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    • CommentAuthorRobinB
    • CommentTimeJul 10th 2012 edited
     
    Janetta,
    You need near passivhaus levels of insulation and airtightness to deliver enough heat via an MVHR system so as others have said it's unlikely to work for you.
    Just to mention it's worth getting your radon levels measured, especially if/when you increase airtighness.
    • CommentAuthorJanetta
    • CommentTimeJul 10th 2012
     
    Thanks SteamyTea -

    yes it should have said 2011 later on - well spotted.

    Ahh- caught us out there about the night time usage! We know we are not using it much. I did run the washing machine etc at night but stopped when we got the dogs (woke them up). However - i'm sure we could sort something out and start using them again. I used to heat the water for 1 hour overnight but we ended up setting it for 1/2 hour at night then 1/2 hour at about 5pm - I could put this back to how it was. 2 showers take water from the tank, attic room shower = electric.

    We knew we would be getting rid of the convectors - and didn't put in temporary storage heaters because we thought heat pump technology and (possibly a buffer tank to make good use of night-time tariff) was probably the best way forward plus we wanted a bit of controlled ventilation ... but time has moved on and we've paid over the odds for our level of heat in that time. I think storage heat technology has advanced just recently - not just on or off. My husband says - "lets just swap to storage heaters and have done with it" - perhaps he is right. We can't swap to another electricity provider - can only get via Jersey Electric Company (some from France, some generated locally).
    • CommentAuthorRobinB
    • CommentTimeJul 10th 2012
     
    Posted By: JanettaWe can't swap to another electricity provider - can only get via Jersey Electric Company (some from France, some generated locally).


    Any chance of PV?
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeJul 10th 2012
     
    I have just about halved my space heating by improving insulation and airtightness (checked for Radon when bought the place as on granite, though house is 1987 vintage). One thing I do notice about storage heaters/water heating is that the first hour (11PM to Midnight) everything comes on as it is thermally depleted, it then goes back to normal rate for an hour (Midnight till 1AM). Comes on again at 1AM for a bit, then often 'tops itself up' later on.
    Thing is that I am asleep or do not need the first hour of heating (not got the water up to temp anyway), so looking into isolating the heaters and water until about 3 AM, so that it only recharges the stores for a maximum of 4 hours (will possibly play around with the timings).
    I did find that changing the convection heaters to fan heaters for that 'little boost' made a huge difference, though sometimes forget to turn them off when out if they are not running at the time. Also found that keeping all the internal doors open spreads the heat about nicely. Though the design (a crap design really) of the house lends itself to that.
    Have you considered Solar Thermal and a very well insulated cylinder for your DHW?
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeJul 10th 2012
     
    Posted By: Janettawhen we got the dogs (woke them up)

    http://www.newscientist.com/article/mg20427311.600-how-green-is-your-pet.html
    :wink:
    • CommentAuthorJanetta
    • CommentTimeJul 11th 2012
     
    SteamyTea - great article. I'll get them on a treadmill to generate some electric & also attempt to harness the copious amount of methane.

    Thanks Paul and GaryB - an 'air conditioning' system to supply heat or an air source heat pump seem to be the options - and some minor form of MVHR but not whole house MVHR.

    A guy came to the house yesterday - i had asked about MVHR & Exhaust heat pumps - he took one look and said "not suitable" (which I knew by then because of these posts-thanks everone!). Seemed to know his stuff. Essentially - he thought we needed a 14kW air-source heat pump. He's coming up with figures for two different systems. One system he is familiar with (Nibe air-source) another I asked him to check (New Panasonic which seems to run higher water temperatures like the Co2 Sanyo which has been discontinued).

    This just leaves the possibility of an air-conditioning system - which do you think would be best for us in terms of comfort, short-term and long-term costs (1) air-conditioning (can run ducts ok I think) or (2) air-source heat pump (have room for the main units and can fit radiators and associated pipework)?
    •  
      CommentAuthorDamonHD
    • CommentTimeJul 12th 2012
     
    Single-room MHRV rather than extractors in wet rooms may remain a good thing to do, IMHO.

