--  yikes!!   I know   ---  there are no real alternatives may be go room at a time?<br /><br />There is another problem almost as big and that is that between the ceiling and the first floor wind and cold from outside can whistle arround cooling both the ceiling and the floor rather like having no loft insulation -- again a difficult problem to solve air enters through the blocks and cracks and gaps in the blocks between and parallel to the joists and arround the joist ends. All of this in an almost inaccesible place to get at.<br /><br />Loft insulation could be increased to 300mm.]]>
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		<title>Improving a ten year old house</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=820&amp;Focus=8817#Comment_8817</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 03 Nov 2007 13:03:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Paul_B</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Thanks Tony for the overview. Well love where we live and the house and I am not adverse to ripping out the plasterboard to improve druaght-proofing and insulation. <br /><br />Are there any guides I could follow on this subject? Could I batten the internal side of the external walls and insulate further? If so should I go enviromental insulation such as wool or man-made foam sheets? Shoul I then replaster for clay or lime rather than normal plaster?<br /><br />I don't mind lifting the chipboard and again insulating the void, but again what would be best, what do I need to consider. At the same time it would be nice to fit underfloor heating to run a lower temperature, remove the unappealing radiators (all under windows) and have a more distributed heating system with room control.<br /><br />If I do start ripping stuff out can any of it be recycled?<br /><br />Paul]]>
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		<title>Improving a ten year old house</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=820&amp;Focus=8820#Comment_8820</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 03 Nov 2007 14:37:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>tony</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[That's good. It may well be OK to rip off the dry linings on external walls only. I would not do battens and extra insulation you will be OK without that so long as you get air leakage free. You should be able to reuse the skirtings and window-boards again.<br /><br />The chipboard flooring can be carefully taken up and reused <br /><br />The idea whether or not you batten would be to wet plaster all the block work including between the floor and ceiling to let it form you air tightness barrier, link it to all other ones, frames , openings, ceilings, floors etc.<br /><br />You can use any wet plaster system, lime would be great.<br /><br />To lift chipboard flooring first pull the nails out with a nail puller I have one where are you?  Then disengage the t&g and lift the sheet cutting at walls that have been built in the floor and inserting support noggins to carry the cut edges.<br /><br />For underfloor heating upstairs you will need to lift almost all the sheets and the air sealing of the floor void perimeter becomes even more crucial.<br /><br />Sounds like you have a good grip on the works needed and I wish you a successful outcome<br /><br />What is the ground floor construction?]]>
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		<title>Improving a ten year old house</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=820&amp;Focus=8822#Comment_8822</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 03 Nov 2007 17:16:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Paul_B</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Tony,<br /><br />I'm just outside Eastbourne. Do you have a link to the nailer puller you use? In the past I have ended up using a hole cutter around the nails in the chipboard because most are buried beneath the surface. When cutting the chipboard close to the skirting are there any trade secrets for getting as close as possible, or is it just a case of a circular saw leaving a couple of inches of skirting all round?<br /><br />The ground floor is a concrete slab and I am really not sure what to do with it to improve the heat retention. Again I would like to move away from the current radiators for aesthetic reason as much as anything. But then what are my options, underfloor heating would raise the floor in all rooms and would I just be heating the slab and loosing heat away? I did think about radiant panels as sold by Construction Resources but as they seem to be the only supplier in the UK of such a technology I can't help thinking it may not be viable.<br /><br />Paul]]>
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		<title>Improving a ten year old house</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=820&amp;Focus=8824#Comment_8824</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 03 Nov 2007 18:20:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>tony</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Bahco 38 nail puller or second hand one similar. Mine is very old Canadian one. Borrowable tho. Can also punch the nails right through but then they cant be reused.<br /><br />use hand saw or sabre saw near walls and dont be afraid to remove skirtings. Pull the sheets out from under the skirtings where possible.<br /><br />For g/f underfloor heating take up screed (top 50mm usually and easy to do) and replace it with pipes in it or a floating floor?]]>
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		<title>Improving a ten year old house</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=820&amp;Focus=8828#Comment_8828</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 03 Nov 2007 19:50:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Paul_B</author>
