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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
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    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeJan 26th 2012
     
    In http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/forum114/comments.php?DiscussionID=7487&page=1#Item_15
    Posted By: SeretI'm looking at replacing the passive vent in my bathroom with a humidity-triggered fan
    which reminded me to ask:
    What is peoples' experience with whole-house Passivent, as alternative to MHRV?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJan 26th 2012
     
    bad by the sounds of it!
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeJan 26th 2012
     
    Posted By: fostertomWhat is peoples' experience with whole-house Passivent, as alternative to MHRV?
    I fitted one in my last house and 14 years later it was still working fine. Upstairs in a 1 1/2 storey house - vented to ridge. Seemed to do what it said on the tin!
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeJan 30th 2012
     
    Giving this a kick - surely more than just one GBF member has used Passivent-type unpowered stack ventilation systems? There must be much to say about it.
    • CommentAuthormrsherbie
    • CommentTimeJan 31st 2012
     
    We have just installed them 4 : bath, shower, kitchen, utility + 1 used as a Soil vent, all to ridge tiles (keymer handmade clay tiles bonded to the glidevale/passivent black plastic part, not the badly matching 'resin?' tiles that you can get from passivent!) but not lived in house yet to try them out!

    Main incentive= ultra quiet house, no fans! ahh ... : )
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeJan 31st 2012
     
    thanks borphin and mrsherbie

    Did you follow recommendations about permanent air inlet, and what do you think of that in an 'airtight' house?

    Any experience of making the vents openable/closeable, perhaps automatically controlled by humidistat? That wd have to open/close both inlet and exhaust ducts (in pairs) simultaneously.
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeJan 31st 2012
     
    Posted By: fostertomDid you follow recommendations about permanent air inlet, and what do you think of that in an 'airtight' house?
    Last house was so leaky it really did not matter! Air tightness back then was not even considered.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeJan 31st 2012
     
    That just leaves mrsherbie then, who's fitted Passivent to a (?) 'modern' house. Is Passivent really unknown to GBF members? That says something about it.
    •  
      CommentAuthorDamonHD
    • CommentTimeJan 31st 2012
     
    Just had a look and could possible use one in our kitchen fitted to old boiler flue (though there is asbestos lurking there, which would be tricky to deal with).

    Currently we have permanently-open air vents for gas cooking, so it looks plausible.

    Didn't find any pricing yet.

    Rgds

    Damon
    •  
      CommentAuthorjoe90
    • CommentTimeJan 31st 2012
     
    I like the idea of Passivent as no running costs, no noise and nothing to go wrong/maintain. BUT I dont like the idea of it being uncontrolled i.e. different vent rates depending if it is windy/hot/cold. It would be good if there was a way of auto control (not passive then!!!)

    I like MVHR because of its ability to recover heat (cost) and its controllability. With clever design and reading the thread on MVHR without noise I am sure it is achievable to have a quiet system.
  1.  
    kevin mccloud used it in his grand design, well it was called 'stack' ventilation. Is that the same thing? Maybe he will publish a report on his project?
    • CommentAuthormrsherbie
    • CommentTimeFeb 3rd 2012 edited
     
    Yes, ours brand new/in progress, very traditional build/oak frame but warm roof, airtight, fully celotex wrapped etc. Predicted energy assessment=74%efficiency, 97%carbon.
    I think it depends on your lifestyle and where you live, we have no neighbours and it is pindrop quiet here, hence my not wanting any fans or noise whatsoever. We are always home and very outdoorsy so doors/windows open. My folks have full MHRV(2units) and the bathrooms/mirrors DO steam up when you have a shower or run a bath, so the mhrv clearly does not work as well as elec fans, even though it is powered. So we are prepared to open a window slightly when we use these rooms anyway as we have oak beams running though them.

    We have a new wood burning rayburn going in(we currently live with a 40's backboiler one) so need direct airflow for this anyway, which ironically is coming in low down through the wall in the kitchen in the form of an old fashioned airbrick!
    The rayburn needs it, and the dog likes to lay in a draught so it has 2 purposes LOL! The stone floor is UFH so the draught wont be a problem.
    Obviously we have window trickle vents.
    But in such an insulated house we have been actively 'adding' draughts & airflow LOL!

    We could not have mhrv anyway as we are all vaulted ceilings under the warm roof with no lofts to hide ducting. So running ducting up inside the roof was our only option. Also I didnt want ANY pipes or protrusions coming through my lovely roof for visual reasons.

