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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeJan 13th 2012
     
    JSH's thread on Solar has got me thinking more generally about the DHW design. I realised that I had no idea what temperature I needed for a shower and I was also stimulated about the point on legionella.

    I took a quick trip to Mira (random supplier) and checked out a random shower instruction. It seems that their recommendation is that the hot supply should be 60°C to 65°C with a minimum of 55°C. Seems a bit high to me but how does that fit with others experience and or design criteria?

    The Ecocent for instance, quotes figures at 55°C

    It also brings me back to the vexatious question of how to boost the DHW temperature when necessary.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJan 13th 2012
     
    In the US and Canada they use 50C so clearly that must be OK or they would have lots of problems with L

    Mine is 50 too

    shower is usually 42C

    Cant see why any sane person would want to boost temp.
  1.  
    MY GSHP gives me DHW at 52 and I mix with cold when showering. My wife loves a hot shower and she also mixes. My aim now is to drop the temp until I use the hot with no cold. Why heat water to the degree that you then cool it with cold. It is a total waste of energy. I was very suprised how hot 52 actually is when you are showering. Just my recent findings,
    Gusty.
    •  
      CommentAuthorDamonHD
    • CommentTimeJan 13th 2012
     
    I'm running our (instant) DHW at somewhere around 40C, partly for efficiency and partly because we have small children so I want to eliminate scald risk.

    Rgds

    Damon
    •  
      CommentAuthorDamonHD
    • CommentTimeJan 13th 2012 edited
     
    gusty: heating to above use temp and mixing down with cold need not waste energy per se, you'll just be using *less* hot (ie with slower flow than your shower flow) than otherwise.

    But losses from pipework, tanks, etc may prove higher I agree.

    Rgds

    Damon
    •  
      CommentAuthorJSHarris
    • CommentTimeJan 13th 2012
     
    I've been running my DHW at 48 to 50 deg C for the past year, feeding a thermostatic shower mixer valve and have no problems. The temperature seems to be well controlled and doesn't fluctuate much when other taps or appliances demand water.

    I don't have a particular legionella risk though, as DHW comes from a combi boiler. It may be that the potential for bacterial growth in storage systems is the reason companies suggest higher DHW temperatures.
  2.  
    DamonHD,
    Fair point I guess. Its a little different for my position as DHW is one of the issues that causes the COP to drop. I just want to get my water temp lower and see how it performs,
    Gusty.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJan 13th 2012
     
    good idea.
  3.  
    My gas-fired hot water tank is set to 51.6C (125F). I have a thermostatic mixing valve in the shower that's set to 38C usually, though sometimes I run it closer to 40C. As we have mains-pressure hot water here I have no fear of legionella, though, supposedly, up to 25% of electric hot water tanks in Quebec have some contamination, even though they are set at 60C. Apparently about 100 people per year here are hospitalized due to pneumonia caused by contaminated water tanks.

    More info here: http://www.treehugger.com/green-food/is-it-safe-to-turn-down-your-water-heater-temperature.html

    Paul in Montreal.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeJan 13th 2012
     
    Posted By: borpin..........
    I took a quick trip to Mira (random supplier) and checked out a random shower instruction. It seems that their recommendation is that the hot supply should be 60°C to 65°C with a minimum of 55°C. Seems a bit high to me but how does that fit with others experience and or design criteria?
    The Ecocent for instance, quotes figures at 55°C
    It also brings me back to the vexatious question of how to boost the DHW temperature when necessary.

    Tony's right 55°C is too hot, 50°C is plenty hot enough even in the kitchen. and I'd say 40-45° C for showering. Any hotter and you'd be taking the skin off your back. I keep my DHW at 45 - 50°C.
    For boosting DHW temp I suppose it depends what quantities and from what source the HW is coming.
  4.  
    Posted By: JSHarrisI don't have a particular legionella risk though, as DHW comes from a combi boiler. It may be that the potential for bacterial growth in storage systems is the reason companies suggest higher DHW temperatures.


    I was of the understanding that shower heads are of particular risk, especially those used infrequently.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeJan 13th 2012
     
    Posted By: Paul in MontrealAs we have mains-pressure hot water here I have no fear of legionella...


    How does that follow?

    It's not the pressure which kills the spores, you know? :smile:
  5.  
    Posted By: Ed DaviesIt's not the pressure which kills the spores, you know?


    No, but the hot water tank isn't fed from a pigeon infested header tank where the chlorine long ago disappeared!

