General: External fittings on EWI

1 to 30 of 70

- CommentAuthorpmagowan
- CommentTimeJan 30th 2012
Sorry to start a new thread on this but I still don't have a full idea about how you attach gutter downpipes, external lights, cameras, trellis etc to EWI.

Surely there must be a common solution? For all the EWIers on here perhaps you will let us know your individual solutions.

My current best guess is;

for heavy loads (camera's etc) to use a backing plate of 10mm ply behind the mesh-reinforced render and recessed into the EPS. This would be fixed to the wall behind using 4 EWI fixings. The heavy load could then be attached as you would for a normal wall.

For light loads (downpipes?) just drill a hole in the EWI and squirty foam a rawl plug in.

For trellis (planting) have the trellis supporting it's own weight and secure the top as per heavy loads.

Questions;

Will this work? What size ply square would be needed? Is there not a standard way? Sto seem to have a cylindrical device to burry in the EPS but I can't get any info on it. Surely this is required in all EWI applications but is most problimatic in thick ones (200mm).

Sorry for bringing this up again.
- CommentAuthorfostertom
- CommentTimeJan 30th 2012
Drill a 40mm hole (not that easy thro the glassfibre mesh, which tends to catch and pull) thro the EWI, fit a length of plastic pipe into it, filled around and inside with squirty foam, big washer or ply plate capping that, at or below the finished surface, long screw/plug thro that, down middle of the filled plastic pipe, clamping all tight to the old wall faCE. Can be installed during EWI fitting if reqd position known.
- CommentAuthorpmagowan
- CommentTimeJan 30th 2012
Good idea Fostertom. Have you used this? How strong do you reckon it is? suitable for a cctv camera, external light etc?
- CommentAuthorJono
- CommentTimeApr 11th 2014
Hi,

Not really the right place to put this, however, I didnt want to start another thread on EWI. I'm about to embark on renovation/ extension project on a solid wall detached property.

I want to add EWI (most likely EPS) and wondered whether there would be a problem with installing a balance flue gas fire place with flue coming out through the insulation both in terms of thermal bridging / combustion risk.

I'm interested in any thoughts/ opinions.

Many thanks,

J
- CommentAuthorVictorianeco
- CommentTimeApr 12th 2014
What is the preferred method for securing downpipes and soiI pipes?

My EWI is now rendered and finished but no allowance was made by the installers during installation.
- CommentAuthorNick Parsons
- CommentTimeApr 12th 2014
Make holes to fit a piece of 32mm waste pipe the depth of the EWI. Foam in and within, and fix through.

''I want to add EWI (most likely EPS) and wondered whether there would be a problem with installing a balance flue gas fire place with flue coming out through the insulation both in terms of thermal bridging / combustion risk.''

Is it really B/F? Or fanned flue? A lot will depend on the heat recovery. Ask the fire manuf'r. Alternatively use a small amount of Rockwool EWI at that point. ( BTW, I wonder if acrylic renders are made to take heat?)
- CommentAuthoradi
- CommentTimeApr 12th 2014
For light weight fixings I used these:

http://www.fischer.de/en/Home/Product-Range/Product-Selector.aspx/cpage-productdetails/pcategory-1001001973/product-510971/usetemplate-productdetails/

Worked really well. Only issue I had was when I hit a mechanical fixing under the render holding my insulation to the wall, however that issue would apply to what ever method you used unless you knew exactly were you needed to place fixings before you render the wall.
- CommentAuthorVictorianeco
- CommentTimeApr 12th 2014
I just experimented using a normal downpipe screw into an occur of the ewi. Looks like it would hold, maybe just put a rawl plug in or a bit of expanding foam?
- CommentAuthorNick Parsons
- CommentTimeApr 13th 2014
''occur''

? Spell-check ''off-cut''?
- CommentAuthorJono
- CommentTimeApr 13th 2014
Thanks Nick,

I will have another look. The plan is to install something like this http://www.stovax.com/stoves/traditionalstoves/traditional_gas_stoves/huntingdon_30_gas_stove.aspx

I will see if I can find out from stovax what they recommend.