    Yes, we have been wary of building a tupperware box to live in! not our thing! but it really is not that hard to open windows!
    People seem to be getting ridiculously obsessed about building a hermetically sealed box with everything 'fully controllable'?? why?? people used to live in caves!
    All these cheaply made electrical 'gadgets' DO go wrong after a period, because as we all know nothing is built to last nowadays : (

    And as we are building a 'house for life' and will never move from here, simplicity in design and a total lack of pretentious 'outdated or broken down by next week' gadgety junk has shone through as the long term best maintenance solution
    : )
    • CommentAuthordickster
    • CommentTimeFeb 3rd 2012
     
    DIY Passivent?

    Having passed our air test with flying colours and to see if we could avoid using MVHR, cut 150mm hole (under island worktop) down through the suspended floor into the ventilated underfloor void (don't tell the builder!). Made concealed sliding vent for open/close.

    With the top bedroom window cracked open to allow a chimney effect, thus far all seems fairly well. It's left open above around 5C external, half closed when windy and cold, had it fully closed overnight last night -7C, and opened half way this morning.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeFeb 3rd 2012
     
    And your heating system turned off? Or accepting that you're throwing away all your heated air prob every 20mins and re-heating that much outside air 3 times an hour?

    That's the size of it, a conundrum that MHRV 80% solves.

    Question is, can a Passivent (or DIY equiv) system be automatically controlled so as to do that wasteful thing only when really necessary e.g. under humidistat control - bearing in mind that the control has to be of both inlet and outlet channel(s) simultaneously.
    • CommentAuthordickster
    • CommentTimeFeb 3rd 2012
     
    Nah! Just the log burning stove on. Using 36Kwh of logs a day on average over last three weeks, toasty warm, happy with compromise of losing some heat. Very doubtful over the theoretical need to change air every 20 mins, might as well live in a tent. Probably do 1-2 changes per day, + have to open doors to get in and out.

    Thought about automating the valve, good project (for another day), but if inlet valve is closed can't see much of a flow throught outlet (no chimney effect).
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeFeb 6th 2012
     
    Just a thought about controlling a passive vent, could the windspeed and/or direction not be used to vary a venturi. SO the faster the wind blows through it, the less effective the venturi becomes, or in aeronautical terms, it stalls at a relatively slow speed. They may do this already.
    •  
      CommentAuthorJSHarris
    • CommentTimeFeb 6th 2012
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: SteamyTea</cite>Just a thought about controlling a passive vent, could the windspeed and/or direction not be used to vary a venturi. SO the faster the wind blows through it, the less effective the venturi becomes, or in aeronautical terms, it stalls at a relatively slow speed. They may do this already.</blockquote>

    Easy enough to do, just adapt the variable geometry intake ramp design that's used on SS aircraft to slow intake air speed to subsonic before the first stage compressor. These are often rectangular ducts where the floor of the duct is a hinged pair of ramps that can lift up to form a venturi. By moving the rear edge further forward along the floor of the duct the hinged section moves up to form a tighter venturi.

    Whether you could get such a system to work as a passive vent would depend very much on how you go about engineering it. Personally, I think that something that's not wind direction dependent might be better, like a rotating suction vent (the ones that are essentially a centrifugal fan driven by a vertical axis turbine) and a dynamic pressure operated spring loaded flap valve to regulate air flow to a fairly constant level irrespective of the "suck" from the wind driven fan.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeFeb 6th 2012 edited
     
    Thing about using wind direction (not that I think it is really a simple solution for this), is that there is a very good correlation between wind speed, temperature and direction. But that is just getting flash and moving away from our beloved KISS.

    I think Venturi are great, I want one under my car.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeFeb 6th 2012 edited
     
    This
    http://aereco.com/int/uk/ventilation_menu.php
    which is used in
    http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=above%20how%20the%20building%20is%20split%20up&source=web&cd=3&sqi=2&ved=0CDAQFjAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.princes-foundation.org%2Fsites%2Fdefault%2Ffiles%2Fprinceshousebrochure.pdf&ei=SwUwT6GkOMTe8AOssZTjDg&usg=AFQjCNHX6AxKlIAIu4SBpWWi0mmnS1N_9w&sig2=-iilNhKUK33w5lbFtXs8Ew&cad=rja (sorry can't find a direct link)
    seems a more sophisticated system than Passivent. Including humidity-controlled inlets and outlets - including window-slot trickle vent ones http://aereco.com/int/uk/hsensitive.php.

    We tend to think that ventilation is reqd for both CO2 and humidity control (plus other pollutants) which are independent in occurence. However these guys say:
    "Along with carbon dioxide, respiration also produces a quantity of water vapour, which makes relative humidity a good indicator of the presence of carbon-dioxide in a domestic environment."
    So they're saying that humidity sensors are enough to control ventilation flow for all purposes.