    Paul in Montreal.
    • CommentAuthorqeipl
    • CommentTimeJan 13th 2012
     
    My Ecocent came with a 55C default setting.
    Once I'd learned how to adjust the parameters I reduced this to 52C, and last year I reduced it to 48C. I like a hot shower and have no complaints. I may try reducing it further to find the tipping point - where the shower isn't quite hot enough.
    Someone here will be able to work out how much energy is saved by reducing DHW by one degree (I'm too lazy to do the sums).
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeJan 13th 2012
     
    I have my cylinder at about 50C, shower at about 38C via a mixer and bath at about 42C. Was set at 65C when I bought the place. Biggest problem is when there is more than 2 of us in the house. But that is not often. Flow rate is 11 l/min for shower and 19 l/min for bath. Think we had a thread on this fairly recently.
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeJan 13th 2012
     
    Posted By: qeiplMy Ecocent came with a 55C default setting.
    Ho wquickly does the output temperature of the Ecocent drop? Does it stratify well (i.e. keep the top hot)?
    • CommentAuthorqeipl
    • CommentTimeJan 13th 2012
     
    Posted By: borpin
    Posted By: qeiplMy Ecocent came with a 55C default setting.
    Ho wquickly does the output temperature of the Ecocent drop? Does it stratify well (i.e. keep the top hot)?


    I'm not sure about stratification but my teenage niece has had a 20+ minute shower without complaining of it going cold (just me complaining that she's been in there too long).

    20 minutes is probably 200 litres out of a 300 litre cylinder.
  6.  
    Mines entire DHW is set at 43 and it is the perfect temp according to the 3 of us - occasionally during the winter it needs the tiniest dash of cold but just depends on how one feels - during the summer we rarely use more than a tadge of hot as we live where its hot. Everyone is happy to shower with unmixed (and wouldn't have it hotter) but I would prefer a bit hotter to the kitchen sometimes, so for those big roast wash ups we boil a kettle. Can't see why I should waste heat on the way to the outlet points. Tank-in-tank (340 in 2000) heated 100% solar at top in summer usually 80 degs, never below 65 in shoulder seasons, wood burner in winter (80 deg every day or 2) so no legionella for me!
    • CommentAuthorwookey
    • CommentTimeJan 16th 2012
     
    Min DHW temp for a shower depends a little on air temp. We've learned that DHW needs to be at least 42 for acceptable shower, and 46 is better but bathroom is often chilly. If it is warmed up first then 42 is plenty. A bath in a cold room needs ~50C water for initial pour (55C is better), but higher than that for topping up as it needs to be significantly hotter than the large volume of water you are trying to warm up.
  7.  
    Posted By: wookeyA bath in a cold room needs ~50C water
    The room will be very cold if you're pouring super-cooled water out at -50C ... I thought water could only go down to about -40C before it had to freeze?!

    Good point about the bath topping-up temperature though!

    Paul in Montreal
    • CommentAuthorGavin_A
    • CommentTimeJan 16th 2012
     
    having read through a hell of a lot of research on the subject last year while arguing with the solar twin guy, I really don't think that setting the temperature below 50 is even vaguely sensible, as there are some strains of legionella that can survive at that temprature, and there's a good chance that your hot water pipes will never be at legionella killing temperatures, so it can just breed in the pipes.

    Some of the research I was reading (which btw concluded that there was no increased risk from solar thermal, and potentially it could actually be beneficial) showed that a lot of houses had legionella present in their systems, and this was directly related to lower tank temperatures, particularly anything below 50 degrees.

    Personally I reckon somewhere between 56-58 is a decent compromise, though something a bit lower could be ok for combis as long as there's nobody in a high risk category in the house / visiting.

    Having said that, on the numbers from those reports, if legionella were as dangerous as we're led to believe, then it'd be killing tens of thousands a year if not more, so some strains must be more dangerous than others or something.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJan 16th 2012
     
    How come there are not big problems the other side of the pond then?
    • CommentAuthorqeipl
    • CommentTimeJan 16th 2012
     
    The Ecocent's immersion heater automatically brings the water temp up to over 60C once a week to cook the bugs.
    •  
      CommentAuthorJSHarris
    • CommentTimeJan 16th 2012
     
    I'll call one of my former colleagues later (who's a microbiologist - some here know where I used to work, a certain establishment ~5 miles north east of Salisbury) and ask about the risk of legionella from water systems. I have a feeling that legionella and sealed clean water isn't that big a big risk. It's not my field by a long stretch, but logic suggests that the bacteria need a source of food and oxygen as well as warmth and I'm not sure what they can feed on in a sealed hot water system.
  8.  
    The issue with shower heads is the fact that they put the legionella into a spray where the bug can be inhaled. You drink legionella bugs all the time in main cold water. They do you no harm. Its only as you breath them in that you risk illness. Personally, I do not worry about it as I am fit and healthy and chances are I wouldnt know I had legionella. For most people I think you would have no problems, just cold like synptoms. Old or ill people may not be so lucky.
    I keep my hot water at about 55 from my solid fuel heating system in the winter and a little higher in the summer as we use ecenomy 7 immersion heater. We need the extra temperature to ensure we have enough kw to get us through the day without needing to burn expensive electricity.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeJan 16th 2012
     
    Posted By: JSHarris..........I'll call one of my former colleagues later (who's a microbiologist - some here know where I used to work, a certain establishment ~5 miles north east of Salisbury) and ask about the risk of legionella from water systems.