    Rgds

    Damon
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeJul 12th 2012
     
    Are those ASHP on the MCS list?
    • CommentAuthorJanetta
    • CommentTimeJul 12th 2012
     
    Sorry SteamyTea - I don't know those ASHPs are on MCS list. We can't take part in the scheme, 'cos we are in Jerset. There isn't an equivalent scheme in Jersey. The Panasonic seems to very new - Listed but no prices yet at the aircon warehouse.

    I agree DamonHD - about Single-room MHRV or de-centralised (like Paul Ventos) rather than extractors.

    Forgot to say - unlikely we can have solar tubes or PV - as the south roof is the front of the house seen from the road. We could ask the heritage bods.
    • CommentAuthorGaryB
    • CommentTimeJul 12th 2012 edited
     
    Janetta:

    There are a number of other considerations which should be taken into account when selecting a heat pump.

    1. All nominal ASHP COPs are quoted at 7 deg C outside, which correlates to the average winter temperature in most of the UK. COPs at 0 deg C are typically 20-25% worse and at -7 deg C are typically 30-35% worse.

    2. The ASHP COPs are quoted at a nominal flow temperature of 35 deg C, which only works with underfloor heating or Smartrads (fan assisted heaters specifically designed to run at low temps). Flow temperatures of 45 deg C will result in COPs 20-25% worse and it is well nigh impossible to find information on COPs at higher temperatures (they are much lower) - you have to ask the manufacturer's technical bods for this information. Once the COP drops to 2.0 or less it is cheaper to use oil. BTW, in natural gas areas, unless you can achieve a COP better than 3.2, gas is normally cheaper per kWh.

    3. The air-to-air system (ducted AC) distributes low temperature air (approx 35 deg C) and is therefore only affected by outside air temperatures.

    4. The effects of RHI (if and when implemented) should be taken into account. Note that the air-to-air system will not qualify for RHI and this will affect future running costs and paybacks.

    5. All AS heat pumps will reverse cycle to defrost and will remove heat from the buffer vessel. Some systems will maintain the heat output during defrost by using an immersion heater - avoid these as they cost a lost more to run.

    6. Keep hot water and space heating systems separate, unless a dual compressor ASHP designed to deliver hot water is used. I personally favour solar thermal plus back-up heating. In winter it is cheaper to run an ASHP at 45 deg C and top up using an immersion heater than to run the system at 55-60 deg C to heat water.

    For my own house I have an ASHP system on order and will be running it at a maximum flow temperature of 45 deg C through an existing radiator system. The system will also be weather compensated so that the flow temperature is less in milder weather, improving efficiency and COP. To achieve this low flow temperature, I have installed additional insulation and an extra rad in the Living Room.

    My hot water is on a separate system with solar - this provides all hot water from mid March to mid October. I have oil / log burner available for top-up in winter.
    • CommentAuthorRobinB
    • CommentTimeJul 12th 2012
     
    Posted By: GaryBIn winter it is cheaper to run an ASHP at 45 deg C and top up using an immersion heater than to run the system at 55-60 deg C to heat water.


    Is this a generally accepted view?
    • CommentAuthorGaryB
    • CommentTimeJul 12th 2012
     
    Probably not generally accepted, but still true!
    • CommentAuthorRobinB
    • CommentTimeJul 12th 2012
     
    thanks!
    • CommentAuthorGaryB
    • CommentTimeJul 12th 2012 edited
     
    To heat cylinder from 10 deg C inlet to 60 deg C:

    Delta T overall = 50 K
    Heating to 45 deg C by ASHP @ 3.2 COP is 35/50 = 70% of the heating
    Balance of 30% heating is via immersion @ COP of 1
    Average COP = (0.7 x 3.2) + (0.3 x 1.0) = 2.54

    If anyone can produce evidence of an ASHP which can produce 60+ deg C hot water at a COP of 2.54 or better with a nominal external ambient of 7 deg C, I will stand corrected :wink:
    •  
      CommentAuthorDamonHD
    • CommentTimeJul 12th 2012
     
    I would have thought that the R744 / ECO-CUTE models would be in that territory...

    Rgds

    Damon
    • CommentAuthorGaryB
    • CommentTimeJul 12th 2012
     
    I saw an Eco Cute heat pump in the laboratory in the Hitachi Europe factory 3 weeks ago and it was still under development for the UK climate.

