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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeNov 16th 2007
     
    Moss on roofs seems to be becoming a bigger and bigger problem. Is it only me that has noticed this and why is it -- more CO2 in the atmosphere? :wink:

    It seems to form on the more porous types of tiles -- granular concrete seemingly being the worse effected.

    Not a problem on slate seemingly.

    The additional maintenance required and the blockages of gutters and valleys caused give rise for concern as well as premature decay of the tiles themselves.

    Do we think granular concrete tiles are a bad idea?
    • CommentAuthordavid
    • CommentTimeNov 16th 2007
     
    There are melon sized moss hemispheres on our slate roofs in N. Wales. We've always had them.
    When they fall off in a storm they remind us of hedgehogs which we don't have.
    You can stop them growing by laying a copper wire along both sides of the roof across the pitch and a little way down from the ridge.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeNov 16th 2007
     
    What pitch is the roof and is it real welsh slate?
    • CommentAuthorbiffvernon
    • CommentTimeNov 17th 2007
     
    Problem? What problem? Mossy roofs look nice.
  1.  
    Moss doesn't like copper. A few copper wires arranged appropriately on your roof so that rain washes the copper down will help keep the moss in check. You can see this effect where overhead electricity mains cables (usually bare copper) cross over buildings.

    T
  2.  
    So any roof with copper crampions will not allow moss to grow then?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeNov 17th 2007
     
    Moss is a problem it will cause backing up and leaking/wetting of support timbers, premature decay by entrapping moisture that then freezes as well as blocking of rainwater goods and the problems that then result.
    • CommentAuthorBluemoon
    • CommentTimeNov 17th 2007 edited
     
    I too have moss, worse on north face of roof, picture here:- http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v378/Pontrhydfendigaid/slateroof.jpg
    Roof is about 21 years old, of AC slates, fastened with galv nails and the copper rivets.
    • CommentAuthorbiffvernon
    • CommentTimeNov 18th 2007
     
    Some would say it's better on the north side. You'll need to give it a good few years yet to get it properly established :)
    •  
      CommentAuthorrichy
    • CommentTimeNov 18th 2007
     
    All that moss must be good insulatiion! Next best thing to a turf roof!
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeNov 18th 2007
     
    Bluemoon, you have copper rivets and moss growing.

    Richy, If the moss gets wet and then the water evaporates you could even have a significant cooling effect -- great in summer but exactly what you dont want during the winter months. The insulating effect of the moss is very likely useless as there is ventilation between it and your insulation isnt there.
  3.  
    It appears that there is a commercial product available that use copper to "help keep moss in check":
    http://www.copperridge.co.uk/
    Articles that suggest using copper to hinder moss and algae growth:
    http://www.askthebuilder.com/539-Removing-Moss-and-Algae-From-Roofs.shtml
    http://www.doityourself.com/stry/mossonroof
    http://www.extension.umn.edu/info-u/household/BK650.html

    There are plenty more easily found via Google. I would have thought it obvious to anyone that you would require a certain surface area of copper in order to wash the required (though tiny) amount of copper sulphate down your roof in order to inhibit moss growth to any significant degree.

    T
    • CommentAuthordavid
    • CommentTimeNov 18th 2007
     
    Is there a Welsh slate which is not ,"real"?
    Pitch is about 35deg.
    More moss on S.W. and West facing roofs.
    It either gows on slates which are getting a bit soft from age or it softens the slates it grows on.
    Runoff from lead flashings around chimneys etc. also stops it growing.
    • CommentAuthorBluemoon
    • CommentTimeNov 18th 2007 edited
     
    My thanks to tom.harrigan. I've learned a lot. As I have 4 Veluxes on the north face, I can fit a strand of bare copper wire between them to see if it's enough.
    • CommentAuthorfuncrusher
    • CommentTimeNov 19th 2007
     
    Run-off from mossy rooves/roofs is very acidic, and even attacks lead.
    • CommentAuthorBowman
    • CommentTimeNov 22nd 2007
     
    Tony, if the problem you see is more severe on concrete roofs, is it possible that it is on older roofs where the concrete has become more porous with age? We used 5000 reclaimed Marley's on our last project and there was very noticeable difference compared to the brand new ridge tiles. If a concrete roof has a life of 50 to 75 years anything built in the 50's or 60's is going to be some way towards the end of its life.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeNov 22nd 2007
     