    I'll get an answer too from my Water Authority neighbour. BTW JS in another life I used to work at the other, teaching establishment a couple of miles West of your old workplace>:wink: Visited your place on three or four occasions.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeJan 16th 2012
     
    My lodger's Father works for Wessex Water, but something to do with muddy holes in the ground rather than quality.
    •  
      CommentAuthorJSHarris
    • CommentTimeJan 16th 2012 edited
     
    I've had a chat with a former colleague who knows far more than me about this stuff, and her view is this:

    The bacterium does need nutrients as well as warmth (between 20 to 40 deg C) to grow and multiply and won't generally colonise sealed tanks that have no air surface or source of nutrients in the form of biofilms, sludge, scum etc. The risk comes from the bit of the water system that can have warm water sitting in them for days and also be exposed to sources of nutrients. She knew of the work that had been done on air cooling system problems and reckoned that the main problem there was the water in them was exposed to air and dirt and so became contaminated with enough nutrients to allow the bugs to grow. The evaporative coolers acted as a way to spray the bugs into the air in a fine mist, making infection far more probable (apparently infection is from inhaling the bugs in fine water droplets, not drinking water with them in).

    She thought that the chance of legionella growth in a sealed, clean hot water tank was slight, the risk would be in the parts of the system that remained open, like shower pipes and nozzles, especially as there could be enough nutrients getting into those from back flow after use or just from splashing.

    When I mentioned the way that the Ecocent does a weekly hot cycle to kill the bugs she reckoned that was fairly ineffective unless the taps and shower were turned on and the hotter water allowed to flush through the pipes. Overall her view was that we might be worrying too much, in that the most probable areas for bacterial growth in showers and baths had always been around the right temperature for legionella for years, even with very hot DHW tanks (because by that point it's mixed down to around 40 deg C), and the risk of infection in this way was pretty low. In her view electric showers might be the worse culprits, as they have a tank internally that is open to the air and if allowed to stand unused at room temperature for a few days could well breed a significant population, especially if they had a build up internal scale that might harbour biofilms effectively. She did point out that she'd checked with a friend from the place next door (the Health Protection Agency) and his view was there wasn't a significant risk from a sealed system.

    I should perhaps add that she made a comment about there being far more serious bugs to worry about in the house than the remote possibility of legionella in the shower, but the conversation veered off into stories of bugs you simply wouldn't want to know about!

    I'm personally content that it seems to be a bit of a non-issue, provided the shower head is cleaned regularly and the pipes flushed without causing a spray after a period of a few days without use.
    • CommentAuthorGavin_A
    • CommentTimeJan 16th 2012
     
    Posted By: tonyHow come there are not big problems the other side of the pond then?

    you seem to be making an assumption there that there aren't problems. I'm not sure that's right...

    "in a study of 20 Pittsburgh patients with culture-confirmed Legionnaires’ disease. A link with residential drinking water contamination was established for eight (40%) patients. This included three private homes (one single dwelling, two multidwellings), two senior-citizen homes, two out-patient hospital clinics, and one industrial plant."

    http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2094925/


    They do conclude that 49 deg is fine for water heated via boiler coils, but higher temps are needed for immersion heaters, because they don't tend to heat the bottom of the tanks properly.

    For solar water heating systems though, a higher temperature is recommended because over winter the bottom of the tank may never or rarely be heated to legionella killing temps, so the temp at the top of the tank needs to be high enough to kill an bacteria as it passes through the hot volume at the top of the tank.
    •  
      CommentAuthorJSHarris
    • CommentTimeJan 16th 2012 edited
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: Gavin_A</cite><blockquote><cite>Posted By: tony</cite>How come there are not big problems the other side of the pond then?</blockquote>
    you seem to be making an assumption there that there aren't problems. I'm not sure that's right...

    "in a study of 20 Pittsburgh patients with culture-confirmed Legionnaires’ disease. A link with residential drinking water contamination was established for eight (40%) patients. This included three private homes (one single dwelling, two multidwellings), two senior-citizen homes, two out-patient hospital clinics, and one industrial plant."

    http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2094925/


    They do conclude that 49 deg is fine for water heated via boiler coils, but higher temps are needed for immersion heaters, because they don't tend to heat the bottom of the tanks properly.

    For solar water heating systems though, a higher temperature is recommended because over winter the bottom of the tank may never or rarely be heated to legionella killing temps, so the temp at the top of the tank needs to be high enough to kill an bacteria as it passes through the hot volume at the top of the tank.</blockquote>

    Worth noting that I've just been told that infection isn't from drinking water with legionella in it, but by inhaling large populations in a fine water spray. A lot of bigger air conditioning systems use water evaporative cooling which is a particular problem if not regularly treated to kill off the bugs, hence the prevalence of infections in bigger multi-occupancy dwellings, nursing homes etc in the US, where air-con is pretty much standard.
   
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