    Are there any units currently available using ambient air in the UK?
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeJul 12th 2012
     
    I run my hot water up to 50°C, still alive.
    Got to shift a lot of air at 7°C to heat a little water.
    • CommentAuthormike7
    • CommentTimeJul 12th 2012
     
    Hi Gary

    Good point to raise, but I think your calculation is not correct.

    Suppose 1 kWh directly heating some water gets it from 10 to 60 degC.

    Heat a similar quantity to 45C with a COP of 3.2 willl use 0.7/ 3.2 = .218 kWh
    Heating it the rest of the way directly uses 0.3 x 1.0 = .300 kWh

    So the total consumption is .518 kWh, compared with the original 1 kWh, and the overall COP is thus 1/ 0.518, or 1.93.

    I've been wondering about this issue for my air to air HP, but not for temps as high as 60C. What we'd like to know from the manufacturers is what the marginal COP is for each increment of temperature.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeJul 12th 2012
     
    This is where the entropy comes in. You need that 1kW (or whatever you need) to be at least the final temperature.
    You can have as much energy as you like, but if it just heats to say 30°C. not going to be very useful.
    • CommentAuthorGaryB
    • CommentTimeJul 12th 2012 edited
     
    Mike7:

    Just checked the calcs again and your version is correct. :shamed:

    Apologies!

    However, the immersion will be 100% efficient whereas the higher heat losses in the primary circuit have to be taken into account. Also the immersion may only heat the top of the cylinder depending on location / type. A Willis or side-arm immersion will only heat a small volume of water.

    Personally, I will be setting mine at a lower temperature and sterilising the cylinder once a week in winter using the log boiler.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeJul 12th 2012
     
    Both GaryB's and mike7's calculations looked right to me at first and it took me a while to work out what the problem was. Came back to post and I see GaryB's worked it out but it might be worth explaining:

    Posted By: GaryBAverage COP = (0.7 x 3.2) + (0.3 x 1.0) = 2.54

    The mistake is taking the temperature-range weighted average of the COPs like this. You can average the energy expenditure for each temperature range in this way but not the COPs as they are inversely proportional to the energies. 1/C₁ + 1/C₂ != 1/(C₁ + C₂).
    • CommentAuthorGreenPaddy
    • CommentTimeJul 12th 2012
     
    Janetta,

    just something to consider...looks like you're spending £500/year on electricity. I assume (perhaps wrongly) this covers all usage - heating/hot water/lights/cooking/power...

    Let's guess at £250 being for your heating. If you did really well, you might cut that cost in half, so saving £125/year. Just consider what the payback will be against any system you purchase/install against that £125 saving. In other words, if you want better than a 20 year pay back, don't spend more than £2500 on the system. Doubt anything above will be less than £2500.

    Solar must be something to consider where you live (can't remember what the sun looks like, but I think it used to be over head where the rain now comes from). If you were considering re-working your hot water system anyway, then solar thermal could be worth doing. Again looks like savings might be in the £100 to £200 region per year, so need to be wary of cost versus payback - though you might consider a longer payback, due to the psycological payback of harvesting free solar energy??
  1.  

    If anyone can produce evidence of an ASHP which can produce 60+ deg C hot water at a COP of 2.54 or better with a nominal external ambient of 7 deg C


    I hesitate to dive in as Gary posts a lot of sense about ASHPs. But here goes :-)

    my Daikin Altherma HT is a 2 stage heat pump, so runs happily at 80 degc, drop-in replacement for oil boiler. real world cop has been 2.5 - 2.7 measured in good scottish climate. I posted about it back on about pg 2 of this thread. Mcs approved, I got Rhpp.
    • CommentAuthorGaryB
    • CommentTimeJul 13th 2012
     
    WillinAberdeen:

    Firstly, thanks for posting your actual COP performance - we need more of this on ASHPs! Did you measure this using a heat meter + electric meter and what average temperature did you run the system at?

    My earlier post recommended keeping DHW and space heating separate for efficiency unless a 2 stage ASHP (such as your Altherma HT) was used.