    Quite a few of the roofs I am thinking of are arround only twenty to twenty five years old.
    • CommentAuthorJohn P
    • CommentTimeDec 2nd 2007
     
    I have old sheds with cement fibre roofs and this copper wire souds a good idea. How long will a 2mm single strand last? This seems readily available but will it start breaking after 10yrs.....the sheds are 60M long and putting wires up once in a lifetime is plenty!
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJan 10th 2008
     
    Why dont tiles contain a little copper to desuade the moss from growing?
    •  
      CommentAuthorecoworrier
    • CommentTimeFeb 28th 2008
     
    So what size copper wire do we think would be needed?
    2mm seems to be the largest readily available.

    The copper ridge has a huge surface area in comparison, is it OTT?
    I can't see how you could fit it on an old ridge without having to replace the ridge tile that is.

    Would it work on thatch do you think?
    Thanks in advance for your thoughts.:smile:
    • CommentAuthorfuncrusher
    • CommentTimeFeb 28th 2008
     
    I once lived in a thatched house. Spraying copper sulphate was the recommended treatment for preventing moss which destroys thatch. I should think a copper ridge would do the same, but might look a little odd.
    • CommentAuthorhowdytom
    • CommentTimeFeb 29th 2008
     
    I would doubt that water that runs of the ridge on a thatched roof, could possibly reach the upper surface of the lower thatch area. Get an old copper water cylinder remove the top, block the holes, fill it with rain water, chuck in some copper scraps and after a month or two occasionally spray that on your dry roof. Should have the same effect.

    Tony, I stripped old household wiring and used that over 10 years ago, its still there, haven't measured its current thickness but it looks visibly similar in size to 2.5 wire.... still.

    tom
    • CommentAuthorskywalker
    • CommentTimeFeb 29th 2008
     
    Just so you know (before you wipe them out!)

    On thatched roofs galvanised wire & fire retardants are also phytotoxic. This leaves us with just a few common species likely to be encountered these days:

    Bryum argentum, B.capillare, Campylopus introflexus, Ceratodon purpureus (often the only one), Dicranoweisia cirrata, Syntrichia intermedia & S. ruralis, Pohlia nutans (north side of Horsey Church in Norfolk). Bryum pallescens is one of the few mosses tolerant of zinc and can be seen on chikenwired thatch.

    Less common stuff such as Syntrichia virescens & Leptodontium flexifolium (the 'thatched roof moss' of the netherlands) may be encountered on older/less protected thatch. Only the really lucky thatch owner will have the UK's 'thatch moss', the rather rare red listed Leptodontium gemmascens. This little cracker grows mostly in the drip zone and is particularly prevalent on the Exmoor NT estate but it is found elswhere and all thatches should be surveyed prior to considering a restoration programme. Where this moss is found good practice would be to replace thatch in stages to maintain an age diversity of thatch where possible replacing only the most decayed sections of thatch.

    Tiled and slated roofs are also interesting and can throw up oddities/rarities from time to time.
    There is a difference between which species you may find on the north or south facing roof. Grimia sp. can thrive on south facing roofs (it's those dew trapping hair points) and can survive temperatures of 80c when dessicated. Commonly Bryum capillare, Ceratodon purpureus and Grimmia pulvinata are seen on slate & On red clay and natural stone they are joined by Syntrica intermedia and S. ruralis. You may also encouter the alien Campylopus introflexus. In more polluted areas Ceratodon purpureus and Dicranoweisia cirrata are usually around (the latter correlated with the increase in acidification over the last 150 years). Roofs support a number of mosses which are normally recorded from montane habitats or which may have a more northern distribution in natural circumstances. So Grimmia laevigata is now recorded in Sussex from coastal locations, G. ovalis (red list) West Sussex and the list goes on ( I sense the attention of the audience may be wavering).

    Asbestos roofs are also a particular haven for mosses due to the high pH buffering the effects of acidification and can support local rarities.

    Anyway

    Bryophyte of the month: http://rbg-web2.rbge.org.uk/bbs/Resources/gallery.htm

    Scroll down for previous months.

    Stop laughing.

    S.
    • CommentAuthorskywalker
    • CommentTimeFeb 29th 2008
     
    In the Cotswolds roof tiles were laid on a bed of moss for insulation with moss driven into the tile joints with a special tool for waterproofing.
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