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			<![CDATA[Tony,<br /><br />Thank you very much. I have been toiling with this for some time.<br /><br />How easy is it to remove the screed? Do I need a special piece of equipment?<br /><br />Paul]]>
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		<title>Improving a ten year old house</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=820&amp;Focus=8829#Comment_8829</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 03 Nov 2007 20:03:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>tony</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Hammer, or mini sledge, pick, shovel, if you are unlucky a "kango" but often not necessary.<br /><br />Hit the floor all over and start taking out lumps as soon as you can then lever up hopefully big pieces of it  --  mind out for pipes buried in it.]]>
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		<title>Improving a ten year old house</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=820&amp;Focus=8830#Comment_8830</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 03 Nov 2007 20:40:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Paul_B</author>
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			<![CDATA[Special equipment is me and some muscle power then <img src="/newforum/extensions/Vanillacons/smilies/standard/bigsmile.gif" alt=":bigsmile:" title=":bigsmile:" /><br /><br />Well just spent the day scarifing my front lawn so I am knackered, puts me in a good position for having a go at the floor!<br /><br />What would be considered as a minimul insulation layer between slab and UFH? Guess I'm looking at a phenolic foam insulation?]]>
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		<title>Improving a ten year old house</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=820&amp;Focus=8831#Comment_8831</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 03 Nov 2007 21:57:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>tony</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Yes. Some muscle power and good technique too -- try and follow the boundary between the screed and the concrete lifting the screed upwards as you go.<br /><br />If you read other threads you will find that i dont think that underfloor insulation is all that necessary!  Round the edge of the floor -- yes  or better down the walls outside to the foundations would work well.  there will only be room for 20 mm max probably on your the floor.<br /><br />The heat finds it very difficult to escape from the centre of the floor so much so that I think that the temperatures on both sides of the insulation under the centre of the floor are the same in steady state. ie the insulation is not doing anything, this is controversial but the idea is to make use of the thermal mass of the floor and the stuff under the house too to help maintain a stable temperature in the rooms. As you get nearer the outside walls it is easier so that is why I say insulate downwards.]]>
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		<title>Improving a ten year old house</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=820&amp;Focus=8862#Comment_8862</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 05 Nov 2007 06:53:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Solar bore</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Can You fit another door to create an air-lock.<br /><br />We have done so in our hallway 1890's terrace.<br />Its exceeded my expectations, the inner door is the old back door with the thinnest double gazing I could find when I upgraded it 15yrs ago.  <br />Have turned off the radiator in air lock (sufficient room to have cycle in) <br /> shut one door before opening other.<br /><br />Don't forget to take pictures of work as you progress if only to prove you have done work if you ever sell up!]]>
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		<title>Improving a ten year old house</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=820&amp;Focus=8863#Comment_8863</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 05 Nov 2007 08:12:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Solar bore</author>
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			<![CDATA[You started this stream - because of advise given on this forum.<br /><br />I had my energy usage put on a spreadsheet on last Friday.<br /><br />As a result I can see I have saved Â£446.00 in 2006 and a Â£651.00 in 2007 <br />In November 2005 had a condensing boiler fitted. total energy use Â£1098<br /><br />My Gas costs 2.59 p KWh & Electric 10.62 p no standing Charge.<br /><br />If you would like a copy of spreadsheet my address is on members page info.<br /><br />So since 2005 I have spent saved Â£1098.00.<br /><br />We have spent <br />Â£2500 on new boiler and installing non electric shower.<br />Â£2300 Solar Panel after money back from Gov.Â£400 + Chester Council Â£100<br />Â£1100 Multi-fuel Stove in front room <br />Â£0080 Fan to sit on Stove - brilliant piece of kit.<br />--------<br />Â£5980]]>
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		<title>Improving a ten year old house</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=820&amp;Focus=8901#Comment_8901</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 05 Nov 2007 21:11:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Terry</author>
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			<![CDATA[and thats at todays prices so as things go up payback will be quick]]>
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		<title>Improving a ten year old house</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=820&amp;Focus=8904#Comment_8904</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 05 Nov 2007 22:56:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>tony</author>
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			<![CDATA[What if you had sealed it all up and insulated it extreemly well instead?]]>
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