    Too many single stage monobloc systems are being run at high temperatures for DHW purposes without an understanding of what this does to the COP and running costs. I blame the sales & marketing people who present facts in the brochures / sales patter, such as:

    'Flow temperatures up to 60 deg C'
    'Heat output of 11 kW'
    'COP of 4.10'

    (actual statements from ASHP brochures)

    all in close proximity, without clarifying that some of these are mutually exclusive. The small print usually confirms that the figures are for 35 deg C flow and at 7 deg C ambient. No information is provided on real world performance.

    To be fair, some of the manufacturers of the HT equipment do state the performance and COP at 60 deg C in the brochures and these normally show a COP figure of around 2.5. These are for units specially designed to operate at these temperatures, standard monobloc ASHP units will be worse. Also, these are based on laboratory testing and are not 'real world' figures inclusive of defrost cycles and primary circuit losses in the pipework to the cylinder.

    I see the Altherma HT brochure appears to claim a COP of 2.9 to 3.1 in HT mode, depending on model size, and a seasonal COP of 3.2. This is higher than I was expecting - I thought the limit for HT units was around 2.5 but I note that your experience as an informed user doesn't quite match the Daikin figures!

    Regards, Gary
  2.  
    Hi,
    Posted By: SteamyTeaThis is where the entropy comes in. You need that 1kW (or whatever you need) to be at least the final temperature.
    You can have as much energy as you like, but if it just heats to say 30°C. not going to be very useful.


    It really depends what you want to do with it - one lit oe less @ 100 deg or 20+ lit @ 25 deg depends if you want to make a cuppa or wash the dog.

    Beacuse there is potentially such a huge difference in DHW requirements (quite high) and space heat requirements (quite low) I favour splitting them entirely.

    Cheers
    Mike up North
    •  
      CommentAuthorDamonHD
    • CommentTimeJul 13th 2012
     
    But isn't that going to double the costs and the space requirements (and make a complete CH/DHW ASHP system to your liking impossible to get within the new GPDO)?

    Rgds

    Damon
    • CommentAuthorGaryB
    • CommentTimeJul 13th 2012
     
    Damon

    You are absolutely right about the costs, but how many of the forum members have multiple systems in the pursuit of the lowest possible energy and CO2 consumption (myself included with 3!)? :wink:

    Capital cost is sometimes secondary to doing the right thing...
    •  
      CommentAuthorDamonHD
    • CommentTimeJul 13th 2012
     
    Sure, though that cost thing cuts out much of the possible benefit to the population? But even the nuisance factor of the extra heat exchangers (I really don't have the space for example) and planning permission is quite daunting IMHO...

    So for most of us a good compromise with one system is likely to be best.

    Rgds

    Damon
  3.  
    Hi,

    In terms of separate systems I was generalising across all form of heat& DH water not specifically HP's (air or otherwise). The performance required is conflicting so much of the complexity and hence expense goes into the concept of one box to do two jobs.
    How about an HP for constant low level (UFH or wall / ceiling) heating in a consistently cold(ish) climate within a very tight building envelop and DHW from a modern gas instant (DHW only) on demand water heater.
    These exist separately and never the twain shall meet.
    Additional complexity comes not just from the technology itself but introducing other sources such as solar thermal. In the above case this would have to be in the form of a pre heat – great as gas heat is very easy and quick to modulate in response to changing incoming temps, and again this sits nicely within its box with a clear boundary and a clear interface to the next system, it might for some of the year not even see the gas heat – just pass through. So that’s all fine.
    Adding say the ST or a wood burner WB to the space heating starts to get tricky so rather than jump straight in with another thermal store proposal it might be better to leave the HP on base load and use the WB as a straight direct heat to the space (of course if on min heating requirements the WB is questionable in the first place – so could feed the DHW).
    So all of these need to be complementary but don’t necessarily need to be integrated into the same box.


    Cheers Mike up North
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeJul 13th 2012 edited
     
    I like the controllability of separate systems, seems to work for me (with 3).
    Have we fallen into the trap of 'one size fits all' rather than look at what really needs to be achieved.

    If we took a 'normal' house we could split up the systems needed and see which each technology can deliver and the associated pros and cons.

    So a house needs:
    Lighting
    Heating
    Ventilation
    Fresh Water
    Waste Water
    Hot Water
    Electricity
    Security
    Entertainment
    Maintenance
    Refrigeration
    Cooking

    Now is is better to combine all those into one integrated package or treat them as stand alone entities?
   
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