Good point about the render - will check it out.
Thanks again,

J
- CommentAuthorVictorianeco
- CommentTimeApr 13th 2014
Yes it was meant to say offcut. Predictive text :-P
- CommentAuthorFreddy
- CommentTimeMay 20th 2014
Has anyone got any thoughts/experience please on how to attach a traditional slated timber door canopy to a brick cavity wall covered with 100mm of EPS external wall insulation. Its not yet built but it will be around 1500mm long and 750mm deep, butted against an adjoining wall at one end and supported with timber 'gallow' bracket at the other end. I haven't calculated the finished weight yet but with a slated roof it will be quite substantial and I'm not sure that bolting the bracket to a wall through 100mm of rendered EPS will be adequate?
- CommentAuthorfostertom
- CommentTimeMay 20th 2014
Look at the substantial bracket/fixing methods sold for mounting TV dishes. Whatever, it's going to be a big thermal bridge. Can't it be effectively freestanding, posts to ground?
- CommentAuthorn2e4ewi
- CommentTimeMay 20th 2014
Hello all, in reply to the above late in 2012 I was asked to resolve the issue with fitting back satellite dishes and other items to EWI whilst ensuring warranty was maintained and meeting local aerial and satellite rules, I invented a product got it approved around the world and a patent protect in place, if you would like details please ask I can be emailed at n2e4ewi@gmail.com or found on LinkedIn Peter White ACIOB
- CommentAuthorn2e4ewi
- CommentTimeMay 20th 2014
Freddy, one of the well known EWI companies has asked us if our product can be used to hold balcony railings and gate posts, I am sure the same could be used for your requirement, I am think dependant on weight our stainless steel brackets could be fitted with 10mm studs in a line then the wall plate fitted over held in place with nuts. Let me know and I can draw a quick picture of what I am thinking take care Peter, this is the first time in this can you tell me do I get updates via email or am I to keep logging in thanks again
- CommentAuthorn2e4ewi
- CommentTimeMay 20th 2014
Adi, you make a good point we have looked at this issue we found a concern with blindly drilling and hitting the edge of the brick or cement line, our product can be fitted prior to the Ewi or fitted after with elongated holes you have the option to move it about to find an idea location.
- CommentAuthorfostertom
- CommentTimeMay 21st 2014
It was you I had in mind, Peter - LinkedIn works!

What do you say about
Posted By: fostertommethods sold for mounting TV dishes. Whatever, it's going to be a big thermal bridge
you have substantial steelwork bolted to wall and running right out through the EWI.
- CommentAuthorjamesingram
- CommentTimeMay 21st 2014
For light weight fixings a standard hole and plug filled with foam or caulk , silcon works fine. Good to make sure its water tight to stop ingress behind thin coat render.
- CommentAuthorn2e4ewi
- CommentTimeMay 21st 2014
Tom, I am with you on the LinkedIn thing!!. We looked at the thermal bridge issue and tested different materials keeping in mind the requirements of aerial installers and EWI suppliers we settled on Galvanised main arm and the box section stainless steel, you may have seen the product detail which shows the box section sold with industry standard insulation and weather seal, this together with a Thermal block only 2mm thick also sold as part of the product slices many of the issues, these minor elements we hope have aided us in gaining approval from many suppliers of system and maybe why we are finalist in the upcoming Eco and green deal awards take care Peter
- CommentAuthorn2e4ewi
- CommentTimeMay 21st 2014
James, I have seen it this way for me I have concerns as a sparks I have to adhere to to electrical regs (IEE) this says any joint has to be reachable, in the rare cases where cable can be pulled the 100mm required fine but you will find this unlikely with a switch attached to the other end, keep in mind that white insulation stuff has a chemical reaction to PVC cable, I spent a little time with an enabling company and seeing them putting in a wooden block with a 25mm hole with the cable joint pushed in (that's just waiting for a fire) bad joint sparks, dry wood. We do have a product but is it cost affective putting the cost aside or re wiring back to within dwelling it's maybe the better option
- CommentAuthorFreddy
- CommentTimeMay 23rd 2014
Peter - I will contact you via LinkedIn and then happy to post back here with a proposed solution for benefit of others.
Fostertom - yes it would be more sensible to add posts and thereby make the door canopy effectively free standing but other work on the house means that local planning will not allow an enclosed porch and, apparently a post would contravene that.
- CommentAuthorfostertom
- CommentTimeMay 23rd 2014
If it's to be on a gallows bracket, you cd extend the vertical down to ground (tight against the EWI) to take the vertical weight; it would then want to fall outward but then all you have to do is arrange a horizontal tie to prevent that, back thro the EWI to wall.
- CommentAuthorFreddy
- CommentTimeMay 23rd 2014
Thanks, yes, that sounds sensible. I extend the vertical down and a little way into the ground and tight against the EWI that would leave only the horizontal support needing to be tied back into the wall.
- CommentAuthorn2e4ewi
- CommentTimeMay 25th 2014
Freddy, be careful with fitting verticals direct to EWI if they going to be wood this is been noted by warranty and insurances companies as a major issue in damaging the EWI the details I sent are the same product for our gate post so limit the risk to EWI. I would only take the vertical down as far as required to support the angled brace
- CommentAuthorPeter_in_Hungary
- CommentTimeMay 25th 2014 edited
.
- CommentAuthorPeter_in_Hungary
- CommentTimeMay 25th 2014
Posted By: n2e4ewiFreddy, be careful with fitting verticals direct to EWI if they going to be wood this is been noted by warranty and insurances companies as a major issue in damaging the EWI the details I sent are the same product for our gate post so limit the risk to EWI. I would only take the vertical down as far as required to support the angled brace