    "As detector and driver of our humidity sensitive products, the V8 hygro-sensor exploits the natural tendency of certain materials to expand and contract with the rise and fall in airborne humidity. On this principle, the 8** polyamide bands of the V8 sensor activate one or more shutters, thus determining the passage of the air according to the ambient relative humidity rate. The greater the humidity within building, the more the shutters are opened. The V8 sensor is isolated from the entering airflow; it only measures the interior moisture content. Moreover, thanks to the thermal behaviour, the opening of the shutters is carried out independently of the external climatic conditions."

    The technology seems well developed http://aereco.com/int/uk/thermics.php

    This could change everything! Maybe a real alternative to MHRV.
    •  
      CommentAuthorDamonHD
    • CommentTimeFeb 6th 2012
     
    Unless it involves lots of complex and unreliable electronics, and/or is sold by salesmen that the double-glazing industry rejected as too sleazy, it can't possibly be of interest! B^>

    Rgds

    Damon
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeFeb 6th 2012
     
    Posted By: fostertomThis could change everything! Maybe a real alternative to MHRV.


    I can see how it might be an alternative to the “M” bit how does it affect the “HR” bit?
    • CommentAuthorcontadino
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2012
     
    A neighbour has implemented something similar in his extension. Effectively, it's a series of vertical pipes inside the walls that take air from the house up to miniature stacks on the roof. I couldn't comment on whether it works yet, as he hasn't moved into the extension, but I can understand what it's intended to do.

    I'll report back when the project is finished, but don't hold your breath - he's run out of money so it could be a year or two.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2012
     
    Posted By: Ed DaviesI can see how it might be an alternative to the “M” bit how does it affect the “HR” bit?
    That's correct - until someone invents great big lo-resistance heat exchangers that don't require fans for pressure head - a separate issue. Meanwhile, a client of mine has asthma/allergies that make intake ductwork (incl prob heat exchanger) a no-no because nasties do accumulate and breed in ductwork. Hence interest in Passivent (on the assumption that aforesaid nasties in the extract 'stack' ductwork don't work backwards into the habitable spaces). Also, same client is averse on principle to relying on electric fans for evermore.
  2.  
    Posted By: fostertomclient is averse on principle to relying on electric fans for evermore


    Amen to that, I'd rather have cold draughts - wear lambswool socks and cardies, although I appreciate some people might have a different view.

    Peter
    •  
      CommentAuthorDamonHD
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2012
     
    Even though I'm fanatical about energy efficiency and not having things run unnecessarily, I do not begrudge the less-than-2W trickle consumption of my MHRV and all the window-opening-door-shutting-humidity-begone dance it avoids while conserving considerable amounts of space heating.

    And if it breaks I can revert to opening a window next to it in my case.

    Rgds

    Damon
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2012
     
    Posted By: Peter ClarkAmen to that, I'd rather have cold draughts - wear lambswool socks and cardies,


    That's OK as long as you're using less fossil fuel for heating than would be consumed by the mechanical ventilation.
    • CommentAuthorPeter Clark
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2012 edited
     
    Posted By: Ed Davies
    That's OK as long as you're using less fossil fuel for heating than would be consumed by the mechanical ventilation.


    You mean less extra than would be consumed by ventilation?

    Could use wood?

    Peter
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2012
     
    Posted By: Peter ClarkYou mean less extra than would be consumed by ventilation?


    Yes, that would be a better way of putting it.

    Could use wood?


    It would be better if the wood was "sequestered" - in a house or something.
  3.  
    Posted By: Ed DaviesIt would be better if the wood was "sequestered" - in a house or something.


    Other things being equal , yes, but that would not solve the problem of heating and ventilation.

    But how much better would it be?

    And how much better would it be if we did not spend the carbon on manufacturing hundreds of millions of plastic ducts, heat exchangers, fans and the leccy generation and fuel oil to make it all possible?

    As opposed to hundreds of millions of thermal socks and cardies (local lambs wool of course)?

    I don't know, but I know what I like living with.

    houses are (or can be) aesthetic experiences as well as machines for living in.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeFeb 8th 2012
     
    Posted By: fostertoma client of mine has asthma/allergies that make intake ductwork (incl prob heat exchanger) a no-no because nasties do accumulate and breed in ductwork

    But there are no allergens etc outside in the street or in the fields? I'd have thought a pollen-filtered intake would be a yes-yes rather than a no-no.
   
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