Why?
I would have thought (as presumable does fostertom) that taking the vertical down to ground level would relieve any vertical stress on the fixings (and therefore the EWI) leaving the fixings just to hold the structure against the EWI which would be a turning force with the ground level as the turning point. The fixings then only have to hold against the pull out force applied by the turning motion and the EWI is just acting as a spacer. In this scenario the weight is carried by the ground and there is no downward force on the fixings (and therefore a risk of bending the fixings and crushing the EWI) which otherwise there would be if the verticals stop short of the ground
- CommentAuthorn2e4ewi
- CommentTimeMay 26th 2014
P-I-H, I see your point but a mention about coloums in a prior post. I am unsure if the local inspectors would allow this also if it possible then always better to go to ground.
- CommentAuthorShevek
- CommentTimeJul 17th 2014 edited
Posted By: fostertomDrill a 40mm hole (not that easy thro the glassfibre mesh, which tends to catch and pull) thro the EWI, fit a length of plastic pipe into it, filled around and inside with squirty foam, big washer or ply plate capping that, at or below the finished surface, long screw/plug thro that, down middle of the filled plastic pipe, clamping all tight to the old wall faCE. Can be installed during EWI fitting if reqd position known.

How do you drill a 40 mm hole through 250 mm of EPS? Use a hole saw and dig it out a bit at a time?

And what sort of screws could we use? Where do you get 300 mm long masonry screws from?

Will a top coat of acrylic render stick to a stainless or galv washer? Found these:
http://www.accuscrews.co.uk/penny-washers/14693-HYW-M6-40-A4.html

And what about simply embedding some plywood into the EPS (say 150 mm square to spread the load), beneath the top and base coat, and screw fixing through the render to it?

And one more idea: we have quite a bit of 300 kPa EPS. Could we substitute that where we're fixing things and then use spiral screws for fixing points?

(I'm fixing downpipes, garden taps, lights and a gas meter + box)
- CommentAuthorfostertom
- CommentTimeJul 18th 2014
Posted By: Shevekwhat about simply embedding some plywood into the EPS (say 150 mm square to spread the load), beneath the top coat and base coat, and screw fixing through the render to it?
WUFI says that outer zone of the EPS, just behind the render, will spend most of the winter saturated. This is not because of liquid water penetration - EWI acrylic render is waterproof - but due to water vapour condensing - the render is vapour-open. Which allows it to dry out again when the sun shines.
- CommentAuthorfostertom
- CommentTimeJul 18th 2014 edited
The Parex rep suggested the spiral screws instead of the much more laborious filled tube method. We're about to try it out - using galv pipes, despite Peter in Hungary saying don't, in http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/forum114/comments.php?DiscussionID=11050&page=1#Item_3 .

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General: External fittings on EWI